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l98 lifter noise

undy22

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Hi all,
My L98 08 Calais has a suspected problem with lifters (ticking noise).
idles fine,drives fine,no error codes or lights. other than the ticking noise.
not any of the belts 100% internal

It is currently at a work shop being investigated to be confirm should know Tuesday or so .
also ive read that it can mess up the cam as well.

Just hoping lifters can be replaced and good to go but if cam is messed ,well time to do a cam and so fourth =big hole in wallet

Have any of you had these problems? or experience with them ? and how did it turn out?

Thanks
 

undy22

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so it seems the lifter has chewed out the camshaft lobe. :(and also possibly the cam may of left bit's in the engine
same as LS Engine Trouble Information
waiting on a finding from that.
Should find out tomorrow
has any one had this issue before?

at this stage I believe my options are
to
1.get a new engine
2.try to check sump /other areas for metals bits and install new cam/lifters and hope the old cam/lifter has not stuffed the engine.
 

christov

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so it seems the lifter has chewed out the camshaft lobe. :(and also possibly the cam may of left bit's in the engine
same as LS Engine Trouble Information
waiting on a finding from that.
Should find out tomorrow
has any one had this issue before?

at this stage I believe my options are
to
1.get a new engine
2.try to check sump /other areas for metals bits and install new cam/lifters and hope the old cam/lifter has not stuffed the engine.

That's unfortunate. From memory when I discussed lifter failure with my mechanic he said it was 'terminal' for our engines.

I know you can replace the bits that are obviously broken but it may be worth looking into a second hand L98 which you could pickup for about $1500-$4000 depending on K's and inclusions (i.e. accessories). Either that or a new donk as a crate which you can pick up for $6000ish.

I would recommend that you get a low K second hand motor from a reputable dealer if you don't intend to keep it for a long time. If you do intend to keep it indefinately, I would be buying a crate motor.
 

WazzaVN

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Depends how far youve driven. By the time you pull the effected bits out and replace youll have racked up the cost of a low kms second hand engine.

Yeah and you could replace then with better bits while its all apart and they're doing the laybor anyway. as long as there is only damage to the valvetrain. Valvetrain parts for Ls engines are really cheap so instead of paying for a new stock engine you could just consider it an upgrade that you were kinda forced into.

Hoping it hasn't done any more damage for you.
 

undy22

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Yeah and you could replace then with better bits while its all apart and they're doing the laybor anyway. as long as there is only damage to the valvetrain. Valvetrain parts for Ls engines are really cheap so instead of paying for a new stock engine you could just consider it an upgrade that you were kinda forced into.

Hoping it hasn't done any more damage for you.


yeah that's the way I am looking at. I think we will go down the road of a new cam + parts .(not stock cam) (and some better lifters than the standard crap) just waiting on some information tomorrow.
Engine only has 60000kms and not driven for long so one can only hope.
 

Grennan

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Well theres the huge issue.

You pull the the old **** out to inspect only to find the lobe has gone through the engine and ####ed pistons etc.

A munched lobe isnt always cactus engine, i mean anything can be fixed. So heres hoping. Hopefully you win the "Where did the metal go lottery"
 

QAR

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OP price to remove and refit is $1500. Teardown crack test (includes clean) fit cam is ten hours ($1000) plus cam (LS3 $100 or custom $500). Cheapest limp in drive out is $3100 but you have a window of opportunity to really improve things while it's apart, every dollar spent is without R&R overhead... hard not to do it properly up to a budget of say $4500.
I bet thats cheaper than fitting another used engine, go for it. PM me for referrals.
 

undy22

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so back from mechanics ,so cause cam shaft has been buggered. + other internals they also said their was a noise present from lower half of engine (knocking slightly) ,that there would be no point adding new cam and lifters with the noise from bottom end ,and I would be better off with a new engine . so :( only 60000kms ,now to look for a new engine l98 in bloody Tasmania this will be fun
 

K-Man

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I doubt there's that many good L98's laying around, if you were going to do a Crate engine I'd go an LS3. Even then thats nearly $9k.

VE LS3 6.2 LT CRATE ENGINE

If not a new donk then you do have 2 other options;

1) Keep the Block.
-ERL Resleeve to 427"
- Forged internals.
- Win
ERL Performance Engines « Horsepower Factory


2) Keep the Block
- Machine
- Stroke to 402

Since you have to take the engine out anyway, if you keep it, strip it then re-build with 402 or greater it will last a lifetime and have a ton of power and torque. When my donk dies I'll be doing the ERL resleeve to 427" then rebuild form there over a period of time.

Good Luck
K-Man
 
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