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2013 VE Audio Install - Suggestions Needed.

SimoHDK

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Awesome, thanks for that. For now I'll leave the processor out, I can always add it later if needed. They are rather expensive!

Also looking to get Phreddy from ASR to do the pre-amp RCA outputs from the head unit, therefore avoiding any nasty amplification from the Holden IQ. Then I can completely eliminate the LOC and maybe get an EQ of some sort for a little extra control.
 

Fun_Bucket

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I would pick many other components for the front before the Alpines with regards to the speaker.

The sub you have will not perform it's best in the enclosure it comes with. I am aware Alpine built it, but it is too small, and lacks efficiency. Better results can be had by using a larger sealed enclosure, 2 cu ft and about double the power.
 

Tasmaniak

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and also quadrupling the cost and slamming his head through the window on each bass beat.

Why on earth does he need 1kwrms for?

As for ditching the LOC and going with pre outs...you certainly could do that. But there is a lot of reason to not do that also. Provided the HU is not distorting (hard to do with a LOC but still very possible) then there is no issue with nasty stuff. Phreddys outputs provide a line level output, a LOC can lift your output voltage to several volts if not higher (line level is approx 950mV) while this extra voltage won't make your system louder it will allow you to run with lower gain settings meaning you will have a far cleaner output. Phreddys outputs are a fantastic option for people who don't want to spend the money on a decent LOC.... plus a decent LOC will also provide an amp trigger.
 

SimoHDK

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I had this sub in my old car, and was very happy with it so that's staying as is.

Well you've just convinced me to go back to a LOC. It's also easier for me and less messing around with the head unit which I'd rather not do. Might get something like this, which will give me all the LC7i features + EQ for only $30 more.

When you guys do installs, do you grab all the signals from around the HU? Or towards the front kick panels...I'm guessing it would be wise to cut and connect my new leads rather then using wire taps, correct?
 

Tasmaniak

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damn been awhile since I've seen one of them! It'll be a bit more then an extra $30 as you will have to pay more for the sub level control. That unit is bulletproof.

Yes, solder all your wiring. I personally wouldn't cut the wires, just simply splice into them and then disconnect at the speakers. This means, come time to the sell car your gear is easily removed and just wrap a bit of tape around the wire where you spliced in and reconnect the speaker. Just a little bit easier. Yes, I personally like to make as many of my connections up near the headunit. I have my reasons which could be argued all day long in a forum like this. Have a read around and make up your own mind.

What I will suggest is that when you extend the speaker wires to the LOC... twist them. I don't use speaker wire, I use just two different strands of wire and connect them up in the drill, someone holds the other end and pull the trigger! My reason for doing this is when you hook to the speaker outputs up to a LOC, the power on the wires drops massively. No longer is the HU putting out Watts, it's now dropped to milliwatts. This can pick up interference.

What part of Melbourne are you in?
 

SimoHDK

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Thanks so much for your tips so far.

So I think I've settled on the AudioControl LCQ-1 for my LOC, they seem to be very good units. I can see the benefits of tapping near the HU as it's a single point and bunch of cables down the centre.

I'll use something pre-made other then speaker wire (When you said twisted, Cat6 comes to mind but the gauge is probably a bit small lol) Perhaps something like this

I'm in the Eastern Suburbs (Doncaster Area)
 

SimoHDK

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Tasmaniak

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I have never seen that cable before, I've seen similar but not that. Considering that it's twisted as one it will actually defeat the purpose a little bit. Cat6 will be too thin(not by much mind you), your correct, but the idea is right. The pairs need to be indiviually twisted.

Heads up, incoming PM.
 

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and also quadrupling the cost and slamming his head through the window on each bass beat.

Why on earth does he need 1kwrms for?

Building an enclosure isn't expensive, neither is using a dedicated mono amp for the sub, and a multi channel for the fronts, and can be done for the cost of the pdx.

Have you built enclosures for the type R and compared the difference using different power amps? Because i have, put one through wini sd if you can find the tuning fq of the factory Alpine enclosure and see what results you come up with...
 

Tasmaniak

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Building an enclosure is a time wasting adventure if you are already happy with it's performance.

Have I built an enclosure for a TypeR and compared the difference between power amps? Maybe. Personally, I don't recall.

As for being able to build another box, buy another sub, buy a 4x100 amp and 1x1kw mono all for the cost of a 5 channel perfectly matched to the planned setup? That I have to see. Even if you suggest shoving 1kw into that poor TypeR you still couldn't do it.
 
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