Anyone got a VZ Cross 8 Crewman? (But now I have one :) )

[Fu Manchu]

Removed the roof trims today. It will get a good clean under there. Broke a couple of clips.

Used trim removal tools. Do not use screwdrivers. You’ll fk something up quite badly if you do. The nylon trim tools won’t damage anything. Start at the front and work back.

Fk me. How is extortion like the following allowed?

That is a fairly standard price after going through lots of clip suppliers. There is no way in hell that 10 or 20 plastic clips even remotely cost $50 to make. The profit margin here is ridiculous.

Now you may notice that ad is for VE and VF. I found the roof channel is near on the same. In fact, the VE/VF roof trim is the same size and profile. The clips fit the same. I had a spare VF roof trim set in the garage to compare them. The VE/VF is slightly bent enough to prevent it being used on a VZ, though I think a VE wagon trim might be adapted to fit VZ if it has a straight enough section.

So VT-VF roof trims share the same clips. Fit into each other the same. VT-VZ is top, VE/VF is bottom.

Also the end pieces for the VE/VF fit the VZ trim.

They are slightly different looking but fit up the same. So that’s an option if ever anyone gets stuck.

The roof trims for VZ sedans can easily be cut shorter to suit a wagon, Crewman, or Ute.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I might checkout Amazon US for GTO trim clips.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Marked out the camera location.
This spot is really good on my current VZ Crewman. So going to copy that again. Sits above the tow bar. Hardly see it.

I used tape to mark the halfway point. Nice and easy that way. Just folded it in half with the little man’s help. Gives an exact point.

Wiring will exit here, with the number plate lights.

Marked the spot with a Chinagraph pencil. I’ll drill the hole for the wiring tomorrow.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Sorted the diff breather, I think.

I got two of these.

Fits in the end of the breather hose. I can easily push air through it.

The breather was fitted along the diff. Not sure that would do much.

So I re-routed it. Used a reusable plug in cable tie. Not sure this is even a good enough solution. Open to ideas.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Sorted a creaky drive by wire accelerator pedal. Bloody thing was creaking like a floor board. Wasn’t when I drove it home from transport depot. Was when I got the seat back in.

Used my fav Xenox lube. Sticky as. Into all the joins where the various parts touch each other.

Didn’t fix it at the time, but next day, it’s like a new one.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Removed heat shields so I could get the near fused leads off. Most just broke apart.

Right hand exhaust manifold bolt has been snapped off at some point. Not visible behind the heat shield. Well played by some workshop in Mornington or Dandenong in Victoria. Not apparent exhaust leak though. Lucky.

 

[Fu Manchu]

BMW clips for the win.
Waaaay cheaper than Holden clips and better quality.

The BMW X5 clips fit the Holden 7mm holes.

Snug fit into the wheel flares.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Modified a cup holder for the back. Was $10 on eBay. One of those crap things that slot between the seat and centre console.

Made a template of the drive shaft tunnel and cut out the shape from the drink holder.

Used some stick on foam and Velcro on the base so it grips. Also used some adhesive K Flex seal on the cut. It helps grip too.

Fits my VE Calais too. Sits over the tunnel.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Finally had part of a day to get on with more of this wiring.

I’m trying really hard to not end up with a dogs breakfast behind here. The lack of mounting points in here is making it hard. The extra loom for the trailer harness is messy and that’s a factory item.

• Loom going from the front.
• Loom from the camera for power and earth.
• The harness from the rearllights (Not in the above photo) with the pigtail off it for reverse and brake.
The camera RCA.

I have a connection for the camera rca in the wheel well up high. You can’t buy these with female ends so have to use an adaptor. Taped together and covered with heat shrink.

There are not sealing connectors available for these and most camper forums suggest other types of non weather proof connections.

I found somewhere that a bike tube does the job, cable tied at two places each end.
Bike tube it is.

I have the connection just back from the tub wiring connectors because I can’t get a weather proof connection. If the tub ever needs to be removed or moved back to access the fuel tank, this allows things to be disconnected easily, rather than adding a pin in the arse to the job if it were to run straight through like someone might do in a sedan or wagon. The extra wiring is also connected in this area for the same reason. I will tag the harnesses so someone else won’t miss them.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Some of my favourite wiring tools.

Did the pigtail off the rear light harness.

I never solder. Always crimp. They are a beautiful thing.

Covered with heat shrink.

So for the first time, I messed with this stuff. Braided harness cover. It’s a monster! It frays so easy. Cut it, frays. Horrible. So cut it, burn it. Heat gun just frays it. The old lighter worked a treat.

Then heat shrink on the ends.

New LED reverse and brake light globes ready to go into the new lights I have. Not doing indicator, no where safe to mount the resistor for it, so sticking with regular bulb. *note, these have a forward facing LED set as well so they work as the old bulbs did.