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the comforts replaced the greens (and across others), and 10kg front back was what i was advised, given also i have a sedan not wagon.Surely you have those spring rates wrong. Think it's 9/9 for the comforts. If not, definately can't wait for the review!
A 10kg spring is about 550lb and King front on the top are 220lb rear 500lb. That's massively stiff in the front, (track stuff) and the car will understeer like a pig with that front to rear spring rate bias. Unless the 10kg spring means something else, King's on the soft end are 120lb front and 300lb rear. King's are stiffer than stock springs so how's a linear spring more than double the rate (stiffness) ride like a stock car, they're dreaming!Josh at MCA said the Pro Comfort kit is more suited to daily driving, with 10kg Front, 10kg rear springs.
A 10kg spring is about 550lb and King front on the top are 220lb rear 500lb. That's massively stiff in the front, (track stuff) and the car will understeer like a pig with that front to rear spring rate bias. Unless the 10kg spring means something else, King's on the soft end are 120lb front and 300lb rear. King's are stiffer than stock springs so how's a linear spring more than double the rate (stiffness) ride like a stock car, they're dreaming!
Like tyre pressures expressed in psi, spring rates are most commonly expressed in lb/in even Eibach coil over springs. It's pretty "oddball" for an aftermarket suspension specialist expressing spring rates in kg's although it's common for car manufacturers to do so.I always thought spring rates were measured in kg/cm or lb/in
In a VS Commodore live axle race car with a cast iron (heavy) V8, we'd run 750lb front springs and 350lb rear on coil overs. In a VZ with IRS and alloy V8, we'd run 600lb front and in the stock location 1100lb rear springs. On coil over rear IRS springs, we'd run around 550lb springs. The race car will also run 5 degrees of negative camber at the front and 4mm toe out and on the street, drives like a bone shaking and tram lining animal. A Commodore set up for optimum race track lap times on the street, is virtually undrivable and feels like serious bucket of sh*t!I was certainly skeptical with having the same rate front and rear, but when I had a look at older Commies and other makes, the spring rates are all over the place, so it gave me confidence that thought has gone into it. Plus I was triple assured by the man himself, that they're the optimum starting point.
It does upsets my OCD when rubbish measurements are provided.It's pretty "oddball" for an aftermarket suspension specialist expressing spring rates in kg's although it's common for car manufacturers to do so
20's look good and the steering response is slightly better, but I think a good 245/40 18 on stock SS/SV6 wheels feels the best with a bit of sidewall to soak up the bumps and road irregularities. 20's are pretty harsh and aren't the most comfortable and they're the slowest on a race track. When a low sidewall tyre loses traction on a race track, the car slides suddenly like driving in the wet. All taller sidewall tyre is more like driving in dirt when they break traction with more time to catch it and control the slide. A car that slides suddenly and unpredictably, doesn't give the driver much confidence to push it hard and drive on the edge of traction, hence slower lap times in most cases.our local roads aren't best suites to skinny sidewalled 20" tyres