Backyard Spray Job on VN commodore (Black) need info

[Bz Kn33z]

Cash flow problems atm, but have sourced out a SV5000 kit for it, and Group A bulge then when I get enough cash up for everything I will get stuck into it.

 

[showbags]

Here's what I do:
#1. Use 2K in door jams, inside of doors, engine bay, boot, underside of bonnet and boot lids or anywhere it's hard to block and buff.

#2. Use acrylic on exterior panels with lots of clear and your last 2-3 coats, double the recommended thinners and spray wet. This will give you virtually peel free finish, only requiring a light wet block with p1500-p2000 before cutting.

 

[Bellicose]

Acrylic laquer is CRAP, it's lots of hard work for minimal results.

2 pack is easier to get flat (no peel) off the gun and so easy to sand if you have to.

Yes i'm qualified to comment as i'm a car painter with 27 years under my belt.


Also, for those that say you won't get a decent finish in ya backyard shed..............well i'm calling BS on that.

Have a look at my shed lol.

 

[C V]

Totally agree with ya Bellicose. Stay away from acrylic, it not worth the time and effort. It'll look great for a couple of months then just die in the arse. My old VB SLE was painted over 15 years ago in 2 pack, because the factory acrylic had seen better days and its still going strong.

 

[lemusa]

I did my car in acrylic. Gonna take it to a panelbeater to get a the clear redone though cos apparently I cant spray clear for ****. He reckoned spray 2k clear over the acrylic base. I liked acylic just cos for a first timer there was less involved

 

[ari666]

He reckoned spray 2k clear over the acrylic base.

anytime i have gone anywhere near acrylic with 2k thinner i have had a huge fry-up issue, so i wouldnt recommend doing that at all.

nope. you gotta decide from the word go what you are doing. 2k hi-fill, 2k base coat then 2k clear. otherwise acrylic everything. but not a bit of both, it just wont work. and bellicose, nice work buddy!

 

[Boostedn14]

2k Black is no different to paint than any other kind of 2k solid, just make sure your prep is good. I don't really do much wet sanding but i would do all the dents you want to do, then sand it down with some 180, give it 4 good coats with high fill 2k primer, about 15 minutes flashoff between coats, i would then leave it alone for a week, let the primer sink back.

Then, if you were just wanting to prime it the once, i would block the car down with 320 then sand it down with 500. Get it all masked up blow it down, degrease it etc etc. when mixing your paint i would run with a 3:1 mixture at about 30% reducer (it all depends on your personal preference and how you paint) i would also be using just a normal hardener. When it comes time to paint tack off your whole car, then tack off your hands and your arms and your airline (you would be suprised on how much crap is on your airline and hands) Give the car one semi wet coat, let it flash off for about 5 minutes (being a big car you won't have to wait long) then give it one final nice wet coat. Make sure you watch how the paint is melting in and make sure you aren't getting any dry lines through your job. Also make sure you heat up the car before painting, this will reduce the amount of peel you will get through your job.


Its pretty easy mate, any idiot can pick up a gun and paint, its the professionals that know how to prep well and put the effort into a quality prep job. And to be honest you shouldn't have to buff your job, i don't know why people think that all 2k jobs need to be buffed....as soon as you sand and buff 2k you will always need to keep on top of it and keep it buffed, unless you flowcoat your job.


Here's an example of jobs that are off the gun.....


My commodore is just a quick shitty paint up that took me about 2 hours to prep, i pretty much just scotched the whole car down, bond coated it and painted it.

And this is my Pulsar that i did at work, this was a more thorough job, i shaved a few things and primed it, blocked it and painted it, only 2 coats of clear...nothing different to any other job we do, but the prep work is second to none, not a single ripple, the whole car is dead straight.

 

[ari666]

i don't know why people think that all 2k jobs need to be buffed....

they dont. BUT 98% of the people who post on here asking questions like OP has, have had 0 expierence using a gun. and to tell them they can get the job done without any peel, runs or bits of **** in it is just misleading.

we all get it that your roof looks brilliant, and yes that pulsar looks amazing. but remember you are talking to novices, and hyping them (us) up to do a perfect job on their (our) first go is just gonna lead to dissappointment. may as well tell them (us) the truth, so when they do get a run or peel or whatever, they know where to go from there.


just sayin'

p.s. this is my roof. and yeah. its gonna get blocked and buffed. just cos i want it perfect:

 

[383 hatch]

I like the look of 2K after it's buffed. For me, 2K is too "cheesy" i guess off the gun (no matter how good the painter is) and it's looks much nicer and flatter after it's been rubbed and buffed, this is just my opinion obviously.

Sure, the Pulsar looks good in pics (as do most cars) but i bet in real life/up close it would still have a certain amount of peel.

 

[Boostedn14]

Bullshit, confidence and practice before you paint your project will see excellent results. I'm not saying you shouldn't buff, nor will you get a run free job.... it just seems as though everyone seems to think its mandatory to a good job.

My pulsar has peel, not much but it has some. nothing a 2000 and flow coat won't sort out though.


Or am i the only that isn't allowed to post pics of work done?