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Can worn Strut mounts be causing check power train light on?

NicoleVZ06UTE

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Vz 2006 Ute. I have a rattle/knocking noise that’s slowly got worse over 2months (5000k). Is Lou deaf at 60kmph and strangely more heard on fairly flat roads (or what seems to be flat but isn’t). No difference if brake is on/off, not really any difference on corners or speeds, not wind chatter tho can sound like it at times. I can make the knock knock if I do tyre warming pit lane driving -swaying down the street. Is in front and sounds like directly below stereo but deep in engine bay. Mechanic had a look- checked sway bars etc but said strut mount PS is loose and wheel has play/movement in and out (the strut dust boot cover is shot to **** and all that’s left is a broken plastic ring hanging around the strut). I Left to think about it and awaits price but now the Check power train light has come on. Could the suspension mounts being rooted cause this light to now come on?. I also have a burnt looking Engine control relay tho it’s been like that for a long time if that matters. Mechanic quoted new struts and mounts etc $1100 so will get him to plug in OBD but for now was hoping someone may know if strut mounts being loose can cause the Light on dash.
Cheers
 

Fu Manchu

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Plug a scan tool in and get the code. That will provide a starting point for investigating the fault.

Get all the front steering tiered ends, bushes and struts sorted and it will feel like new again.
 

NicoleVZ06UTE

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Vz 2006 Ute. I have a rattle/knocking noise that’s slowly got worse over 2months (5000k). Is Lou deaf at 60kmph and strangely more heard on fairly flat roads (or what seems to be flat but isn’t). No difference if brake is on/off, not really any difference on corners or speeds, not wind chatter tho can sound like it at times. I can make the knock knock if I do tyre warming pit lane driving -swaying down the street. Is in front and sounds like directly below stereo but deep in engine bay. Mechanic had a look- checked sway bars etc but said strut mount PS is loose and wheel has play/movement in and out (the strut dust boot cover is shot to **** and all that’s left is a broken plastic ring hanging around the strut). I Left to think about it and awaits price but now the Check power train light has come on. Could the suspension mounts being rooted cause this light to now come on?. I also have a burnt looking Engine control relay tho it’s been like that for a long time if that matters. Mechanic quoted new struts and mounts etc $1100 so will get him to plug in OBD but for now was hoping someone may know if strut mounts being loose can cause the Light on dash.
Cheers
Thanks all, plug in showed something about low fuel vapour on idle (was driving 70kmph when it went off first time so beats me) so prob a twitchy fuel vapour solenoid and just coincidence.
 

NicoleVZ06UTE

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Plug a scan tool in and get the code. That will provide a starting point for investigating the fault.

Get all the front steering tiered ends, bushes and struts sorted and it will feel like new again.
Do you mean to get them done as well as I’m pretty sure he’s just doing the struts and top mounts (all but the springs swap out I think he said). Should I look at getting him to do the control arms and joints too??
 

NicoleVZ06UTE

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Do you mean to get them done as well as I’m pretty sure he’s just doing the struts and top mounts (all but the springs swap out I think he said). Should I look at getting him to do the control arms and joints too??
Plug a scan tool in and get the code. That will provide a starting point for investigating the fault.

Get all the front steering tiered ends, bushes and struts sorted and it will feel like new again.
I should add it has 304,000 kms on it but it’s my pride and joy so I do try and look after it. The control arms and all those ball joints if what worried me in the first place as I don’t want one of those to go while driving seen as I have my 2yo in car with me all the time and car is getting on in age now and none of the suspension or steering stuff has ever been done. I do tell them (mechanics) to do anything that looks worn and not wait for things to go but I have a mechanic trust issue nowadays so I’m never sure they are actually hearing what I’m saying. The Mech I’ve not used before.
 

NicoleVZ06UTE

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Vz 2006 Ute. I have a rattle/knocking noise that’s slowly got worse over 2months (5000k). Is Lou deaf at 60kmph and strangely more heard on fairly flat roads (or what seems to be flat but isn’t). No difference if brake is on/off, not really any difference on corners or speeds, not wind chatter tho can sound like it at times. I can make the knock knock if I do tyre warming pit lane driving -swaying down the street. Is in front and sounds like directly below stereo but deep in engine bay. Mechanic had a look- checked sway bars etc but said strut mount PS is loose and wheel has play/movement in and out (the strut dust boot cover is shot to **** and all that’s left is a broken plastic ring hanging around the strut). I Left to think about it and awaits price but now the Check power train light has come on. Could the suspension mounts being rooted cause this light to now come on?. I also have a burnt looking Engine control relay tho it’s been like that for a long time if that matters. Mechanic quoted new struts and mounts etc $1100 so will get him to plug in OBD but for now was hoping someone may know if strut mounts being loose can cause the Light on dash.
Cheers
Hi all, finally found my thread again to update. Well I had all the front suspension replaced, struts and top mounts etc just used my old springs. The knock was gone for a while and I stopped bottoming out on some dips in the road and the old struts truely were knackered and wouldn’t even spring back once compressed as mechanic showed me them. However now a couple of months in the noise is back the same as it was and the mechanic just said oh it could be the other thing (god I’ve forgotten what it’s called) something arm? Now why wouldn’t you check that while you’re in there as a mechanic?. The suspension needed doing but I still have this knocking noise?. What else could it be and how easy is it to check.? I have also posted a thread about some new making fluid so thats my first priority but still want the noise gone so any ideas of what I can throw at the mechanic would be good please.
 

losh1971

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@vc commodore would likely have a pretty good idea on what's causing the knock.
 

vc commodore

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Only thing that could be an arm is the control arm......

Possible the bushes are shot causing the noise

You can buy replacements that have new balljoints and bushes already fitted, so it's unbolt the old control arms and bolt the new ones in
 

Fu Manchu

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Knock knock…
 
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