Knocking Noise... Sv6 Top back right Piston area (Facing Car)

[Skylarking]

The thing that caught my attention was, the knocking noise was there then disappeared after an oil and filter change...It then re appeared....

Maybe it has some crud stuck in a lifter or two? That's where I'd be looking...

Maybe even do an engine flush to clean all the crud out and see what happens from there

Which was exactly why I initially thought a blocked oil screen under the oil sender but that’s only V8 thing and only for AFM DOD (VLOM filter) equiped engines, so not relevant to V6’s.

I think a video with audio from a mechanics stethoscope would be the best at trying to track down what’s the cause of the noise… but not so easy to make…

Otherwise whatever lives in the read left bank of the V6 may be the cause. The fact that the noise follows the speed of the engine leads me to think sticky lifters because purge valve noise shouldn’t be linked to engine speed (one would think)...

I worry about using engine flush in vehicles that may have had poor oil and oil filter change routines because lots of crud may have built up internally and oil flush can loosen it so it moves around and blocks more things?

But there are many threads on the subject of oil flush and some like to take the slower diesel oil route with a few speedy oil filter change every few 100 kms(?) and an oil change at 500 or 1000 kms (?) from memory… then repeat a few times… why diesel oil, because it has more cleaning agents/additives within… but it’s costly in cheap filters and oil…

+ 1 for a video as a first step…. and a diagnostic scan to show current and saved DTC’s can’t hurt…

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

Is it a SIDI ? If it is could also be the HPFP they are mechanical and run of the cam at the rear of the motor on the passenger side and it could be worn and making a noise.

 

[tha_sv6]

Hello fellow Ve owners!

To put it simply I have identified a knocking noise in my engine bay just before an oil and oil filter change. After servicing and driving she ran really smooth, the noise was gone, however after the 3rd drive the noise crept back and now I don't want to drive it without fixing this noise because its a pretty noticeable knocking noise.

the noise began at around 2500rpm and stayed noticeable on acceleration. ( faster I went the faster the knock)

i've taken it to a trusted mechanic of mine and i asked him to take a look at it as soon as i heard the knock. Picking up the car and asking him what he found he told me that i needed a new timing chain and my engine mounts can be replaced. So I asked him what the noise was and he told me it was the engine mounts... taking his word for it i continued driving my car.

5-7 drives later i park my car and the knock can now be heard from idle and i was alarmed.
popping the bonnet and listening to the noise i was sure that it was not my timing chain or engine mounts.

timing chains are at the front of the engine and make more of a ticking noise, and engine mounts are located beneath the engine and id hear it bellow.. but i didn't hear any noise from bellow or from the front.

Looking at the car, the noise is coming from the top back right piston area. And because i'm not a serious mechanic i can only assume what it could be:

Components around the top of the piston is what it most likely is... either rockers, lifters or just something else in that area..

Seeking some knowledge and understanding of owners who might know or have been in similar shoes as this is the only noise from making my car mechanically sound..

2009 series 1 Ve Ute ~ 140 000ks
new clutch
new ECM
new Oil pressure sensor
serviced occasionally
overheated before (no coolant) - fixed
Driven occasionally, not a daily driver

Thanks Heaps

Here is a link to the Youtube video Of the Noise, This clip was when it sounded the Worse

I service the car every 10,000kms but maintain all fluids when possible

 

[tha_sv6]

Which was exactly why I initially thought a blocked oil screen under the oil sender but that’s only V8 thing and only for AFM DOD (VLOM filter) equiped engines, so not relevant to V6’s.

I think a video with audio from a mechanics stethoscope would be the best at trying to track down what’s the cause of the noise… but not so easy to make…

Otherwise whatever lives in the read left bank of the V6 may be the cause. The fact that the noise follows the speed of the engine leads me to think sticky lifters because purge valve noise shouldn’t be linked to engine speed (one would think)...

I worry about using engine flush in vehicles that may have had poor oil and oil filter change routines because lots of crud may have built up internally and oil flush can loosen it so it moves around and blocks more things?

But there are many threads on the subject of oil flush and some like to take the slower diesel oil route with a few speedy oil filter change every few 100 kms(?) and an oil change at 500 or 1000 kms (?) from memory… then repeat a few times… why diesel oil, because it has more cleaning agents/additives within… but it’s costly in cheap filters and oil…

+ 1 for a video as a first step…. and a diagnostic scan to show current and saved DTC’s can’t hurt…

My best bet is a bad lifter too, but i would like to get as many thoughts before i take it back to my mechanic to fix it.

 

[tha_sv6]

Is there any lights on the dash?
When you say serviced occasionally, how many km between services?
Could you please make a YouTube video with the knocking noise as it may give us a better idea on what's going on with your car...

I just made a video!

i service the car every 10,000 and maintain fluids whenever i can. just replaced power steering fluid and realised i need another power steering pump as well...

 

[tha_sv6]

Cam covers should come off is the first thing I would do to take a look.
If looks normal then I guess engine out and strip.
That will tell you what’s wrong and what needs replacing I guess.

Ive got all the tools and i don't mind working on my cars, but what would i be looking for? this is something i'm not so experienced in the mechanical elements of an engine. (in terms of technical mechanics)

 

[Skylarking]

Ive got all the tools and i don't mind working on my cars, but what would i be looking for? this is something i'm not so experienced in the mechanical elements of an engine. (in terms of technical mechanics)

You can deduce a fair amount before needing to dismantle anything.

As an example, you can use a 1/2 m section of garden hose (as a pseudo mechanics stethoscope) and place one end at your ear and the other end at various places on an engine to listen for noises. Once you localise where a noise is coming from you can try and work out its frequency and thus RPM. Understanding the mechanical side helps to you work out the RPM from the frequency and given that the cams turn at 1/2 the rate of the crank, you can work out if it’s an issue within the block or the head…

The following looks at table saws but similar cheap tools could be made/used to help diagnose, though often a good ear and a mechanics stethoscope is enough.

from https://hackaday.com/2018/02/08/the-tachometer-inside-your-smartphone/

 

[Commo64]

I just made a video!

i service the car every 10,000 and maintain fluids whenever i can. just replaced power steering fluid and realised i need another power steering pump as well...

Maybe the previous owners didn't?

 

[Commo64]

Ive got all the tools and i don't mind working on my cars, but what would i be looking for? this is something i'm not so experienced in the mechanical elements of an engine. (in terms of technical mechanics)

Please don't strip your engine without knowing what's wrong with it first...

 

[tha_sv6]

You can deduce a fair amount before needing to dismantle anything.

As an example, you can use a 1/2 m section of garden hose (as a pseudo mechanics stethoscope) and place one end at your ear and the other end at various places on an engine to listen for noises. Once you localise where a noise is coming from you can try and work out its frequency and thus RPM. Understanding the mechanical side helps to you work out the RPM from the frequency and given that the cams turn at 1/2 the rate of the crank, you can work out if it’s an issue within the block or the head…

The following looks at table saws but similar cheap tools could be made/used to help diagnose, though often a good ear and a mechanics stethoscope is enough.

from https://hackaday.com/2018/02/08/the-tachometer-inside-your-smartphone/

I definitely hear it in the top of the engine and i think the head and not the block.

Off peoples points of views its looking like bad lifter or shitty push rod, just want to get some more points of views before I start dismantling my engine.