Alloytech oil v6

[AdventraAddict]

To throw in my 10c..... I bought an Alloytec 190 2 years ago and it was pretty cruddy inside at 220,000kms (as they are)
I have been running Nulon 5w30 diesel full synth since getting it (contains light cleaners) and for about 70,000 kms now... recently had the rocker covers off to drill out the PCV on the Driver side bank (recommended Alloytec Mod FYI as its always the right bank that fowls up) and it is clean and beautiful inside.. blew me away how well it has worked... Running like a swiss watch..... Highly recommend

 

[Braith]

I've been using Valvoline Durablend 5w-30w in my VE V6 since new in 2008. It is now getting a bit hard to get, which is a pain. I am thinking of changing to something a bit easier to get. Is the Caltex Havoline PRODS fully synthetic a good choice? Is there better (has to be easy enough to obtain). Thanks
Braith

 

[stick3]

the one you mentioned or any well known brand i have used 5/30 /10/30 10/40 semi or full synthetic in the vz over the last 10 years using penrite nulon valvoline castrol
change it a 7500km or 6 months what ever comes first

 

[mechanic]

The sorts of questions always make me shake my head, or laugh depending on the answers.

Viscosity (5w30, 10w40 or whatever) is an old fashioned way of measuring an oil's performance, and is only half of what you need to look for. I can make orange juice pass the viscosity test if I add the right thickness modifiers (seriously, I could). The larger the difference between the two numbers, the more impurities (thickness modifiers) that have to be added to make the oil perform to the advertised numbers.

The oil base-stock lasts forever - practically speaking. Base-stock oil is only destroyed by being burned or chemically modified. The additives package (thickness modifiers, detergents etc) are the bits that deplete, making your oil 'wear out'. The more additives, the faster it wears out.

The second part is the Classification. ACEA, API, ILSAC or whatever the owner's manual tells you. This tells you how the oil performs under specific engine tests and conditions. I'd put more faith in the classification than the viscosity.

Synthetic, mineral or blended, the oil has to perform and pass classification tests (ACEA, API, ILSAC etc) to be classified under that label. Yes, generally speaking the synthetic oils or blends perform better than minerals, but don't be sold on Big Oil's marketing crap.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

 

[greenacc]

I've been using Valvoline Durablend 5w-30w in my VE V6 since new in 2008. It is now getting a bit hard to get, which is a pain. I am thinking of changing to something a bit easier to get. Is the Caltex Havoline PRODS fully synthetic a good choice? Is there better (has to be easy enough to obtain). /QUOTE]

I've heard the Havoline stuff is pretty good. It will be in the same group as all these other common synthetic oils most people on here are using.
If you are a Valvoline man like me and durablend is hard to find why not use Synpower? I've been using it in my Allotted for 8 years and still going strong. Havoline, Synpower, HPR5, and Nulon full syn would all be essentially the same thing...

 

[commodore665]

I must say I am amazed at the number of people asking about "The best oil for my car?"
If you follow the books with your car then you can't go wrong.
i.e. Why would The General, or Henry or Toyodo San etc. etc. NOT give you the correct information?
But you do need to READ your books regarding types of oils that suit and the viscosity, and do a check with various companies

I'm quite positive that all cars come with books with vital information in them, so are the people asking the oil question reading their books, or is it easier to tap out a message, or are the books "missing".

I'm really interested in hearing some answers.

exactly , go with what the owners manual says , the guys who service mine use 5W 30 dexos I , so when I do the 5000-7500 service myself that's what I use too .