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Holden Commodore Limited Edition models

ProfMopar

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ask your dealer for a screen shot of your workbench order which shows the build date the delivery date and your GMON.

Your dealer will log into SOM which is the system they use to place orders with factory, and do the screen shot and send it to you.
Thanks for that, Sir. I'll give my dealer a tinkle and make sure everything's tickety-boo. It's interesting, one of the dealership chaps has slated me October delivery, citing probable September build, but another chap there said Holden is trying to finish up most of production well before the October deadline; this latter fella believes all the LEs will have been built by July/August! Personally, I'm kind of hoping on the later build for both simple logistical and financial reasons, and also because I specifically wanted a MY17 to have the last Holden model, so to have a last 1-2 month of production car is for me a bit of a bonus.
 

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Are they reliable? Does it void the warranty? Seems almost 2 grand cheaper than Walkinshaw which is great.


They're reliable and well known, watch this video for more info.
All modifications of this type void the car's driveline warranty. Walkinshaw charge you more because they take over the driveline warranty, but most people say this isn't worth the money, especially given they use standard tunes rather than custom tunes. C&A warranty their own products/work like all tuners. The upgrade is essentially bolt-ons and the LS engines have been around and been modified forever. It's a pretty low risk IMO.
 

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Just had a chat to a reputable tuner in adelaide about walkinstick packs
All figures rwkw (approximate, variable depending on trans etc)
Standard Holden ls3/ 220-230
W375 280-290
W407 300-310

Has anyone got any real world results to compare these 2?
 

ProfMopar

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Are they reliable? Does it void the warranty? Seems almost 2 grand cheaper than Walkinshaw which is great.
Dear Maester, I though I'd address your question here; I hope you don't mind.

G'day Prof. I read your posts about the Walkinshaw packages and I respect your analysis.
I'm soon-to-be a new MSE owner. I haven't owned a V8 before. I like the idea of being able to do performance upgrades for the MSE, just to distinguish it from . However, I'm not sure which direction to go if I do want to upgrade. From what I know, people go for Walkinshaw for the name and the warranty (Holden warranty is intact or something like that), but it may not be good value for the KW per dollar perspective. Others (such as C & A) are cheaper but I'm unsure about quality/warranty etc.

If you don't mind sharing your thoughts, I'd appreciate some guidance as to what I can consider for performance upgrades that in your books are worth the money. Thanks very much in advance!

I'm not sure I'm the best person for advice here as I don't know the actual details and costs of the various tuners' packages. However, it would seem to me, based on a 35 year "career" street racing and tinkering, that most of the power claims are rather generous. Moreover, when their packages are actually put to the test on the dragstrip, as opposed to their own in-house dyno, I have yet to see one claim that stacks up. Of course, none of this helps you, so based on my experience and the published real-world performance of these packages, I can give you some rough guidelines.

CAIs/OTRs are probably similar re performance from one tuner to another; I suspect they vary by less than 10kW. Of course, a decent CAI/OTR is worth about a 7% power increase over a stock, under hood source. This 7% number was typical for the old carby engines of the 60s. On a stock LS3, this could mean up to 20kW, but bear in mind that the stock LS3 doesn't source pure under hood air - it seems to be a partial CAI already. Hence, the gain from an aftermarket CAI is probably less than 20kW.

Similarly with aftermarket exhaust systems, the actual performance differences amongst themselves are probably small, 10kW at most. They are undoubtedly better than the stock set-up, but again, the gain wouldn't be huge for a stock engine (that is, stock cam, heads, and displacement) - something like 20kW would be the best one could hope for.

Next, the ECU "tune". This magical entity is the modern equivalent of changing the carb jetting and the ignition timing curve. If either the exhaust or CAI is changed appreciably from stock, such a tune makes sense if the stock system is unable to change these things (air/fuel mixture, ignition timing) by itself. My understanding was that the stock units aren't stupid; that is, they CAN adjust for changes in intake air temperature (as caused by a good CAI), and ignition timing. However, the factory has to set these up so as to meet emissions requirements and to maximise fuel economy at the expense of power output. Hence, the aftermarket tunes, if they are to improve performance at all, must be prepared to worsen emissions and fuel economy - something which most of us here probably won't be too fussed about. Typically, on a stock engine, changing the ignition curve and total advance could be expected to gain 5-10hp (=3-7kW) over the WHOLE rpm range. If one is prepared to run 98 RON in their LS3, changing the ignition curve alone could be expected to yield as much as 7kW. Enriching the mixture through the entire rpm to yield the best air/fuel ratio for power output could pick up another 25hp (=18kW). But of course, engines work as integrated systems, and these modifications add synergistically. So changing both A/F mixture AND ignition timing could gain 30kW on a stocker.

Now, add all three modifications together (Exhaust, CAI, ECU tune), and one could expect something like a 60kW at best. However, all the road tests I've seen on similarly modified tuner packages suggest 40-50kW is more likely. This probably reflects the fact that the stock engines are pretty darn good already. After all, a stock LS3 pushes a 1850kg VF 2 (with driver) to flat 13s at almost 112mph - that's flying!

As I mentioned, I don't know enough about the various tuners' actual systems and costs, but one could assume fairly reliably that by doing the CAI/Exhaust/Tune combo, you'll gain 40-50kW. Now that's about 55-65hp in the old language. You'll feel that, seat-of-the-pants, no worries, and in a VF 2, should be able to pull a 12.5 quarter if conditions are right, and you hook up. I reckon anyone, bar Mr Di Natale of the Greens, would be pretty pleased with that.
Now, the Walkinshaw fellas go one step further and change the bumpstick, and although this doesn't get you up to 407kW, it DOES get another 10-20kW over and above the CAI/Exhaust/Tune combo in principle. Plus you get the lumpy idle, and who doesn't love that? Mr Di Natale, I guess. I will point out though, that the road test of the W407 package didn't even look like it was 40kW over stock, so I don't know what's going on there, but I think you could be confident that most of the time, by changing the cam as well as the basic CAI/Exhaust/Tune combo, a genuine 50-70kW could be gained. And that would make for a lot of fun, good, clean, apple pie fun.
Want more? The next place to look would be the heads, and next, heads AND displacement. Now things are becoming serious; I'd keep a change of underwear in the glovebox.

I know this hasn't addressed the detailed reply you sought, but I hope it helps you see the whole thing in perspective. All the best, and let us all know what you eventually do, and how it goes.
 

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@monstar
Can you confirm diameter etc on the 340 headers?
@ others. The standard headers make more bottom end torque. So they're maybe a better option from a daily drivabilty perspevtive...Bigger ain't always better. Just sayin guys and girls? Haha!

hers's the pick, top the 317/325 headers 2 1/4" and the 340 headers below at 2 1/2"
upload_2017-4-21_6-15-46.png




Bigjim92's photos and I think hes fitted these to his VFII
 

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hers's the pick, top the 317/325 headers 2 1/4" and the 340 headers below at 2 1/2"
View attachment 191461



Bigjim92's photos and I think hes fitted these to his VFII
Thanks Blackve76, that's great.
I won't know which ones I've got until they arrive. But they're off a 2016 Black SV 340, so I think they'll be the larger ones.
At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter. They're both good. I have read the 2.25"s are better in the low to mid range. 2.5" are better in the upper rev range. It makes sense.
 

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Dear Maester, I though I'd address your question here; I hope you don't mind.

G'day Prof. I read your posts about the Walkinshaw packages and I respect your analysis.
I'm soon-to-be a new MSE owner. I haven't owned a V8 before. I like the idea of being able to do performance upgrades for the MSE, just to distinguish it from . However, I'm not sure which direction to go if I do want to upgrade. From what I know, people go for Walkinshaw for the name and the warranty (Holden warranty is intact or something like that), but it may not be good value for the KW per dollar perspective. Others (such as C & A) are cheaper but I'm unsure about quality/warranty etc.

If you don't mind sharing your thoughts, I'd appreciate some guidance as to what I can consider for performance upgrades that in your books are worth the money. Thanks very much in advance!

I'm not sure I'm the best person for advice here as I don't know the actual details and costs of the various tuners' packages. However, it would seem to me, based on a 35 year "career" street racing and tinkering, that most of the power claims are rather generous. Moreover, when their packages are actually put to the test on the dragstrip, as opposed to their own in-house dyno, I have yet to see one claim that stacks up. Of course, none of this helps you, so based on my experience and the published real-world performance of these packages, I can give you some rough guidelines.

CAIs/OTRs are probably similar re performance from one tuner to another; I suspect they vary by less than 10kW. Of course, a decent CAI/OTR is worth about a 7% power increase over a stock, under hood source. This 7% number was typical for the old carby engines of the 60s. On a stock LS3, this could mean up to 20kW, but bear in mind that the stock LS3 doesn't source pure under hood air - it seems to be a partial CAI already. Hence, the gain from an aftermarket CAI is probably less than 20kW.

Similarly with aftermarket exhaust systems, the actual performance differences amongst themselves are probably small, 10kW at most. They are undoubtedly better than the stock set-up, but again, the gain wouldn't be huge for a stock engine (that is, stock cam, heads, and displacement) - something like 20kW would be the best one could hope for.

Next, the ECU "tune". This magical entity is the modern equivalent of changing the carb jetting and the ignition timing curve. If either the exhaust or CAI is changed appreciably from stock, such a tune makes sense if the stock system is unable to change these things (air/fuel mixture, ignition timing) by itself. My understanding was that the stock units aren't stupid; that is, they CAN adjust for changes in intake air temperature (as caused by a good CAI), and ignition timing. However, the factory has to set these up so as to meet emissions requirements and to maximise fuel economy at the expense of power output. Hence, the aftermarket tunes, if they are to improve performance at all, must be prepared to worsen emissions and fuel economy - something which most of us here probably won't be too fussed about. Typically, on a stock engine, changing the ignition curve and total advance could be expected to gain 5-10hp (=3-7kW) over the WHOLE rpm range. If one is prepared to run 98 RON in their LS3, changing the ignition curve alone could be expected to yield as much as 7kW. Enriching the mixture through the entire rpm to yield the best air/fuel ratio for power output could pick up another 25hp (=18kW). But of course, engines work as integrated systems, and these modifications add synergistically. So changing both A/F mixture AND ignition timing could gain 30kW on a stocker.

Now, add all three modifications together (Exhaust, CAI, ECU tune), and one could expect something like a 60kW at best. However, all the road tests I've seen on similarly modified tuner packages suggest 40-50kW is more likely. This probably reflects the fact that the stock engines are pretty darn good already. After all, a stock LS3 pushes a 1850kg VF 2 (with driver) to flat 13s at almost 112mph - that's flying!

As I mentioned, I don't know enough about the various tuners' actual systems and costs, but one could assume fairly reliably that by doing the CAI/Exhaust/Tune combo, you'll gain 40-50kW. Now that's about 55-65hp in the old language. You'll feel that, seat-of-the-pants, no worries, and in a VF 2, should be able to pull a 12.5 quarter if conditions are right, and you hook up. I reckon anyone, bar Mr Di Natale of the Greens, would be pretty pleased with that.
Now, the Walkinshaw fellas go one step further and change the bumpstick, and although this doesn't get you up to 407kW, it DOES get another 10-20kW over and above the CAI/Exhaust/Tune combo in principle. Plus you get the lumpy idle, and who doesn't love that? Mr Di Natale, I guess. I will point out though, that the road test of the W407 package didn't even look like it was 40kW over stock, so I don't know what's going on there, but I think you could be confident that most of the time, by changing the cam as well as the basic CAI/Exhaust/Tune combo, a genuine 50-70kW could be gained. And that would make for a lot of fun, good, clean, apple pie fun.
Want more? The next place to look would be the heads, and next, heads AND displacement. Now things are becoming serious; I'd keep a change of underwear in the glovebox.

I know this hasn't addressed the detailed reply you sought, but I hope it helps you see the whole thing in perspective. All the best, and let us all know what you eventually do, and how it goes.

Good post Proffessori!
I reckon your power estimates are about right. Maybe 70-80kw increase for headers and hi flow cats, full system, the right lumpy and a CAI ( as you know, it's not just temp, but better flow, adding volume where the good ones add power). Tune is a given, and necessary. Even a good OTR on its own will throw an engine light. Because the increased flow is outside the parameters of the stock tune. Another indicator that they work...
See Flo Rida's recent posts. His Cammed VF2 auto pulled an 11.85 1/4! The dyno said 328rwkw or about 440rwhp. So that's say 90-100rwkw over stock. You'd probably say happy dyno? You may well be correct, if you did think that? But, it's a quick car! ~1.3 sec faster than stock. He also dusted his mates tuned FGXR8 with an extra hundred ponies! I'm interested to know if you think the E/T, 60ft time etc matches the power and tq considering all other known variables?
Cheers!
 

EternityDre

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Just as an aside, C&A auto regularly post dyno results on their FB page, the 385 pack returns 300rwkw. I know it's just a dyno, but they are consistent. I'll share mine once it's done.
 

EternityDre

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Anyone started to get insurance quotes for their MSE yet? Just rang Shannons to get a benchmark quote and wanted to share.
Firstly, they full stop won't insure me at my current apartment. They require secure, undercover parking to even consider the policy.
After I assured them I'm looking to move places to somewhere with a secure park, we went through the process and I got two quotes.
$73k agreed value (car price) for $2200/year.
$80k agreed value (car + my modifications) $2300/year.
Factors influencing this price: It will be my daily drive and there will be some finance on the car.
FYI bit about me, I'm 32, no previous claims or history that would negatively impact the quote, I live in Malvern VIC so an affluent area.

Anyone else able to share any insurance quotes at this point? Any ideas for insurers other than Shannons who'll insure this kind of car with mods?
 

ProfMopar

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Good post Proffessori!
I reckon your power estimates are about right. Maybe 70-80kw increase for headers and hi flow cats, full system, the right lumpy and a CAI ( as you know, it's not just temp, but better flow, adding volume where the good ones add power). Tune is a given, and necessary. Even a good OTR on its own will throw an engine light. Because the increased flow is outside the parameters of the stock tune. Another indicator that they work...
See Flo Rida's recent posts. His Cammed VF2 auto pulled an 11.85 1/4! The dyno said 328rwkw or about 440rwhp. So that's say 90-100rwkw over stock. You'd probably say happy dyno? You may well be correct, if you did think that? But, it's a quick car! ~1.3 sec faster than stock. He also dusted his mates tuned FGXR8 with an extra hundred ponies! I'm interested to know if you think the E/T, 60ft time etc matches the power and tq considering all other known variables?
Cheers!
If your frond's VF2 is pulling 11.85 without any driveline changes, that would suggest the engine is making an extra ~120hp (=90kW) over stock. Now that's what you'd expect the W407 to be doing. Find out who the tuner was - that guy clearly knows how to do it! If there have been any driveline changes; specifically, rear axle ratio, then the terminal speed will be a more reliable way of assessing the performance gain.
 
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