Deuce
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Access to it for that is near impossible though.
Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.
Deuce's new daily - 1970 series2a LWB
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Skylarking
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New radiator works better
and is a lot more reliable ( and reliability is what one wants in a 4x4 as Murphy will make sure goop or soft solder will fails when one is out in the sticks far from help
)losh1971
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New radiator works better
( and reliability is what one wants in a 4x4 as Murphy will make sure goop or soft solder will fails when one is out in the sticks far from help
This has been suggested earlier but I think Deuce decided the cost was too much.
Skylarking
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Priorities can change if Deuce ever experiences a breakdown in the middle of nowhere
Deuce
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I hear what you guys are saying. But I'm already a ton in the hole with this truck. I really just want to go for a WOF check and see how we get on.
If it passes I do not mind putting a new radiator in later this year. I just don't want to fork out for a radiator now and then WOF check throws some other $$$ problem at me.
I really just need it to hold water until it is road legal. Anything after that is a bonus.
If it passes I do not mind putting a new radiator in later this year. I just don't want to fork out for a radiator now and then WOF check throws some other $$$ problem at me.
I really just need it to hold water until it is road legal. Anything after that is a bonus.
Skylarking
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Here’s some radiator repair viewing for your pleasure
Soldering and glue can be impacted negatively by not cleaning well enough. Me, I like the ghetto repair below as folding over pipework/tubes is something home aircon guys do to seal pressure in the system when pipes are cut
Problem you may have is the radiator looks heavily corroded so you may have lots of leaks to fix
Soldering and glue can be impacted negatively by not cleaning well enough. Me, I like the ghetto repair below as folding over pipework/tubes is something home aircon guys do to seal pressure in the system when pipes are cut
Problem you may have is the radiator looks heavily corroded so you may have lots of leaks to fix
Deuce
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Thanks @Skylarking I decided on the 2 tube metal epoxy resin as the solution.
I mixed it in a small plastic bag, cut the corner, shoved it close to where I need and squeezed bag with little needle nose pliers. Then used a nail as my applicator/negotiator to get it mostly where I need.
It was a bit tricky as it was sticky stuff and tight walls to get through to where I needed it.
Left it to dry, and then had a look with a torch and saw I had missed a small spot at the top of the split I was repairing.
No drama, scuff it up a bit, clean it, and try again.
I was setting up lights again, and did a big light from behind the radiator, snuck a peak to see how easy access was, and noticed this hole:
So decided I should take the radiator out before smearing more epoxy on it.
I mixed it in a small plastic bag, cut the corner, shoved it close to where I need and squeezed bag with little needle nose pliers. Then used a nail as my applicator/negotiator to get it mostly where I need.
It was a bit tricky as it was sticky stuff and tight walls to get through to where I needed it.
Left it to dry, and then had a look with a torch and saw I had missed a small spot at the top of the split I was repairing.
No drama, scuff it up a bit, clean it, and try again.
I was setting up lights again, and did a big light from behind the radiator, snuck a peak to see how easy access was, and noticed this hole:
So decided I should take the radiator out before smearing more epoxy on it.
Skylarking
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Curious to see how it will hold up when sealed
Deuce
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Yes, me too.Curious to see how it will hold up when sealed
Deuce
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So got those ones sorted.
And now we are just down to a drip (maybe at a rate of one drip per second rather than the constant flow of previous hole)
It's not a problem visible from the back side. So I will let it dry and try again tomorrow to see if I can accurately find leak point from the front side.
Otherwise I will initiate plan:B
And now we are just down to a drip (maybe at a rate of one drip per second rather than the constant flow of previous hole)
It's not a problem visible from the back side. So I will let it dry and try again tomorrow to see if I can accurately find leak point from the front side.
Otherwise I will initiate plan:B