How's your 4l60e going?

[nick_]

If you're doing burnouts then stick a thermofan on the trans cooler. Problem solved.

 

[HSV08]

I've wasted the 2-4 apply band on mine. But that was due to already doing 190 and then being strapped behind a stroked and cammed motor. Transcooler fitted but shifts were sloppy due to engine not needing much throttle to move and low tps voltages when changing gears. This caused it to take for every to change cause it would think the cars just cruising. Slip was yuk. But now new one has a corvette servo and trans tuned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shadetreemechanic]

Agree with most comments above.

Mine is stock as a rock behind a stock engine but it does get flogged often. Best thing to do is change fluid when it starts looking off colour. I do it about once a year or so running Castrol dexIII. Do a search how to change fluid without removing the pan.

An extra cooler is good but be aware you shouldn't bypass the rad as that is way more efficient at dissipating heat than a standard size oil to air cooler.

Edit: deleted wrong info about 3rd

 

[st3r3otyp3]

To the OP get it if it has the recommended trans service intervals completed, after that a full flush including torque converter + filter and install a cooler and enjoy your trans.
There are 2 more things that can help. 1 is always drive with pwr on, 2 is a inline filter called Magnefine that you can install in the engine bay rubber lines that can trap heaps of small particles that your standard filter can not.

 

[shadetreemechanic]

Driving with pwr on isn't recommended, all it does is shift at higher rpm and slightly up the line pressure. If you want firmer shifts get a tune.
Pwr mode is used for towing only and it will waste fuel for no reason otherwise

 

[TI3VOM]

Driving with pwr on isn't recommended, all it does is shift at higher rpm and slightly up the line pressure. If you want firmer shifts get a tune.
Pwr mode is used for towing only and it will waste fuel for no reason otherwise

The1 who's on this forum (I think it was him) said that the power switch also changes the tune in the ECU slightly which in fact should give more power. I'm still in a little bit of doubt about it though, but he's the one who tunes the bloody things.

 

[shadetreemechanic]

The1 who's on this forum (I think it was him) said that the power switch also changes the tune in the ECU slightly which in fact should give more power. I'm still in a little bit of doubt about it though, but he's the one who tunes the bloody things.

Yeah the power button switches over to a second predefined tune table. It holds on to gears longer and thus shifts at higher rpm points. Also called tow mode, coz if you have a trailer full of sand going up a hill that's exactly what you want.

As I said, it's not really useful as is. Get a tune to firm up the shifts but keep the original shift points (could be done by messing with the pwr table itself I assume so then you can press the switch and enable your custom tune)

 

[Pollushon]

Agree with most comments above.

Mine is stock as a rock behind a stock engine but it does get flogged often. Best thing to do is change fluid when it starts looking off colour. I do it about once a year or so running Castrol dexIII. Do a search how to change fluid without removing the pan.

An extra cooler is good but be aware you shouldn't bypass the rad as that is way more efficient at dissipating heat than a standard size oil to air cooler.

Also, if your engine is FI or a V8 you should start in third before giving it the boot as manual third applies extra overrun clutches on the 3rd gear shift which is a known weak link

If your fluid is off colour you really should replace the filter and clean the magnet or you’re just adding clean fluid to dirty stuff you can’t get out of the convertor without a flush, as well as a whole bunch of sediment.

I think the experiment I’ve been doing the last 12 months/20k debunks the idea of the rad cooler. In fact I wouldn’t even go so far as calling it a cooler, it’s more a stabiliser. Cold fluid is as bad as overheating fluid. The idea of the rad tank is to warm up the fluid quickly and keep it at a stable temp, on the proviso your cooling system is functioning correctly. At no point does this fluid go through any sort of cooling process, it goes in and out of the tank. Still an optimally running Eco system runs at temps over 100c. While the rad wouldn’t get quite that hot, the optimal temp for fluid is about 85c. So in a poorly maintained cooling system, that fluid can get really hot, cook and leave deposits.

I’ve mounted my trans cooler to the rad with nylon screws and thermal tape. This way it can still warm the fluid but it also gets a nice injection of cooling air, either moving or via thermo fan. It’s also a decent stacked plate cooler. So far using an NTC sensor, my fluid hasn’t passed 92.6c and has averaged 83.2c, no matter how hard I push it, that's perfect. There is also a noticeable difference in the quality of fluid via the dipstick. I’ll be changing it in coming weeks, so I’m keen to see what it all looks like.

The1 who's on this forum (I think it was him) said that the power switch also changes the tune in the ECU slightly which in fact should give more power. I'm still in a little bit of doubt about it though, but he's the one who tunes the bloody things.

No it doesn't. The1, Delco, immortality dismissed it. I used to think the same thing but head over to PCM hacking and you'll see the switch only affects the trans map, not ECU (like ignition, AFR, etc..). Drops the shift/kickback points vs. RPM and speed, increases line pressure and holds gears longer as shady said.

If anything using PWR is better on the trans, like a shift kit and/or corvette servo, the idea it's 'bad' is silly, no offence. I've had mine on for 75% of my cars life (since 2006 and 80k). There's no frivolous TC lockups (you know at 50kmh cruising on a side street) and less changes up down the range overall because it holds gears. These are the things that wear out clutch packs. If you know your right foot well, you can manage changes below 3k rpm anyway, so the motor doesn't have to scream.

 

[someguy360]

As Pollushon said it's actually better in day to day driving to have the PWR button on as this prevents unnecessary TC lockup (which happens around 50-55km/h) which will wear things out much faster.

 

[TI3VOM]

No it doesn't. The1, Delco, immortality dismissed it. I used to think the same thing but head over to PCM hacking and you'll see the switch only affects the trans map, not ECU (like ignition, AFR, etc..). Drops the shift/kickback points vs. RPM and speed, increases line pressure and holds gears longer as shady said.

If anything using PWR is better on the trans, like a shift kit and/or corvette servo, the idea it's 'bad' is silly, no offence. I've had mine on for 75% of my cars life (since 2006 and 80k). There's no frivolous TC lockups (you know at 50kmh cruising on a side street) and less changes up down the range overall because it holds gears. These are the things that wear out clutch packs. If you know your right foot well, you can manage changes below 3k rpm anyway, so the motor doesn't have to scream.

That's weird, I swear he commented saying that it was correct.
Maybe I misread it?
The annoying thing is that I can't find that thread anymore.