Gearbox

[Garth]

well people, it's on again, gearbox troubles for my poor old girl. what more can i say.

well, here it is, this is what's going on

while driving the car, the gearbox changes are realy sharp, and seem to rev out pretty hard befor it will change, so i adjusted the kick down cable, and all is fine. that was easy but this the problem here

does anyone know why i have power from 0km up to 90km, and then from 91km upto 110km it seem so to have no power? it was fine before the new gearbox was put in but since that day it's just gone to ****. while driving between those speeds mention above, you can hear the engine realy labering. i havnt been able to get over 120kmphr since i have had the new gearbox put in. it has been back several times and i have even had the box ripped out and rebuild again, taking it to 2 rebuilds in 3 month's. (2nd rebuild was free) i also got a feeling it might be doing some sort of engine dammage. so im concerend. im not gonna take it back to the guy's who did it, i cant keep taking this car of the road, with the other vn getting a engine rebuild, taking it off the road isnt a option.


any ideas on something i could do at home.

cheers
garth

 

[AirStrike]

Sounds like it may be the planetry gears?? (Dad had a similar prob)

 

[OSL-060]

Garth, you say the engine is really labouring between 90-100kph. What gear is the auto in at this point without manual shifting? Manually changing any T700 behind a V6 VN should pull quite hard up to at least 110 holding it in second, 3rd- 160kph 4th- Beyond.

Jake.

 

[MaNiac_VP]

Sounds like a manual coz you keep reffering to it as a gearbox, but if its auto it could be your torque convertor is stuffed.
Something to do with the locking mechanism stuffing up maybe and causing a problem that puts heaps of resistance on the power train??

 

[OSL-060]

Maniac you could be on the mark with that, but you'd think being rebuilt twice the transmission guys would have tested the lock-up clutch in the converter. The idea of the lock up converter is to lock up it's two halves when the transmission catches up to engine rpm, avoiding slipping and driveline 'lag' if you want to call it that.
A stuffed lock up clutch would feel like its slipping rather than labouring with resistance.

My 2c anyway

Jake.

 

[Garth]

ok, let me clarify a bit for yall

auto box was originaly taken to the auto place for a rebuild after loosing 4th gear, was told it was the clutch for 3rd and 4th was gone. rebuild was done for me, took them 2 day's. i got it back and all was fine, it was abit low on oil so i filled her up a little bit and it went good for about 1 week, i started to notice that it was working extreamly hard in 4th gear, it would do the 1st, 2nd, 3rd change fine but 4th was a bit sticky (when i say sticky, it would sort of take a while to change between changing, it would hang about in no mans land between changes a little bit, then finaly go into 4th gear)

i took it back to them, and they ripped her out, i had a block in the oil flow big time, so they rebuilt the gearbox for me, and all was fine for a couple of day's. i noticed after a while i wasnt realy having any luck with 4th gear gain, i would increase throtle to gain speed in 4th and get no where, i took it back to shop and they said it was operating normaly for me, not sure if they are right there. basicaly, i inrease rev's and get no where, we put a after marked tacho on it, and in 4th gear, sittin on the 3500rpm mark i was strugling to gain any speed. it does feel like a slip in gear, every know and then it will "grab" 4th and work normaly, but when you drive it like a manual all is fine, 1st is good, 2nd is good, (you put it in drive with no square around the d and it works in 3rd, you put it into other drive with the square around the d and it changes into 4th, you then kick back to the d without the square and it kick's back to 3rd) all operating like it should

if it is the lock up clucth, can you disconect it like the vl? and if so, what effect and long term problems can i expect to have in the future? i mainly want to test the torque in car without ripping out the box it's self

help please people, this car is getting very close to being burnt

cheers
garth

p.s. the old auto box didnt have this problem, so unless they just put a different torque convertor into the new auto box that went back. all was fine and working good untill they replaced the auto box. i refuse to take it back to the auto place, they are just dicking me around to much with this problem. they keep telling me it's working normaly

 

[MaNiac_VP]

Disconnect it by removing your ash tray and snipping the pink wire (it may be pink and another colour, its been a while since ive seen it).
THat wire basically interacts with the ECU and tells the tranny when speed is over85 to lock the converter.

If you remove it, make sure you don't drive for hours at high speeds without it as it may cause the tranny to overheat.

But if you cut that wire and then it doesn't have a prblem over 90, then id say its the converter.
message back if you need more info, sorry im still hungover

 

[MaNiac_VP]

I got off my lazy ass and had a look, its the bottom one that connects to the tranny gearstick level.
Its Pink with a blue stripe riuning through it.

 

[markovr]

I remember a terminal in the ALDL near the computer that will have 12v on it when the lockup should be working
I put a multimeter on volts, one lead on this terminal and earthed the other lead to frame.
At the right speed you will see the 12v come on.

 

[OSL-060]

Yep the boys are right, like Maniac_VP said, just drive it long enough to see if the lock up is causing your drama's otherwise you'll be off for another rebuild Stick a decent sized tranny cooler on it if you have the time/money. They really should of been factory standard on all the T700's.