basic water injection non boosted

[EYY]

What exactly are your goals and why do you want to achieve them?

Is this in prep for future mods? Or just because it's something you want to do?

If you're wanting the water for top end cleansing and fuel economy, connecting it via a drip feed will work very well. At cruise (high manifold vacuum), it will be sucking in water. At WOT, it won't be sucking in the water anywhere near as much since the manifold vacuum is low. In the case you're driving with your foot flat to the floor, you don't care about your economy anyway.

Ari offers some really good advice too. Look further into some of is suggestions.

 

[ari666]

how many times did i ask how to join to the dfi module with no answer.

im sorry, i truely didnt read the times you asked how to use the DFI.

the DFI would be used in the same way an inductive coil would be on your lead. its just a trigger. same rules apply across the board, the injector will open and close when it gets a pulse signal. again; it wont be as controlled in Ms response as an injector, but again, itll just be something you measure water usage across fuel usage to get your flow rates.

im not entirely sure how the dfi module gets its pulse signal, so ill assume its - to trigger (+ve live/run) so it will wire exactly the same as an injector. + on the "high" side, - on the "low" side. the dfi module gets a - pulse from the ECU via the CAS, and it fires the coil, in the meantime the signal gets patched by your injector (which is driven off a different + circuit) and your injector opens.

but the DFI module on a V6 is a wasted spark, ie. itll fire twice per cycle, so youll have to halve your math, because the injector will open twice per fire, but again this can all be controlled by water pressure at the pump.

 

[ari666]

there is nothing complex to it. the complexity lies in its simplicity

 

[Tasmaniak]

The complexity liesnin the simplicity.. Ari. How zen of you!

 

[ephect]

The vacuum didn't work because iirc u had the water pipe closer to the pod not the thottlebody. Try it at the throttlebody

 

[ari666]

he said he put it on the bend, which i think is near the throttle body. but if i recall, he didnt wanna do it due to the time it took from him planting his foot to when it generated enough vacuum to suck the water through.

what would be perfect was if there was a way he could use the injector signal to drive a relay, which powers injector #7, but im just not sure if a 12V 30A relay would have the right reaction time. we're talking opening and closing in milliseconds...

this guy gets his microcontroller down to 3.5Ms, getteing closer to being useful:
Using Relays (Tips & Tricks) » Jumper One


but thats only 5V

 

[ari666]

yeah this seems pretty legit:

i reckon you could live with a 3ms delay.

 

[ari666]

2 seconds on google yields a site that has wiring schematics for exactly your purposes OP.

Additional Injector Driver 1

Power for the driver is supplied from a switched 12V supply. Make sure that power goes away when the ignition is OFF.

The open end of R1 is connected to the switched side of the target injector. With the engine running, one side of the injector will be at a constant 12V, while the other will oscilate, because it is being switched to ground every time the injector "fires". This is side you need to connect to.

To test the unit, don't connect the new injector just yet. Rather, use a 12V lamp in it's place, and hook everything else up. With the switch off, the lamp should be OFF.

Start the engine. The lamp should still be OFF.

Now, turn the switch on. At idle, the lamp should be on dimly or even flickering. As revs increase, the lamp brightness will also increase, indicating that duty cycle of the original injectors is being followed.

If all went well, switch off, shut down and you can now connect the new injector.

In practice, you can use the switch input via a microswitch on the throttle, so it only operates at full throttle, or perhaps a boost pressure switch to trigger when the unit reaches a preset boost level.

here is where you get your parts:

BC548 http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2154
TIP31: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2285
*actually, CBF, just email the list to jaycar and theyll find all the bits.

 

[ari666]

actually, that diagram is a bit silly. ignore CN2, Q3 and R3. dunno why he has put that twice but doesnt seem necessary. think its just an ignition 'on' device, which you can fix by hooking up "vcc" to igntion 'on' (hot/run) and grounding the earth pin of Q1

 

[TheVsStig]

my goal is to have a water injection setup that increases the water/meth flow as my rpm/fuel increases, to try and keep a even 1:10 ratio all the way from 100km/h cruise right u pto those 5000rpm spits in the overtaking lane. i know it may not really do to much for me at WOT atm, but i do plan on going to forced induction at some point (and i'm a perfectionist).

thankyou for your help ari, honestly i thought people were ignoring my post about the dfi module as they were dismissing my idea of a controlled injection rate and thought i was wasting time with anything other than vac.

btw yes the vac would sort off work, if you were cruising at 100 it would be getting a trickle but as soon as i backed off it would take ages to suck the water back up. and i just wanted something a bit more controllable.

i will have a good read through whats just been posted and try to set something up like that. as i said i never wanted to be drawing power directly from and injector.

EDIT - btw i did try google but i was googling "how to wire 7th injector" probably a poor search phrase. and reading those diagrams is making my head spin, trying to work it out though.