Blue LED Dash Conversion

[myberlina]

For my window switches I used 5mm LEDs but if i do them again as I plan to do, i would use 3mm LEDs. The main switches are actually LED style in the front so you don't need resistors for that part of your upgrade.

With 3mm in the window switches it will fit into the confined space easier.

 

[lockmac]

For my window switches I used 5mm LEDs but if i do them again as I plan to do, i would use 3mm LEDs. The main switches are actually LED style in the front so you don't need resistors for that part of your upgrade.

With 3mm in the window switches it will fit into the confined space easier.

So are you saying that I dont need to use resistors? Are you talking about the whole window block (in the center console with 4 buttons and the child lock) or are you talking about the individual buttons on the two back doors?

Cause today i put a resistor and a 5mm LED in one of the door switches and it was working when I would plug it in, then i put the cover and switch back on it and it would only work when i pushed the button... then after a while it blew the LED (literally, it was split in half).

Any help appreacited mate :thumbsup:

 

[WinterVX]

This may help with a top view inside the switch on my car mate. This is what mine
sits like inside the switch. Dont worry about the LED looking green tho, I had a bit
of trial and error with trying to tone down the brightness of the LED with the pre
existing cover on the surface mount globes that sit in the switch orginally. It dulled
it down a bit, but it came up a little too aqua for my liking.

Ive used a 3mm LED from advice from MyBerlina, and it sits fine. I dont know what
MCD rating the LED is, but its pretty bright and light shines through the sides of the
switch......if u can find a LED thats low in MCD brightness it should work well.

 

[myberlina]

So are you saying that I dont need to use resistors? Are you talking about the whole window block (in the center console with 4 buttons and the child lock) or are you talking about the individual buttons on the two back doors? :thumbsup:

Yes. I am referring to the whole window block in the centre console. For some reason they used LED in this and old fasion filament globe for the rear window switches.

If the LED only came on when the button was pressed (whether it be up or down) then I dare say you have shorted something internally. You have to make sure that the resistor does not get bypassed by making direct contact with the copper contacts inside. If it does then a split LED is what will result... although when you see it happen it looks cool as!!! hehehe

 

[lockmac]

Thanks for the replies guys.. the split LED actually resulted on the back window switch, and i still dont know what caused it.. im guessing something must have touched but i didnt really think it did. I will pick up some tomorrow from JayCar and see how i go.

Also with the power window block... did anyone have trouble getting the switches off to reveal the LED? I certainly did.. i actually broke the clip that holds the switch on, but luckily i had a whole new block lying around.

Oh.. and one more thing, the headlight switch.. is this impossible??!! I open the back and the ballberrings fall out, and i really cannot see a possible way of putting them back in.. any help here appreciated

Many thanks

 

[myberlina]

its hard to explain... you have to get the ball bearings back into the housing and with great skill put humpty dumpty back together again.

I think i used a flat bladed screw driver to help me do it the last time... been that lond since I done it. Most importantly it can be done but its a time consuming task sometimes.

 

[WinterVX]

Anyone got pics of doin the headlight switch then? sounds like when its time for me
to move up in to the switches on the dash.....the headlight switch may annoy me a bit

 

[wrx884]

Thanks for the replies guys.. the split LED actually resulted on the back window switch, and i still dont know what caused it.. im guessing something must have touched but i didnt really think it did. I will pick up some tomorrow from JayCar and see how i go.

Also with the power window block... did anyone have trouble getting the switches off to reveal the LED? I certainly did.. i actually broke the clip that holds the switch on, but luckily i had a whole new block lying around.

Oh.. and one more thing, the headlight switch.. is this impossible??!! I open the back and the ballberrings fall out, and i really cannot see a possible way of putting them back in.. any help here appreciated

Many thanks

Sounds like part of the LED or resistor touched 1 of the metal contacts and yer it shorted out.

The head light switch is actually quiet easy tho u cant just rip it appart like the others lol or u will pull the bearings out u have 2 kinda take it appart bit by bit. once u get the backin off (after u get the knob off) slide it out so the centre bit with the bearing is still on under the circuit board and the bearing that is use 2 dim the lights should stay in place then u just put that aside till u got the job dun coz all u gotta do is slide the circuit board from the backin really and leave the centre piece still there.

The main power windows switch 4 the lil switches that cover the leds i just used a flat blade suck as a butter knife haha amazing tool that is haha

 

[myberlina]

As per request by WinterVX...

These photo's show the cluster once at FULL power and once at LOW power. There was a pic of in between but there was stuff all difference.

I think the blown led in the RH trip computer (it kinda flickers on and off rapidly) is going to send me into epileptic shock soon!

 

[wrx884]

As per request by WinterVX...

These photo's show the cluster once at FULL power and once at LOW power. There was a pic of in between but there was stuff all difference.

I think the blown led in the RH trip computer (it kinda flickers on and off rapidly) is going to send me into epileptic shock soon!

cluster looks good all white man tho u should put some LEDs in 4 the needles and even put some red LEDs on the high revs part and the other 2 red bits thats on the fuel and temp guages will look like a standard part then

As 4 the flickering LED thats just a dodgy LED they r a pain wen u solder 1 in and not realise till after it starts flickering and givin u the shits ay haha