Throwing parts on it can be expensive and as such it’s much better from your perspective to have it correctly diagnosed so it can be determines what’s actually wrong.
It used to be basic mechanics 101 to check the following components for slop, looseness or wear: wheel bearings, upper/lower control arm bushes, ball joints, upper strut mount, inner/outer tie rod ends, rack mounts, sway bar links and bushes, sway bar bushes, all other bushes. If something is out of spec, fix it…
Then you’d have the rotor inner and outer rotor runout and thickness variation checked using a dial indicator. If it’s out, then you’d have that fixed (machined or replaced).
If you are still getting wobbles, I’d even consider checking the tyre‘s road force variation which in theory should exist and you’d feel the wobble all the time but it wouldn’t surprise me if in odd situations the issue may only occur when the front end is loaded up (and the tyre squished) while braking where the RFV becomes a problem…
All that’s left is shocks and springs which can also be checked that they operate within specs.
The problem with old cars is that everything may be a little worn but just serviceable from an individual perspective however as a whole they aren’t as sure footed as they used to be.
After a good inspection it may be time to bite the bullet and spend some cash giving the front end anew lease of life after a bit of TLC The problem is that if you’re not capable in doing such stuff yourself, finding a good honest mechanic can be difficult
They do exists but finding them is the challenge
The problem then becomes that you’ve fixed the front and it’s great bu5 you notice the rear isn’t anywhere near as great… and you fix that so the drive line becomes noticeable as not 10p%, etc, etc… Cars can be a PITA and a PITW (wallet)
