L77 dod filter

[BEEVEE]

Galleries to the Lifters I guess,
I would say being its installed for the AFM, but what's to say they didn't installed them in ALL the Later V8's,
I'm only guessing, it could be there, or one similar, worth a look I recon.

many thanks again
will let you know how it goes
cheers

 

[Clay1391]

Hi All, I changed the DOD Filter today [Saturday] and noticed that the lifters were a bit quieter, especially at idle.
Been for a few road tests and it is running quieter.

Very simple to do,
Items required -
Patience [Don't Rush it]
27mm 6point 1/2 drive Deep Socket [$18 at Bunning's]
1/2 drive universal
1/2 drive ratchet
1/2 drive Tension wrench recommended [to re-fit the pressure switch at 35nm]
Thread sealant [I used a little bit of Gasket Cement on the thread]
7mm long Allan Key as per image below [to remove the old OD Filter - have explain below]
Last but not least, replacement filter [that's if you wish to replace it]

1. Inspect the area with a mirror, or similar [where I used my phone camera] so you know were you are working, most of it will need to be done by feel, as it is right down at the back of the motor below view.
2. Remove the wiring loom by sliding the locking tab up, and pressing on the tab, and carefully remove the plug.
3. Assemble the Ratchet, Universal and Deep Socket, and slide it down the back of the valley and remove the pressure switch, keeping in mind its a right hand tread.
4. Use the 7mm Long Allen Key, and place into the top of old DOD Filter and press it in a little way say 5mm [don't press it in to far]
5. While the Allen Key is in the old DOD filter, twist the DOD filter either way a little bit to loosen it,
6. Then lift the old filter out of the housing, and it should come out attached to the Allen Key as per image below [as the Allen Key is the perfect size for a neat fit in the centre of the DOD Filter].
7. Clean the work area as per image below [DOD filter housing area, careful not to let any dirt drop in the hole]
8. If your re-using the old filter, clean it with de-greaser, wash it clean with water, and dry it off with compressed air.
9. Re-fit the DOD Filter, best to use 3 fingers, one to locate the housing, the other two to hold the filter tight, [because you wont want to drop it behind the motor]
10. Or, place the DOD filter on the Allen Key a little bit, locate the hole, and use the Allen Key to place it in the hole, then with one finger on the top of the DOD Filter, slide the Allen Key out.
11. Grab the Allen Key and use that to make sure its all the way in by pressing down lightly on the top ridge of the filter.
12. Clean the thread up on the pressure switch
13. Apply thread sealer,
14. And carefully manipulate the pressure switch back into the housing by hand [careful NOT to cross thread it] you will feel it screw into the tread, and keep screwing it in by hand.
15. Then nip it up with the ratchet, or ratchet tension wrench. [to 35nm]
16. Re-connect the plug, and slide the locking tab back into position.

There was one thing I did notice, it appeared that the stainless steel gauze/filter material was much finer on the old filter, than the replacement filter,
So the replacement filter will allow more oil pass through,
I am guessing it should quieten it down a bit with more oil available to the lifters.
I cleaned the old filter in degreaser, and have kept the old one, as its in still in good condition, and wasn't damaged when removed.
Total time taken approx. 1/2 hour. [for installing a new one]

Awesome post! Didn't even know there was such a thing!
Dumb dumb here, where abouts is the filter located? Also any links to where you purchased it off eBay?

 

[krusing]

Awesome post! Didn't even know there was such a thing!
Dumb dumb here, where abouts is the filter located? Also any links to where you purchased it off eBay?

Link to the eBay seller [OEM Part]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/General...790462?hash=item363a815cfe:g:uuUAAOSwxW9eUDOG

Its located "under" the OP Switch, which at the back of the engine,
Hard to see, but if you have a small mechanics mirror, you can angle it at the back, not quite centre of the engine, a tad over on the passengers side.

 

[Justin Thomas]

Great review for how to... if in future others read this concerned that they may have overlooked a filter item, I checked mine tonight with 80,000km on the car.

Filter was spotless, it also looks like a guse to stop anything effecting the switch reading. I'd not lose sleep or break off your switch in an attempt to service an item that you may likely find clean however I think the above instruction are too notch matey!

 

[BEEVEE]

This is interesting. I have been thinking the same thing. Do you clean it or leave it until there is a problem and then clean it. My view is that when a problem starts happening, it's too late to clean as the damage is done. Would be interesting to see what others think.

As a Qualified VACC Mechanic with over 45 years as self employed, I can guarantee the way to save money and avoid failures, is to ALWAYS replace Oil and FILTERS not 1 km later than Makers recommendation at the very least, and no later than once a year for low use/collectables doing less than 5,000kms yearly. It's a no-brainer. I have always ignored Maker's recommendation on my own cars, and just change Oil and Filters every 5,000kms, or once a year on my Car's Engines. Auto Trans Oil and Filter every 20,000kms or on low mileage club-cars: 3 years.
Trans and Diff Oil every 40,000kms or 5 years on low milers. ALL vehicles that use common Brake Fluid from 1930 to 2020 MUST get new Brake Fluid without fail every 2 years for Brakes to remain efficient. This Fluid sucks in water 24/7 and this water goes straight to the wheel cylinders and calipers, and we all know what happens when this water boils from red hot brakes !
It's not over-kill, or over-servicing. All OIL begins to disintegrate from the day you replace it.
Re Engine Oil contamination .............
1/ a tiny amount of raw fuel passes the rings & Valve Stems on EVERY stroke
2/ Same with ash on EVERY stroke
3/ Condensation/Sludge forms every time you switch off and park till next morning re-start
4/ Atmospheric "Fall-out" attacks ALL FLUIDS 24/7/365 in all units inc Fuel Tank, Eng & Trans & Diff & Power Steer and BRAKE & CL. Fluids
5/ Metal shavings, gasket/seal material, etc are naturally being eroded to fall into the oil every km your car travels

For any post-2000 vehicle, Engine Oil MUST be changed every 5,000kms with the EXACT OIL the maker specifies. Anything less and you can expect failure/problems and/or short engine life, which are MUCH dearer than what appears as excessive oil & filter changes.

So yes, "Prevention is MILES Better Than Cure". Once old, over-due oil causes problems, IT IS TOO LATE to then change the oil !

 

[Justin Thomas]

Totally agree with you 100% regards servicing, I'm also a technician and was a trade tutor. All my cars get services pre due schedule. Oil and filters are cheap. I had agreement from all trade tutors in my last job that 15,000km servicing and 20,000 for many diesels is bad practice, in our opinions for engine life. I cleaned my "filter out" I think the reason I would not stress over this "filter" is because it's a steel mesh gauze, it's not going to filter water or anything like your engine oil filter will. It appears to me to be a strainer pre pressure switch to stop a potential build up of sludge effecting the switch operation. My gauze was as clean as a gauze dipped in new engine oil. Imo, this task (especially for a novice diy handyman now worried he/she needs to clean their dod mesh filter asap) would be like removing the sump and cleaning the oil pump pick up gauze... the oil filter and oil replacement is the service item to worry about here. In my opinion. But, I'd happily be proved wrong if a holden technician said they replace these "filters" (with no pleated paper element) every service... I'd be surprised.

 

[Super Coach]

first I am hearing about this. Is it only on the VF Series 1 6.0L V8 with AFM? or will this also be on a VF Series II 6.2L

 

[lmoengnr]

first I am hearing about this. Is it only on the VF Series 1 6.0L V8 with AFM? or will this also be on a VF Series II 6.2L

Only on AFM/DOD engines with their special valley plate.

 

[shane_3800]

Has any one replaced the little filter under the oil pressure switch ? If so why and was it dirty ? Did it make any difference ?

No. Been there done that it dosent even feed the lifters.

 

[Skylarking]

No. Been there done that it dosent even feed the lifters.

Just a small corretion.

Pressurised oil is sent from the oil pump through the external engine oil filter up to the valve lifter oil manifold (VLOM). The VLOM incoming oil is indeed filtered by the DOD oil screen filter before reaching those DOD solenoids. During light trottle higway cruising, the system may command those DOD solenoids to open, thus oil flows to the collapsable lifters for cylinder 1, 4, 6 & 7. That flowing presurised oil proceeds to collaps the DOD lifters so the valves stay shut.... and the cylinder effectively behaves like a spring...

You may not notice any difference when changing the DOD filter but if GM/Holden didn't think extra filtration was needed, they'd not have installed the little thing (being that they are cheap arse st heart).

What the service interval is to check/clean/replace these little filters is anyones guyss as i haven't seen it documented. But over time, any crap particles in the oil that get past the main filter could block the DOD filter and thus cause issues with DOD system. If the crap gets past the DOD filter, it could possibly cause solenoids and/or lifters to clogg up. When/If that occurs, i'd think you'd notice some engine roughness as some lifters collapse while others may not...