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Advise on supercharging my vt 5.0L 383 stroker

ajvx01

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6 grand transbrake launches from the local Traffic Lights. lol

Ive got a 480hp 355 streeter and I find it hard to find roads where I can open it right up with out breaking traction.
Its all well and good having a killer engine like we all want to have....ideally id love a 6/71 on mine but where could I drive it.

you should start a build thread on this beast mate...id love to see pics and progress!!

X2 on everything said in this post.
 

Vs hsv manta

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There is a couple of things that come up straight away here!!

1, your gona make power and torque and a good wack of it I wouldn't so much worrie about 4 bolt mains but these days are using a main stud girdle contact pavtek these are around $300 but u need motor out or sump off to fit one then u need a ASR sump to fit over it !!!

2, when it comes to injector size really talk to ur tuner first sorry to say immortality but 60lbs will do much more the. 600 fwhp it comes down to fuel pressure and because it rises 60lbs will actually supply a lot more because pressure is up at 55 psi, at 43 psi yes 600hp but at around 55 psi they will do a lot more I'm make 500rwhp so some 640 fwhp now and am bearly pushing 70% duty cycle of 60lbs

3, what sort power are u after ??? I did all this research before I come onto this forum but I know lots of people have made more but after 550fwhp it is strongly advised to go to a forged crank exspecially with boost !!! A cast one will hold but for how long, and the torque these things make is strong and exspecially with 383 and a t trim blower the stroke is long with a lot of throw this 550 fwhp will come and go realy quick !!!

4, definetly change the cam as much lift as possible with 114 Lsa and u want more duration on exhaust side so if u pick something with 224 on the intake go about 232 or 234 on exhaust generally the second number should be about 8 or 10 bigger but with hydrolic and a aim of 6000rpm 114 Lsa is advised my revs more and is solid cam and pavtek advised me to go 112 as myn is a more reving race spec type of motor not so street friendly and doesn't hit boost till 3500rpm but this savage type of engine was what I was after dont do this if u drive it more then 1 a week u will regret it

5, use a felpro cometic head gasket !!! Myn is 0.040 thou thick !!!

6, 10.1 compression is high ( good for N/A) but I wouldn't recommend jamming boost down it and i u do dont go over about 6 psi !!! all this stuff comes down to how much u wana spend and how much power u want if u max that t trim every thing behind the crank and including the crank is gona cry help is it auto or manual and if manual 5 or 6 speed auto would need to be strong like fearly strong my mate had a t trim and chewed up and spat out 7 auto boxes the last cost him 6 grand and it held up but he abbused it hard, myn was 5 speed manual but there is no way it would hold up to this and t56 box is needed for manual way
 

Vs hsv manta

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Oops some how double posted

and will just say sorry I didn't read properly immortality u said 60lbs is good for a 600 fwhp motor, I thought u said 60lbs only good for around 600 hp

sorry yes this very correct sorry didn't read properly !!!

And blu383 1 044 pump will be on its limits with something like this 2 of them is more advised u dont want to run lean at top end that ends in disaster , 2 pumps to be safe side or 1 pump that is bigger !!!
And 1/2 lines is probley needed to I went both feed and return 1/2 because there is something about the fuel comin out of pressure after regulator and little air bubbles and causing froth in the tank or something that get quit complex but anyway same size return as feed is a good idea
 
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ari666

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There is a couple of things that come up straight away here!!

1, your gona make power and torque and a good wack of it I wouldn't so much worrie about 4 bolt mains but these days are using a main stud girdle contact pavtek these are around $300 but u need motor out or sump off to fit one then u need a ASR sump to fit over it !!!

2, when it comes to injector size really talk to ur tuner first sorry to say immortality but 60lbs will do much more the. 600 fwhp it comes down to fuel pressure and because it rises 60lbs will actually supply a lot more because pressure is up at 55 psi, at 43 psi yes 600hp but at around 55 psi they will do a lot more I'm make 500rwhp so some 640 fwhp now and am bearly pushing 70% duty cycle of 60lbs

3, what sort power are u after ??? I did all this research before I come onto this forum but I know lots of people have made more but after 550fwhp it is strongly advised to go to a forged crank exspecially with boost !!! A cast one will hold but for how long, and the torque these things make is strong and exspecially with 383 and a t trim blower the stroke is long with a lot of throw this 550 fwhp will come and go realy quick !!!

4, definetly change the cam as much lift as possible with 114 Lsa and u want more duration on exhaust side so if u pick something with 224 on the intake go about 232 or 234 on exhaust generally the second number should be about 8 or 10 bigger but with hydrolic and a aim of 6000rpm 114 Lsa is advised my revs more and is solid cam and pavtek advised me to go 112 as myn is a more reving race spec type of motor not so street friendly and doesn't hit boost till 3500rpm but this savage type of engine was what I was after dont do this if u drive it more then 1 a week u will regret it

5, use a felpro cometic head gasket !!! Myn is 0.040 thou thick !!!

6, 10.1 compression is high ( good for N/A) but I wouldn't recommend jamming boost down it and i u do dont go over about 6 psi !!! all this stuff comes down to how much u wana spend and how much power u want if u max that t trim every thing behind the crank and including the crank is gona cry help is it auto or manual and if manual 5 or 6 speed auto would need to be strong like fearly strong my mate had a t trim and chewed up and spat out 7 auto boxes the last cost him 6 grand and it held up but he abbused it hard, myn was 5 speed manual but there is no way it would hold up to this and t56 box is needed for manual way

the way you type stuff is making me hard
 

Blu383

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Sweet thanks for all the advise guys, I really apreciate it!
Hopefully when things get closer I will put a progress thread up and show you what I've been up too.

The gear box is an auto with corvette internals, clutches from a HSV 6L. 3000 high stall and a stage 2 shift kit, all done about 1100kms ago. The work on that cost me about $4000
The diff has 3.73's as well
 

Vs hsv manta

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Sweet thanks for all the advise guys, I really apreciate it!
Hopefully when things get closer I will put a progress thread up and show you what I've been up too.

The gear box is an auto with corvette internals, clutches from a HSV 6L. 3000 high stall and a stage 2 shift kit, all done about 1100kms ago. The work on that cost me about $4000
The diff has 3.73's as well

The box and diff gears are good and should hold up quite fine and 3000 stall is good for blower set up !!!

Are u thinking of rebuild motor or don't want to do that yet ???
 

Blu383

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Thinking that a rebuild is going to be in order to put this charger On, by the sounds of it I'll have to change the cam setup, fuel system, compression ect so I'll get some $$$ together and go see an engine builder and see exactly what I need.

The cars going to basicly be a streeter but ultimately I'd love to get it featured in street commodores one day. And as we all do, I'm building it just coz! Lol
 

AirStrike

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The box and diff gears are good and should hold up quite fine and 3000 stall is good for blower set up !!!

Are u thinking of rebuild motor or don't want to do that yet ???
3000rpm stall is good for a blower setup..................based on what?
Diff gears should hold up quite fine? Are they billet diff gears?
 

Vs hsv manta

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Vs hsv manta
3000rpm stall is good for a blower setup..................based on what?
Diff gears should hold up quite fine? Are they billet diff gears?

Well based on that he has a t trim with 383 that he wants as a streeter !!!
What's wrong with a 3 grand stall in that ???

And the box has just had 4 grand spent on it would u like him to pull it apart and spend another 2 on it ???

And the diff with 3.7 nothing wrong there either sure he can change to a $6000 G force set up with some stage 3 billet axels but unless he is putting 10 inches of rubber under it and doing hard launches why wouldn't he get the car goin first ???

If he brakes the diff or bearing it can easily be changed, but sounds like he has a few dollars to spend all ready and can attend this stuff later when need be

well that's just my oppion
 

AirStrike

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Well based on that he has a t trim with 383 that he wants as a streeter !!!
What's wrong with a 3 grand stall in that ???
What's wrong with a 2500rpm stall? A 2800rpm stall? Why a 3000?

And the box has just had 4 grand spent on it would u like him to pull it apart and spend another 2 on it ???
I was talking about the convertor, never mentioned the box.
And the diff with 3.7 nothing wrong there either sure he can change to a $6000 G force set up with some stage 3 billet axels but unless he is putting 10 inches of rubber under it and doing hard launches why wouldn't he get the car goin first ???
You said the diff gears will hold up fine, like changing ratio is some sort of way of strengthening the centre
If he brakes the diff or bearing it can easily be changed, but sounds like he has a few dollars to spend all ready and can attend this stuff later when need be

well that's just my oppion

.........................
 
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