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304 Build options

J_D 2.0

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The only car I've ever had boil on me was my old VP wagon with about 0.5mm of pad left and rotors on min thickness with rusty brake fluid.

I'm the opposite of above. Build engine and when stuff brakes then upgrade.

You go the other way you might spend 2k on a diff then do the engine and shear an axle only to be told bigger better axles need a new diff at 3k plus 1k for axles.

Just make the power first then see what brakes.
Some guys get good life out of the old 4l60's just depends on you right foot. So if your right foot can blow or save components why bother upgrading until you actually know you have to.
Everyone says upgrade brakes on more powerful cars but the majority of the time it’s not actually required. You won’t be able to stop any sooner with upgraded brakes in initial application as both stock brakes and upgraded brakes will lock up at maximum application (if you don’t have ABS) so the limit is actually the tyres.

The real question is what type of driving are you doing? If your doing spirited mountain driving or doing track days then yes upgraded brakes are an absolute must but if it’s just a cruiser that’s only going to see a decently hard brake pedal application once or twice per drive upgraded brakes are actually wasted money.
 

MasterOfReality

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Type of driving will be the usual cruise with mates type of thing. No smashing it down mountain passes or anything like that.

I don't want to go overboard, as it hardly gets driven. Just after something that has a decent amount of poke and is fun to drive. Not too fussed if its a pig as its not a daily driver. I used to have a Mazda3 MPS and the Calais feels pretty slow in comparison haha.

At the moment, thinking about 3.7 or 3.9 gears (is 3.9 preferred with an auto?) and a transgo shift kit to start.

Then further on down the track a head and cam package with a tune. Seems to be 350 fwhp is the max with the bananas? Want to retain stock appearance if possible but not totally against a difference manifold.

Is there any benefit of getting a higher stall or should that wait until head/cam sorted and it can be matched with everything else?
 

Deuce

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If it's dedicated weekender go whatever diff ratio is easier to source. Or if the same go all out 3.9:1

I had 208rwhp with bananas at one stage. Not sure what that would be at flywheel. I had tidied the runners a bit and smoothed the neck short turn. Also a 70mm t/b.
 

gtrboyy

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4.11 if mainly cruising around & like to put the boot into it or occasional skid.

3.7 for better acceleration & going to spend time on freeways...it's best compromise for all-rounder type of thing as in not too short nor tall but able to daily if need be.

Decent stally & shorter gears on stocker with basic mods is basically getting most out of small amount of power stock engine has...makes the car feel quicker than it actually is & fun to drive hence most end up stopping at that level 'cos after that you really start spending money to make it faster.

I've found most cars fine on stock brakes even with extra 100hp or so.....except vn/p or cars left factory with front drums but vn/p have horrible pedal feel
 

afstruct

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If you are reasonably keen to keep stock look be on the lookout for a Starr manifold.
 

MasterOfReality

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It might do the occasional highway run, but its not like I'm going to be driving it to Sydney.

Is the Starr manifold drastically different to a stock one? I remember reading back in the day they fiddled with the throttle body but there were not other substantial changes, could be wrong through.
 

afstruct

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The Starr manifold is a stock manifold that they reworked.
They cut the neck off and welded a new neck that's bigger , takes a 90 mm throttle body . They also welded in a divider.
So can fit stock covers . If you fitted a mace CAI , that ,a larger throttle body and intake pipe are the only visual clues to not stock.
They make/do the manifolds anymore so second hand is it.
 

shane_3800

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The Starr manifold offers no benifit in power, it's a waste of money.
 

gtrboyy

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I agree so I'll take starr manifold off ya for a $1 then prove how horrendous it is....

MKAL do starr version of banana with ls 90mm throttle body.

Always going to have obvious limits in what bananas can do but it was never designed for outright performance...low comp engine with torque that achieved what it was meant to do at the time.
 
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