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finally found a group a console sorround

this week I waned to get the back seat sorted. I'm not upset with how it is at the moment, but there is definitely room for improvement. that can wait for another day. the back seat now matches the vr clubby front seats. I think its heaps better than the brown vl seat that I still had in there.

anything that looks like a walky, should sound like one too

I'd like to see inside and under the bonnet. do you have more details about it?

its a hard decision, my parents live 150 k's away and work is 30, so if I drive the vl, then its mostly highway and really chews the fuel, hence 3.08's would be good. maybe after I get a tighter billet shifter changing up so quickly wont be such a bother, you see the getrags stick is very...

that's the second time today I've seen that pic... :) how are you finding the new gears? I'm considering going to 3.08 for better fuel economy, and I find that 1st revs out too quick with the 3.45's and that second and third are more fun. I'd prefer to get a little more out of first, and have...

I see what you meant about going through the gears quickly with the 3.45's did you source a v8 tacho dash? I hooked up the tacho from the 6cyl dash and i'd like to see if there is a divide by 1.33 circuit I can get to feed in 6 pulses per rpm rather than 8 so that the tacho reads right.

almost.. the master cylinder started leaking at the warning light switch. so I'm in the market for a replacement master cylinder. it only drips a little on full brake and the brakes don't feel affected so its a little disappointing.

I got it registered yesterday. I couldn't use the GMC-666 plates as they are owned by my brother. I might have to transfer them over. I like them better than what I was given.

Afaik I can use a blue wire from the ecu that goes to the air con fan.

au thermos went in tonight. it sounds heaps better without the clutch fan.

Get the hinges from a vr/vs and bolt them to the guard where one of the bolts are. I used ball joints from the tail gate of a gen 1 (vb - vl) wagon on my bonnet and my struts are from a the back of a gen 1 wagon also

where did you get the heat shielding for your brake lines from?

running in the drive way http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxtiQRCGicE edit: fixed link

I went with grey and yellow

the struts are out getting new bearing plates on them, while they are apart, I want to clean the struts and repaint them and the springs. I can't afford new springs or shocks at the moment but that cant stop what I have from looking better. Any ideas on colour. I'm thinking yellow or red...

Only about 500 pa which is about the same as that we Pay for the vy and ve I think

sub has also been hooked up, it was always with the car but needed some rca cables. i'm not a fan of the doof doof, but TOOL will sound much better now. if only they would hurry up with the next album...

well its insured for an agreed value close to $20,000 so if the worst happens I can pick up another pre loved replica from ebay. now I just need to arrange a day at home to get the mobile mod plate dude to come around and certify it.

thanks, I've spoken to the engineer about a mod plate and it will be about $300 for seats, brakes, gear box engine mods just a couple of gremlins in the wiring for one tail light, washer motor and wipers and it should be ready for rego, but in terms of complete... well there will always be...

moved the fuel lines right back against the firewall today. I wasn't happy with how far back they were until now. A new manifold gasket is doing its job properly and no steam is coming out the exhaust. Vdo speedo is working but I'm not sure how well its calibrated. I have...

that's awesome news. I've got a heap of fuel hose I can use to repair that

currently working through a fuel problem. the high pressure pump sucks air. this was after putting about 10 litres in the tank. if the opportunity presents itself, i'll take the sender and low pressure unit out today to inspect it and see if there is a split hose or something.

I still have the 3.45:1 ratio from the 6 too, I'm expecting it to launch pretty quickly, and to have to go through the gears faster than normal, but i'm hoping 5th will be good enough for some decent economy on the highway. I travel 60km/day to and from work, most of which is on the motorways...

what ratio do you have and what are you planning to put in?

I'll be keen to see what NRMA (my current insurer) do for me. I'll want an agreed value of $20k because I've spent about that much on it, and it'll cost that mush to buy a replacement replica (or late model second hand car) if the worst happens. I'm 32 with only 1 glass repair claim when someone...

how did you go with insurance, I suppose when you got to the modifications question it took a while to answer.

mine is a vp ecu, but the ecu requires a speed signal to come into it so that it doesn't run too rich. pins 6,7 & 8 on the back of the cluster put out 2 pulses per rotation, and I would think that you need to run a wire from one of those pins to the brown wire with a yellow trace to tell the ecu...

I spoke to Pat at v6conversions today about hooking up my electronic speedo. we need to run a speed signal to the ecu which should be 2 pulses per rotation of the tailshaft (I think) this would go to the brown wire with a yellow trace form the ecu which I think is on the white plug that we ran...

i found the right vss connector to fit my reverse switch today and I wired it up tonight. I also found the right connector for the speed sensor, so now I should be able to wire that up to the ratio box, ecu and speedo.

ive got a few bits and pieces to get done. I've found a connector for the reverse switch at Mal Woods and that should be here early next week. getting it in will probably have its own challenges also since there isn't much space in the trans tunnel....

are we there yet?

wow, that looks good

I read somewhere that someone used molex connectors. I have a male and female connector so I'll see what I can do with them. I should have sorted this put before putting the box in because I can't see inside the socket now

I know which wires from the loon need to run to the box, I just need a good connector to plug into the getrag box

my clutch problem is solved. the end of the connecting rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder is adjustable. I extended it a few turns and now my friction point is at a sensible point above the floor!! I am so relieved that I don't have to pull the gear box out. now my next challenge...

how are you going to mount your front number plate? I want to have mine hang from top of the inside of the spoiler. I really don't like the idea of drilling holes right in the middle of the front bar and covering it with a number plate.

after pumping the clutch for a while last night it seemed to get better. The clutch doesn't fully disengage and slips a little when the pedal is all the way in but its enough to let me start the car, back it out, turn it around and drive it in forwards. I got a few pics while it was out.

I have 2 stands, a pair of scissor jacks and a trolley jack. not the best tools for getting gearboxes in and out. it was much easier at my parents old place where they had a pit in the drive way and you could really get under the car. it was a real PITA getting things done under the car and...

got the fuel pump sorted again today. I figure it had a bad earth. after this I started the car for the 1st time with the extractors and exhaust fitted. it sounds right and the power steering seems to work right. The clutch is not disengaging when I push the pedal in so now I have to put more...