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Holden Commodore Limited Edition models

Director037

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Thanks for that - much appreciated and very informative
 

Komet163

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The "secret" to running in engines is to load them progressively without getting them hot. In practice, this means half to three quarter throttle accelerations in middle gears (3rd, 4th) up to 3000-3500rpm over the first few hours (about 300km). Ideally, this is done over multiple shorter trips (10-50km) with complete cool down between drives. From 300km to 1000km, keep these up, and add some full throttle blasts up to 4000rpm, and you can start longer load runs in 5th gear. From 1000km to 1500-2000km, wide open throttle in 3rd, 4th, 5th, to 5000rpm is your limit. After that, you're done.
Note: Experience suggests the loading is even better with a bit of weight on board (4 blokes, for instance). And remember, avoiding the engine becoming hot is paramount.....keep the trips short, avoid days over 30C and prolonged traffic stops if possible.
Regarding actual road speed, this is all about the rear axle, and, to a lesser extent, the transmission. Holden's 0-1000km 110 limit is an arbitrary (for obvious reasons) suggestion to avoid rear axle overheating. As a builder of several diffs, I can state that they do get hotter more easily when new. Ideally, we run 'em in initially with no load for 20 mins at 50km/h wheel speed (jacked up, wheels spinning freely). Then a complete cool down, lube top-up, and run it in similarly to the engine procedure above. Obviously, new Holdens are delivered with several km on the clock, so this initial run in has already been done in one way or another. I agree with Holden's advice up to 1000km, although once you've done 2000km, I think you can perform brief excursions above 200km/h without risking overheating.
Concluding: the salient points are that loading is good (although labouring in gears too tall is not), and overheating is the biggest problem. Holden know that if their recommendations are followed, powertrain overheating is unlikely.
Regarding long term oil consumption, the run-in procedure affects this little: if an engine is gonna burn too much oil (due to large ring clearances or valve stem clearances) ain't nothin' gonna change that short of running 80W-140 motor oil (no good!). With a well built engine with the correct clearances everywhere, you'd be hard-pressed to make it an oil-burner no matter how much you thrashed it. Of course, you would have a hand in reducing its service life.
Have a good time, running in is fun with all that partial, then full throttle midrange accelerations. Bring your mates along, but keep road speeds reasonable. Stop first for a good long lunch, then afternoon coffee; the car will benefit from the cool down. Once you've hit 2000-3000km, you can race it if you like. Once you've hit 8000-10,000km, the engine will be at its sweetspot - maximum power/efficiency with little wear....a good time to fit your Walkinshaw "407" stuff!


I think I might owe you a beer or two for all the good gen!
You have also dispelled a few myths about running in a car. Always thought related to oil consumption and wear. Will be following your guidelines for the next 1500ks or so and yes it will be fun.
Can't help feeling a bit empty about the end of the line with these V8 cars. Reality setting in....
 

426Cuda

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The "secret" to running in engines is to load them progressively without getting them hot. In practice, this means half to three quarter throttle accelerations in middle gears (3rd, 4th) up to 3000-3500rpm over the first few hours (about 300km). Ideally, this is done over multiple shorter trips (10-50km) with complete cool down between drives. From 300km to 1000km, keep these up, and add some full throttle blasts up to 4000rpm, and you can start longer load runs in 5th gear. From 1000km to 1500-2000km, wide open throttle in 3rd, 4th, 5th, to 5000rpm is your limit. After that, you're done.
Note: Experience suggests the loading is even better with a bit of weight on board (4 blokes, for instance). And remember, avoiding the engine becoming hot is paramount.....keep the trips short, avoid days over 30C and prolonged traffic stops if possible.
Regarding actual road speed, this is all about the rear axle, and, to a lesser extent, the transmission. Holden's 0-1000km 110 limit is an arbitrary (for obvious reasons) suggestion to avoid rear axle overheating. As a builder of several diffs, I can state that they do get hotter more easily when new. Ideally, we run 'em in initially with no load for 20 mins at 50km/h wheel speed (jacked up, wheels spinning freely). Then a complete cool down, lube top-up, and run it in similarly to the engine procedure above. Obviously, new Holdens are delivered with several km on the clock, so this initial run in has already been done in one way or another. I agree with Holden's advice up to 1000km, although once you've done 2000km, I think you can perform brief excursions above 200km/h without risking overheating.
Concluding: the salient points are that loading is good (although labouring in gears too tall is not), and overheating is the biggest problem. Holden know that if their recommendations are followed, powertrain overheating is unlikely.
Regarding long term oil consumption, the run-in procedure affects this little: if an engine is gonna burn too much oil (due to large ring clearances or valve stem clearances) ain't nothin' gonna change that short of running 80W-140 motor oil (no good!). With a well built engine with the correct clearances everywhere, you'd be hard-pressed to make it an oil-burner no matter how much you thrashed it. Of course, you would have a hand in reducing its service life.
Have a good time, running in is fun with all that partial, then full throttle midrange accelerations. Bring your mates along, but keep road speeds reasonable. Stop first for a good long lunch, then afternoon coffee; the car will benefit from the cool down. Once you've hit 2000-3000km, you can race it if you like. Once you've hit 8000-10,000km, the engine will be at its sweetspot - maximum power/efficiency with little wear....a good time to fit your Walkinshaw "407" stuff!
Hey Dr MOPAR,
Good advice. That's pretty much the run in approach I took on route to Bathurst and the Holden Dream Cruise.
What are your thoughts on poor run in procedures causing bore glazing and or poorly bedded rings?
 

HemiMagic

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Yes, greed in an unbalanced market. They may have misread things as you say. Maybe a few VF owners will trade up to the VF2? I wouldn't be surprised if a few are waiting to check out the new pretend not so Commondore when it arrives at the dealerships. They'll all sell eventually though.

I will keep my L77 Redline thanks.
 

RedMSE

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The MRC service message has appeared again. It would suggest that the MSE does not like windy undulating roads. This time the service code would not go away after two restarts. As I had to attend a meeting for several hours I restarted the car after this period and the service code did not appear. Maybe something had cooled down. I think I will booking the car in for a warranty serviceView attachment 196136

Hi zappaboy, you could be onto something there. The time my error message appeared was midday on a hot day after coming down a bumpy moutain pass. Would be great if you could keep us all updated on what your dealer says.
 

zappaboy

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Hi RedMSE. I will keep you posted on any developments. I have spoken to the dealer over the phone to the service technician I deal with and trust and have good relationship with but he says he has spoken to the floor technicians and they have not seen this message on LE models or HSV which they were a dealer. I have not taken the MSE in for a checkup though. I posted this matter on other forums where other people have experienced this message and it has gone away and they have taken it to the dealer who did not find any error codes in the system. Also my research using Dr Google with posts from the US with other GM products that use MRC mostly Cadillacs and I think large SUV would suggest a bad connection that gets wet and brings up the message. My scenario would equate to this in regard that both times the MSE was being driven in very wet conditions when the message appeared and the vehicle had time to "dry" out when it was restarted and the message went away. All of this may be just coincidence. Note the MSE operated normally during the message period and it has not appeared since but also the car has not been driven and it is locked away from me so I do not drive it as it is very addictive. The MSE is two months and has already done 3800kms and I hoping to just do 5000kms a year in it. The dilemma between low kms or more enjoyment.
 

16SSWag

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upload_2017-11-24_14-31-36.png

First ute I have seen in the wild
 
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