HELP NEEDED: VT II Commodore Engine Stalling.

[devilly]

it can stall if fuel filter is blocked.or the lines / injectors are dirty. run that injector cleaner through system, then change fuel filter,how does it stall, when accelerating ? when DE-accelerating ? when you brake ? do you light brake , medium brake , heavy brake. personal i hate it when the car stalls, as you loose all power assistant to brakes and steering ,
hope you get it sorted soon

 

[jughead1]

I too had an issue with stalling, but only when running on LPG. I thought it was an electrical fault at first, but turned out to be a vacuum leak.

It was an intermittent problem, and whenever I fiddled the electrical plugs near the mixer, that was enough to re-seal the leak, so the car would run again, until I hit a bump or something, and the seal was broken.

The little pipe from the gas shut-off solenoid to the LPG mixer was lose because it had turned hard. I replaced it with a new fuel pipe and problem fixed!

 

[Happy]

Pixelord,
Have you fixed your stalling problem ? Perhaps the stalling & vacuum leak are two different problems.

If the wide electrical plug on the DFI unit (the coil pack base) has a dirty or loose connection then the ignition can cut out or just miss at any speed or when idling.
It can also result in cranking but not starting until after varying lengths of time....or not at all.
Depending which wire is not contacting it can throw up wild error codes; I even had transmission fault codes logged.

Unplug it & clean male & female terminals with metho or electronic cleaner spray and a small brush. I got my spray from Jaycar.
My RAA mechanic suggested I tighten up the female wiring terminals.
He also confided that he had seen this problem on the road many times but never had a bad crank angle sensor show up.
I found that the end terminal with the thicker green wire had opened up a little, however I could not recommend squeezing it in (as I did successfully) as it is easy to make it worse as it is delicate & of a convoluted design.
When you reconnect the plug try not to wriggle it from side to side wildly as I get the impression this may be the reason for the terminal opening up.

This action worked for me & also for my mate who had given up & laid up his unreliable VT.
Just gently nipping up the plug attaching screw (7mm a/f?) only temporarily fixed the problem but got me home.

 

[pixelord]

Hi,

After the mechanic flushed the coolant, I started driving it in petrol, just to rule it out.
First day the engine didn't stall but the engine light came for a blink.
But I continued driving it on petrol and it has been 3 weeks and the car didn't miss a single bit.

Now to test, I drove the car in LPG after mid night (to get free road) and the car stalled twice!
So I thought may be there are still have some issue related to LPG and I booked an appointment to my regular LPG mechanic.
but before going to mechanic I gave it a test drive and this time it didn't stall. But the in LPG it was bit rough in idle.

In the LPG mechanic I got the LPG tuned and I drove it in LPG for an hour, it was smooth and no stalling.

So, in summary, after flushing the Coolant, it seems like fixed the issue.
Not sure, if there is any logic behind it. Please let me know if you guys have any though about it.
I'll test drive in LPG more to make sure the problem is completely gone.

Thanks.

 

[pixelord]

Pixelord,
Have you fixed your stalling problem ? Perhaps the stalling & vacuum leak are two different problems.

If the wide electrical plug on the DFI unit (the coil pack base) has a dirty or loose connection then the ignition can cut out or just miss at any speed or when idling.
It can also result in cranking but not starting until after varying lengths of time....or not at all.
Depending which wire is not contacting it can throw up wild error codes; I even had transmission fault codes logged.

Unplug it & clean male & female terminals with metho or electronic cleaner spray and a small brush. I got my spray from Jaycar.
My RAA mechanic suggested I tighten up the female wiring terminals.
He also confided that he had seen this problem on the road many times but never had a bad crank angle sensor show up.
I found that the end terminal with the thicker green wire had opened up a little, however I could not recommend squeezing it in (as I did successfully) as it is easy to make it worse as it is delicate & of a convoluted design.
When you reconnect the plug try not to wriggle it from side to side wildly as I get the impression this may be the reason for the terminal opening up.

This action worked for me & also for my mate who had given up & laid up his unreliable VT.
Just gently nipping up the plug attaching screw (7mm a/f?) only temporarily fixed the problem but got me home.

That is very good information!
Thanks for you detailed post Happy!

 

[Nut Kracker]

So, in summary, after flushing the Coolant, it seems like fixed the issue.
Not sure, if there is any logic behind it. Please let me know if you guys have any though about it.

There is logic in relation to the coolant and the LPG system.
The LPG convertor relies heavily on the coolant to keep the convertor warm, so the gas doesn't freeze.

Hoses from the engine run through the convertor to heat it. So if there is
something amiss with the cooling system, eg. bad thermostat (stuck open), low coolant level etc.
It can cause the convertor to freeze up and therefore, freeze the gas.