Correct caliper bolts

[Skylarking]

WOW! That has been exported to the US from HSPO and sold back cheaper... Madness

That’s your tax system at work

 

[wetwork65]

That’s your tax system at work

Like how Australian gas is remarkably cheaper overseas and the Eastern states keep saying they may not have enough gas supply to run their power stations, despite exporting shiploads from WA at low prices?
That's macroeconomics at it's best.
But I'm going completely off topic.

I don't understand if you aren't stressing bolts past yield why you would chuck them away.

 

[lmoengnr]

Holden wants you to replace them because they're micro encapsulated, they have thread locker applied during manufacture.
Loctite FTW...

 

[wetwork65]

Holden wants you to replace them because they're micro encapsulated, they have thread locker applied during manufacture.
Loctite FTW...

Yep - that's the blue stuff.

 

[wtrxprs007]

So after this thread went way off track about bolts, and to answer one of the questions, there is a difference between VE and VF standard PBR caliper bolts. VEs are an M12 and VF are M14.

I think the OP was asking for a part number for the VF M14 bolt.

 

[wetwork65]

So after this thread went way off track about bolts, and to answer one of the questions, there is a difference between VE and VF standard PBR caliper bolts. VEs are an M12 and VF are M14.

I think the OP was asking for a part number for the VF M14 bolt.

Post #8 seemed to provide the answer.
The discussion that came next was far more interesting.

I still do not understand why you would need to tighten any bolt to Yield, since then you will have lost so much of the strength of the bolt, going into non-linear stress/strain and plastic deformation?
Wrench suddenly become easy to turn when the bolt is beyond yield and the bolt is easy to shear.
i.e. an experienced person can probably feel yield happening.

Rules of thumb here https://www.hextechnology.com/articles/bolt-yield/

 

[Shen Long]

Simple answer is
FRONT M14 2.0mm x 45mm @ 10.9 Grade - (either Hex head flanged bolt or Hex head with washer are both fine)
REAR M12 2.0mm x 45mm @ 10.9 Grade - (either Hex head flanged bolt or Hex head with washer are both fine)

go to any reputable bolt/fastener place & a full set will set you back around $10 - $15
buy some medium strength Loctite thread locker & there’s your genuine GM $40 x 8 bolts ($320) for approx $30 in total

the above bolt length of 45mm is only if you’re running a BBK like Brembo’s or AP racing.
the bolt length on standard twin piston PBR type (standard brakes) is either 40mm or 35mm (& have the same specs as above)

brake bolts are NOT TTY or TTA, you can reuse them over n over as long as they’re in good condition & as long as you add a little mid strength thread locker once the thread locker seal has been broken

VF standard & BBK use M14 bolts (Front) & M12 (Rear), VE use M12 for the front & M12 for the rears (standard brakes only)…
again the same rules (bolt lengths etc) apply for BBK & standard brakes as outlined above for both VE & VF

if you’re upgrading to any BBK on a VE you need 2 types of bolts both the M12 (rear) & M14 (Front)
you’ll also need to either source VF front knuckles or simply just drill out the 12mm bolt holes using a 14mm drill bit to allow the M14 bolts to pass through the knuckle comfortably

the size/thread of the bolt can easily be tested by bringing in your callipers to the fastener place prior to purchasing any bolts

my 2c worth….

 

[Skylarking]

… brake bolts are NOT TTY or TTA, you can reuse them over n over as long as they’re in good condition & as long as you add a little mid strength thread locker once the thread locker seal has been broken…

Yeah it sounds plausible and that may indeed be the case but based on what? These bolts are definitely TTA according to the Holden VF workshop manual PDF page 2824 of 11631 which states the following:

12. Remove the brake caliper to knuckle mounting bolts (2) and discard.​

Note: The brake caliper to knuckle mounting bolts are single-use, and must be replaced whenever they are removed.​

1. Install the brake caliper (3) to the steering knuckle (1).
   
   Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.
   
   Note: Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the brake caliper to steering knuckle mounting bolts (2). Failure to comply may cause damage to the brake caliper to steering knuckle mounting bolts (2)
   
   
2. Install the NEW brake caliper anchor plate to front steering knuckle mounting bolts (2) and tighten to 40 N.m +90 degrees (30 lb ft +90 degrees).

Maybe it’s more than simply cleaning a bolt and adding loctite, just sayin

 

[Shen Long]

Yeah it sounds plausible and that may indeed be the case but based on what? These bolts are definitely TTA according to the Holden VF workshop manual PDF page 2824 of 11631 which states the following:

12. Remove the brake caliper to knuckle mounting bolts (2) and discard.​

​

Note: The brake caliper to knuckle mounting bolts are single-use, and must be replaced whenever they are removed.​

1. Install the brake caliper (3) to the steering knuckle (1).
   
   Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.
   
   Note: Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the brake caliper to steering knuckle mounting bolts (2). Failure to comply may cause damage to the brake caliper to steering knuckle mounting bolts (2)
   
   
2. Install the NEW brake caliper anchor plate to front steering knuckle mounting bolts (2) and tighten to 40 N.m +90 degrees (30 lb ft +90 degrees).

Maybe it’s more than simply cleaning a bolt and adding loctite, just sayin

We’ll I wouldn’t go n use an impact wrench on calliper bolts…. So definitely a +1 there

But so far, so good with everything else…
but then again I’m using after market bolts & mid strength thread locker

i just can’t not justify $40 or so per bolt from GM

if I’m to take a wild guess as to why the bolts are or would be TTA then I would guess due to the difference in metals of the callipers (Alloy) & the knuckle (Steel)