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Another VS Head Gasket thread...

Zackk

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Hey guys, I did a search and tried to work out what the go was, but to no avail. So I thought I'd just post about my issue and see what you guys can tell me.

Basically, got home from my mates place and noticed that the temp guage was at about 3 quarters, opened the bonnet up straight away and saw (what looked like) steam coming out the the side of my engine block. Now, I'm 99% sure that the head gasket is blown - However, the common telltale signs of a blown head gasket aren't there.. Oil isn't milky, no water coming out of exhaust (that I have seen, at the very least). I checked my coolant and realised **** was empty... Filled it up with water at first (while it was still hot - not sure if it was relevant or not) and noticed that the hose clamp at the bottom of the radiator had snapped, and I was leaking from there, which made sense as it hadn't been long since I topped it up. It kept leaking, so I got myself some stop-leak and chucked it in (mind you, before I noticed that the clamp had snapped) and topped it up with some more coolant, and it hasn't overheated since. I haven't noticed any loss in power and the idle isn't overly rough (around 300xxx on the clock, can't expect it to be purring like a ferrari).

All that aside, I'm not entirely convinced that I've blown my head gasket. Can anyone shed some light on the situation?
Also, would anyone have any idea how far up the temp guage one would need to take the car for the head to warp? I really can't afford a reco or a new head, so I'm hoping I got lucky and it's still true.

I've also read that the inlet manifold gasket can cause similar issues, but I just don't think it has anything to do with my situation, as there was steam coming out of the side of my engine.

Thanks guys, any info is greatly appreciated.
 

ephect

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Water may have been squirted onto the exhaust, giving U the steam from the side of the block.

ensure its topped up then take it for a spin, getting it to operating temp, then come back open the hood and see if U can see any leaks or drips.

When my bottom hose let go, I had steam pouring out the bonnet, hose back on and its been fine, U may be ok, and sounds like u caught it before doing more damage
 

Zackk

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That's a good theory, but there wouldn't have been a way for water to get up there that I know of at least.. Did a bit more research on blown head gaskets etc, discovered that there's bubbles in the radiator but I only thought it needed to be bled. So I'll be doing a third check over and trying to find any oil where it shouldn't be/water where it shouldn't be. I honestly think I may go ahead with the head gasket swap, just to be safe, haha, and something to do. Is there anything else that is a fairly common issue with the s2 vs's that I should look into changing/fixing while I've got the head off?
 

Wozza

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Honestly on a 300K + motor you got to look at the economics of doing the head gaskets especially if your not 100% sure.....go to radiator place or mechanics and get the cooling system tested for pressure and combustion chamber gasses..shouldn't cost much and you will then know for sure..a busted hose clamp can throw water everywhere when its under pressure, prob find the under bonnet felt got soaked and dripped down onto the motor...if your going to do a top end rebuild you might as well do the lifters, timing chain...ect ect then you will need to get the heads checked for crack's and warping ....even doing it yourself your prob not going to get much change from 1k$$$ I suppose it all depends on what the motor has had done to it previously
 

adam10_1990

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Also, would anyone have any idea how far up the temp guage one would need to take the car for the head to warp? I really can't afford a reco or a new head, so I'm hoping I got lucky and it's still true.
I was in a burnout comp recently (at power cruise and sat on limter for a full 3 minutes, the hot needle was bending off the stop point, the head on mine is still fine,

not saying doing this is advisable, but the only thing i did manage to break was the big end bearing, which after still driving finally went and put a rod through the block.

edit ; my engine had + 280 000 ks on the clock
 

Zackk

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So I'm at my mates place now and we're just sizing up the job, definitely have a busted radiator, but there's definitely no oil in the radiator and no water in the oil. Car isn't missing and there isn't any loss of power. But, there are bubbles in the radiator when running. That is the ONLY sign that I've seen (other then the steam from the block) that points towards head gasket.
 

Brett_jjj

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Id be doing a compression test and getting the cooling system pressure tested.
 

adam10_1990

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well i have a spare radiator here if you want one, $20 and its yours, im located in ascot Brisbane. (near eagle farm)

edit : and a spare engine that has 266 000, $80 if you want it bare, (so no extra components on it)

was running fine, car is off the road due to bent chassis rail
 

Wozza

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So I'm at my mates place now and we're just sizing up the job, definitely have a busted radiator, but there's definitely no oil in the radiator and no water in the oil. Car isn't missing and there isn't any loss of power. But, there are bubbles in the radiator when running. That is the ONLY sign that I've seen (other then the steam from the block) that points towards head gasket.
How are you checking the bubbling? there prob a ton of air in the system after it ran dry, it can take a few days to a week for it all to bleed out when the system pressurizes...If you cant afford to get it professionally pressure checked then you could try the the coke bottle method, you cut the bottom of the coke bottle off and wrap some tape around the neck of the bottle so it makes a good seal in the radiator filler neck.fill the bottle up until about 1/4 1/2 full, run the car till the thermostat opens(make sure heater is on in the car) and top up the bottle as the water gets pulled into the cooling system..when it settles down to a consistent level check for bubbles.....
 

Brett_jjj

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How are you checking the bubbling? there prob a ton of air in the system after it ran dry, it can take a few days to a week for it all to bleed out when the system pressurizes...If you cant afford to get it professionally pressure checked then you could try the the coke bottle method, you cut the bottom of the coke bottle off and wrap some tape around the neck of the bottle so it makes a good seal in the radiator filler neck.fill the bottle up until about 1/4 1/2 full, run the car till the thermostat opens(make sure heater is on in the car) and top up the bottle as the water gets pulled into the cooling system..when it settles down to a consistent level check for bubbles.....
As well as following the above directions, it hepls to have the front of the car is facing uphill when refilling the cooling system(the steeper the hill the better). This will help any trapped air move to the front of the engine block out into the radiator where its then expelled from the system.
 
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