Changing heater tap

[Goo]

I've recently had a whole bunch of issues with my vt olympic wagon and i've had to replace the radiator and get the coolant flushed and hoses replaced and i've managed to rack up a huge bill.

After all that stuff was replaced, now the weakest link appears to be the heater tap, it's leaking coolant and from what i'm told it's not that hard to change it. I've obtained a copy of the service manuals, and the best i can find is a diagram pointing it out , calling it the "water valve".

I was wondering if anyone has posted a guide on this (i had a look but i couldn't find anything) or if they have any suggestions/advice on changing this? One thing i've picked up is that i should be careful when removing the heater hoses as i could damage the heater core.

Thanks

 

[Emackulation]

Lol, its a couple of hose clams and one vacume line you undo and then pull the hose off the ends of the heater tap then replace it. Easier then chaning the oil....

 

[Goo]

i'm sure it's easy for you but i really dont know much about cars but i want to learn

do i need to do something special with the vacuum line when i put it back on? will it gush out coolant when i unplug it? do i need to bleed the system after i do this?

thanks

 

[Cheap6]

i'm sure it's easy for you but i really dont know much about cars but i want to learn

do i need to do something special with the vacuum line when i put it back on? will it gush out coolant when i unplug it? do i need to bleed the system after i do this?

thanks

Yes, it will drop some coolant, how much depends on how quickly you can get the new part in and connected.

The hoses tend to stick so a slight twist before you remove them will help. The hose clamps will make it difficult to get the hose past the barb on the heater tap connections so need to be loosened off more than is required to simply release the hoses. Moving them back past the barb before attempting to remove the hose is best if you can.

The system will need to be bled after it is opened. Heater on, plastic cover over the engine off, and the bleed screw on the thermostat housing opened.

Coolant won't flow up hill so you need to use a funnel, sealed to the radiator (cap) inlet to enable the level of coolant to be raised above the level of the bleed screw.

Electrical tape wrapped around the neck of a Holden 1L coolant bottle with the bottom cut out works well as a funnel but virtually any plastic bottle can be made to work.

Fill the bottle/funnel with premixed coolant and wait for coolant to run in a steady stream out of the bleed hole. Repeat with the engine running before retightening the bleed screw.

Nothing special is required with the vacuum hose.

Forgot to add that if the old hoses are being re-used, the hose clamps should be lined up to the same position relative to the hose to minimise the possibility of leakage. To do this, tighten the hose clamps so that you can just rotate them on the hose and move them around until the end/screw clamp 'falls' into the indentation in the hose. They need to be oriented the same way in which they were originally but that will only be an issue if they fall off the ends of a hose.

 

[Goo]

Does anyone know if u can buy a good enough heater tap from Super cheap auto/Repco etc? I have not been able to get to a holden dealer whilst the spare parts dept is open.

 

[pablo]

Bought mine from Motor Traders in Adelaide, cheapest! Common part amongst the auto parts shops.
One thing, when you remove the tap, try not to pull or twist the hoses where they go through the firewall to the heater core. If the pipe which bolts to the heater core is disturbed, it may start the dreaded heater leak, which will require a possible 'dash out' operation to fix.
Don't ask how I know 'bout this!

Pablo

 

[commsirac]

In regards to losing coolant, do the job when the motor has cooled down and there wont be any pressure in there. Leave the radiator cap(when cold) on, so this will also slow the rate at which the coolant will drop out.
If you are not removing the hoses, then it is possible to do the job by only losing less than a cupful. The hoses can actually be clamped shut without damaging them, there are specific tools that can be used to do this(look like a plastic set of tin snips) that you can buy or improvise and make your own out of clamps at home.

 

[jdcasagrande]

Hi guys,

I have a holden vz executive, and on the left hand side towards the top of the engine under the engine cover my heater tap valve has a slight leak from where the pin inserts into the cooling system.

The valve does not always leak, it will usually only start leaking after a long trip. Also because of this leak i find that there are air bubbles in the cooling system which cause a gurgling sound when i start the engine.

Is it worth replacing the valve, the cost around $50 or could there be an underlying problem causing air pressure in the pipes to make the valve leak.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mynameisearl]

I got a new one for about $20 at natrad, but if its on it way out i'd replace it quickly, cos it very embarrassing when they go!......Mine went at a set of lights in the main street when i tried to get around a semi, i disappeared in a massive cloud of steam

 

[KustomKulture62]

4 heater hoses and a vaccuum line, we just cut through the hoses first and removed the unit then took off the hos parts left. New tap and hoses connected, topped up the coolant, bled the air and that's it 2 hours in total.