Crazing in primer

[VQXTC]

Hi all,

I am very new to painting, so here goes. I have an issue at the moment where I am getting a crazing cracking effect around the outside edge of my repairs. I have attached some pics to help illustrate the issue I am having.

This is the method that i follow at the moment for any repairs:

1. etch prime if sanding back to bare metal.
2. clean with wax and grease remover, then prime with 2k primer (3-4 coats)
3. guide coat over the primer.
4. Block back with 240 dry on a hard block.
5. Re-guide coat.
6. 500 on the orbital.
7. Wet rub with 800 wet n dry.
8. Top coat.

As I am spraying a metallic colour, I am doing 3-4 coats of colour then 2-3 coats of clear.

i am using acrylic top coat (Valspar) with Motorspray Acrylic Clear.

Let me know if this method is wrong or what i should change.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

 

[hi_ryder]

throw all your 1k products in the bin, buy 2k. paint strip car, start again.

Regards hi_ryder...

 

[VQXTC]

Thanx for the advice hi_ryder, however that is not an option.

I will persevere, thanx again.

I will post up the completed job once its finished.

Cheers,

 

[BOOSTER]

Hey buddy nothing wrong with the paint its only kicking up because you haven't feathered your edges properly,It's a bad repair you need to fix your nikki work.
Paint has nothing to do with it. Acrylic will show up any bad repairs or bad prep work.
Also i wouldn't go any smoother than 240 dry or 320 wet , any smoother and you will run into problems like pushing too hard on the paper and the paint flaking off unless the paint is still fresh , i use 1200 wet for fresh coats, the paint will tear if its too fresh just tap it back down and wait til its dry enough

 

[EYY]

Hey buddy nothing wrong with the paint its only kicking up because you haven't feathered your edges properly,It's a bad repair you need to fix your nikki work.
Paint has nothing to do with it. Acrylic will show up any bad repairs or bad prep work.
Also i wouldn't go any smoother than 240 dry or 320 wet , any smoother and you will run into problems like pushing too hard on the paper and the paint flaking off unless the paint is still fresh , i use 1200 wet for fresh coats, the paint will tear if its too fresh just tap it back down and wait til its dry enough

sorry mate, it has everything to do with compatibility of paint systems and preparation

I certainly wouldn't be using paper any coarser than 400 before topcoating. I've found 600 or 800 (for metallics) to be perfect.

 

[BOOSTER]

No nothing to do with paint!, it's what's under the paint that is the problem, simply a bad repair
Use what ever paper you found champ but i was taught
320 wet and 240 dry is fine enough for any solid and most metallics.
Some metallics will need a fresh coat or 400 as 320 will be too scratchy and you will see the scratches through the paint.

 

[VQXTC]

Thankyou very much everybody for the advice. I have redone the repair and have primed it today. Will be topcoating tomorrow, if I can get past this point I will have the car finished.

Thanx again for all the advice.

Cheers

 

[VQXTC]

Just a quick update, I finally managed to get the repair to work as expected. I have wet rubbed the whole car down with 1200, 1500 and 2000 grade paper. This is a pic of the DS guard after it has been polished (ignore the bonnet I am doing that separately).

Let me know what you guys think ?

Cheers

 

[VQXTC]

Ok car has been completed, except for the badges... Pretty happy with the result considering this is my first metallic car i have ever painted and the second car overall.

Thanx to everyone in this thread for their advice

 

[sleepa]

That looks pretty good :spot on:

I recently discovered that I hate painting metallics. Yours looks like it turned out very well.