basic water injection non boosted

[ari666]

what youre doing is significantly dropping the wattage able to be drawn on that circuit, which means your injector wont be getting the same amount of "oomph" as the rest.

i mean i may be totally wrong, but in my mind, by reducing the current to that injector, youre basically making is Ms-response time far higher than the others, which will be making that cylinder run leaner, simply because the solenoid isnt getting saturated with enough wattage to pull it open. it may not be noticable at idle, but at higher RPM i daresay youll start getting some dodgie O2 readings on that bank, and thus, negating any positive results from the water injection.

if you wrap a wire around a spark plug lead, it can be used as an effective "inductance coil" (similar to your timing light) the current passing along the spark plug lead through the coil generates an electromagnet field which can then be used to trigger the injector. i know youre not really interested in the idea, so i wont bother making a circuit diagram.


where this idea falls down though is the fact that its just an on/off pulse signal, and is not controllable like the Ms-response your injectors are undergoing. itll just mean that injector#7 squirts when sparkplug 1 fires. the amount of time it squirts is anyones guess. but again, it can be measured out simply by looking at the amount of water used vs fuel and adjusting the water pressure to the injector accordingly.

but whatevs. im sure your way will be fine.

 

[ephect]

so what your saying is atm my current varies but the voltage stays the same? i'm not too worried as long as the voltage stays constant as it seems to be running fine.

ok, say:
original 1 injector is 12ohm, voltage is 12v its sucking 1amp
new add just that 5.6ohm resistor, you already drawing 2.14amps before you get to your 2 parallel injectors. your parallel injectors will draw 6.25amps

so your now drawing 8.4amps which is designed for drawing 1amp, somethings gonna have a bad time..

PS: i believe my maths is correct, please correct me

 

[ari666]

here is a volts offsets VS Kpa chart off an LS1. now although technically youre not changing volts, youre adding to the wattage drawn actross the wire, by adding watts youre increasing heat, which in itself creates additional resistance. which adds to loss:

note: its viatally important to get your Mv offset table set up right in your tune, as it alters the speed at which your injectors open and close. at normal 14.7 volts your injectors can respond at around 0.6Ms, but at 9V they may drop right down to 1.1Ms, so thats what this offset table is for. you can see at 80kpa and 14.5v we have an offset of 0.473 whereas at 9V is 1.5106. which means that if youre ecu reads 9v, itll keep the injector open 3 times longer than if its reading 14.5V

problem with that is: the ecu wont know there is a voltage drop on injector #1, and even if it did, there is no way to adjust just 1 injector.

by sticking additional load on the injector, you have no way of knowing when its closing, and therby affecting your tune.

 

[Tasmaniak]

I wasted half an hour of my life trying to find a suitable mime. But simply following of ohms law and ignoring the other half may require a couple shots o this Lucas product

 

[ari666]

thats lucas, only suitable for english cars plus it doesnt specify which wire colour smoke its for, unless its a multi-colour smoke like this:

you can easily and quickly replace magic smoke in whole looms (assuming youve plugged the leaks) with this stuff

 

[ari666]

also: has anyone considered the long term affects of running water through a fuel injector?

 

[monkey]

Non filtered as well. Very interesting thread. What kind of difference in fuel usage are you seeing Taz? My missus has a frontera which has similar engine to yours.

 

[TheVsStig]

if anyone can say here do it this way its better, i'm all ears. i never wanted to run it directly of the load supplied to injector one, but i put several posts asking for a better way to do this and no one could answer it. so what could i do, i've tested it and the cars runs fine sounds fine up high and doesn't throw fault codes. the circuit still maintains the same voltage and resistance so i didnt see a problem. as i said though if someone can say here run the injector like this it's better i will do it that way.

from what i here the injectors are stainless, so a mixture of water/meth should be fine or even just water. it has been done before, and as far as i know has worked without fault. also i was going to use a filter.

 

[ari666]

fk man. how many different ways do i need to suggest????

you have at your disposal:

sticking in ported vac (like tas has done and is willing to demonstrate results)
stick in the air stream (as i did and vouch by my results, but have no hard proof)
stick an inductive coil on spark plug lead #1 as a trigger
stick on DFI module 1 as a trigger


i havnt even looked at the links provided but im sure they all offer at least 1-5 more otions.

you seem to think we're just sitting here debunking your ideas when really we're actually trying to help you by offering our opinions.... take it as you wish, but ignoring them just makes you seem ignorant.

 

[TheVsStig]

fk man. how many different ways do i need to suggest????

you have at your disposal:

sticking in ported vac (like tas has done and is willing to demonstrate results)
stick in the air stream (as i did and vouch by my results, but have no hard proof)
stick an inductive coil on spark plug lead #1 as a trigger
stick on DFI module 1 as a trigger


i havnt even looked at the links provided but im sure they all offer at least 1-5 more otions.

you seem to think we're just sitting here debunking your ideas when really we're actually trying to help you by offering our opinions.... take it as you wish, but ignoring them just makes you seem ignorant.

how many times did i say the whole vac thing dosent work for me and i want something more controlled than that. how many times did i ask how to join to the dfi module with no answer. and now you mention the spark plug lead and still offer no explanation how to do it.

other than vacuum style, which i have repetitively said doesn't work. no one has suggested a way to control an injector electronically as i have said i wanted to do for some time now. so as i said if your willing to explain a better way to do it, then by all means scribble a diagram down and i will do it that way. honestly i would appreciate the help.