L67 calais pulley? Belt?

[krusing]

I had a similar issue, a bit noisy under the bonnet, ended up purchasing a mechanics stethoscope, and found 2 bad pulleys,
not bad considering they were the original pulleys from when we purchased it in 2005.
So I decided to purchased a Full Pulley Kit, and Supercharger Service Kit from Mace Engineering, [do it once do it properly]
Also purchased 2 new Belts to complement the new pulleys.
Sounds nice and quiet in the car now.
The pulleys are easy to change, but ALWAYS tension the pulley bolts up as per spec !, you would hate to lose a belt on a freeway or at BFN.
Recently replaced the Alternator Bearings and Regulator, to be on the safe side, runs beautifully, apart from the Air Conditioning Compressor problem.

On a side note
The Supercharger service kit took a few hours, very easy to do, with the right equipment of course.
[as I took my time, and didn't want to stuff it up].
With a word of advice, don't event think about attempting servicing the Supercharger without the right tools, and a Bearing Press.

 

[Immortality]

As already mentioned, take the main belt off and test. Then check each pulley by hand (give it a spin and the wobble test). Having a 2nd look at the video I recon a few of those pulleys have already been replaced with the new aftermarket steel type. Also check the PS pump, water pump and alternator etc.

Another problem that is often overlooked are the tensioners. These needs to move freely or the belt will slip. With the belts off use a spanner and make sure they move freely. If not, use some WD40 and spray liberally into the housing as you move it backward and forwards through it's full range of motion. If it is working properly it should have a fair bit of tension on it. I'm told that as these wear the tensioner mechanism will cock on a small angle which will put the tensioner pulley out of alignment and make the belt run off to one side and cause excess wear on one edge of the belt.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Just in case its not the pulley wheels, it seemed to get louder towards the alternator maybe bushers or bearings in it , also called be water pump to, also A/C compressor bearing. But try the spray lube on the pulley wheels first.

 

[Immortality]

Easiest way to diagnose the AC pulley bearing is to simply turn on the AC which engages the pump at which point the bearing stops turning and the noise would go away.

 

[Emilyrose]

Easiest way to diagnose the AC pulley bearing is to simply turn on the AC which engages the pump at which point the bearing stops turning and the noise would go away.

The noise didn't go away
Took all belts off and ran it for about 20 seconds
No noise poof it was gone
Pulled out idler pulley let's just say it's rooted

 

[Immortality]

Yep, it's a fairly typical problem. Is a steel pulley or plastic? If it's steel you can just replace the bearing (6203 2RS I believe but please double check), if it's plastic then get yourself a Nuline replacement pulley that is steel so should it ever fail again you can simply do the bearing.

 

[krusing]

Yep, it's a fairly typical problem. Is a steel pulley or plastic? If it's steel you can just replace the bearing (6203 2RS I believe but please double check), if it's plastic then get yourself a Nuline replacement pulley that is steel so should it ever fail again you can simply do the bearing.

You are correct,
the 6203 2RS Bearing is a common Pulley Bearing on VX & VY's,
as I did a pulley change-over for someone recently,
and they were the bearings in the steel replacement pulleys.

 

[Emilyrose]

Yep, it's a fairly typical problem. Is a steel pulley or plastic? If it's steel you can just replace the bearing (6203 2RS I believe but please double check), if it's plastic then get yourself a Nuline replacement pulley that is steel so should it ever fail again you can simply do the bearing.

Okay so I've done the idler pulley, power steering pump, water pump, new belt on supercharger side and the noise is still there :/ unsure of where to go from here

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Sounds like your Alternator.

 

[krusing]

Which pulley is the one that's faulty ?
If its one of the ribbed one's [plastic one], as they have 2 on there,
replace it with a nuline steel one,
so most of the bearings are replaceable, being most bearing are $5 > $7 going by memory.
Most if the replacement bearings are part # 6203 2RS, [as mentioned earlier]
apart from the SC Idler Pulley, I have this as part # 6303RS [as its a slightly bigger pulley in diameter].
Not sure why, but it was the pulley supplied.

The easiest way to see which one is faulty,
Get hold of a LONG screw driver [flat blade type preferred], place the shaft of the screw driver on the front of the pulley retaining bolt,
On the handle end, place it to your ear and listen to the noise of the bearing,
In doing it this way, and if you have a LONG HAIR, make sure you tie it back for your own personnel safety.
To check if the noise is coming from the alternator,
Place the screw driver on the front of the housing just behind the pulley, and listen to the front bearing,
As for the back of the alternator, just place the screw driver on the back of the housing where the bearing sits.
The Bearings can be replaced for about $20, but you would be best to use a bearing press, or similar,
Don't use a butchers knock stick [ake: Hammer] to knock the bearings off.

Keeping in mind, All the Bearings are NOT serviceable,
they need to be replaced.
So don't try and re-lubricate them, because they will fail at the most inconvenient time.

The other way to check where the noise is being produced by, is to purchase a mechanics stethoscope from Supercheap Auto or eBay,
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/283617712...MI5ofKjtnx5AIVgx0rCh1CzgDiEAQYAyABEgKYv_D_BwE

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-stethoscope---mechanics/12550.html

As thats how I determined to which noisy pulley that I had on my Super6, where I had a couple that were noisy, so I changed them all for the case of the exercise.
And its running nice and quiet now.