LS3 engine oil recommendations

[vombil]

perfpr

Don't know mate. I thought so too when told too. So far so good. I do like giving it a rev. Lots of Hi performance cars use that oil.

performance motors have larger clearances so that can be thrashed without seizing. it's natural to use a thicker oil - i went through the issue with a 383 chev - mech tried a hpr 30 and ended up having to fall on his sword and put HPR40 in it. What chattering its head off once up to temp with the hpr30

 

[dassaur]

etc?

perfpr

performance motors have larger clearances so that can be thrashed without seizing. it's natural to use a thicker oil - i went through the issue with a 383 chev - mech tried a hpr 30 and ended up having to fall on his sword and put HPR40 in it. What chattering its head off once up to temp with the hpr30

perfpr

performance motors have larger clearances so that can be thrashed without seizing. it's natural to use a thicker oil - i went through the issue with a 383 chev - mech tried a hpr 30 and ended up having to fall on his sword and put HPR40 in it. What chattering its head off once up to temp with the hpr30

I don't think the stock ls runs loose clearences...

 

[Immortality]

These are the clearances I have for the LS1 motors.

 

[Ginger Beer]

Apples and Oranges, mine is a LS1 with 140k km

My engine guy recommend going to 5w40 after fitting a Melling high volume oil pump, currently running HPR5

The Melling high volume oil pump was fitted because the OEM pump was 22 years old and it seemed like good preventative maintenance and an upgrade to do because there was a oil leak from the timing chain cover that needed fixing, it was a "ehile were in there" thing

My engine is as quite as it has ever been, even quiter than the Castrol Edge 10w60 I tried for a few changes pre high volume oil pump, hell, HPR10 was better at start up than the 10w60

Q. What does that have to do with yours?

A. Look at your oil pressure, and do a oil analysis, the only way to truly see if your oil is actually working, or what metals are wearing

Going to thick, or to thin, can cause issues

This is the beauty of multi grade oils, going on the thin side of W of what the manufacturer recommends will be better at start up, then, only going high enough to give the required oil pressure, which IIRC, was around 15-20 psi at "hot" idle, then 10 psi for every 1000 rpm.....IIRC.....is best for when at operating temp of around 95°c......IIRC

Disclaimer: this works for a performance street car, doing the occasional hit at the drags, not a race car, if you have a race car you would be doing oil analysis anyway and basing you oil choice of the analysis and the recommendations given by your engine builder

 

[Pollushon]

LS stock clearances are pot luck, especially piston to bore. After 150k your bearings are going to have extra clearance, this applies to most engines, some more than others. It's best to consider multiple factors like recommended viscosity, age, climate and driving style

Is true most performance builds are setup for thicker oils because thicker oils are better at the long full send life. Mines built for 50 daily and 60 track day

 

[vombil]

LS stock clearances are pot luck, especially piston to bore. After 150k your bearings are going to have extra clearance, this applies to most engines, some more than others. It's best to consider multiple factors like recommended viscosity, age, climate and driving style

Is true most performance builds are setup for thicker oils because thicker oils are better at the long full send life. Mines built for 50 daily and 60 track day

I'd have to agree with you re pot luck. I've owned probably 20 LS1's or more and bar the VZ series I think I've had one quiet motor and it was a 245,000kms VY SS ute that had definitely been driven hard.... but it had also had lots of oil changes with quality synthetic oils for the first 180,000

 

[Immortality]

Just look at the spread on the factory specs, that's a huge variation, if their piston to bore clearances is anything to go by it's definitely a hit and miss approach.

 

[Pollushon]

I'd have to agree with you re pot luck. I've owned probably 20 LS1's or more and bar the VZ series I think I've had one quiet motor and it was a 245,000kms VY SS ute that had definitely been driven hard.... but it had also had lots of oil changes with quality synthetic oils for the first 180,000

A quiet LS is a diamond in the rough. Never had a GM 8 that wasn't a rattler, much like Eco's. This new forged stroker build is noisy AF, especially cold. Many years at the drags and nats taught me that's just how it is, I'd probably be suss of a quiet one

 

[vombil]

A quiet LS is a diamond in the rough. Never had a GM 8 that wasn't a rattler, much like Eco's. This new forged stroker build is noisy AF, especially cold. Many years at the drags and nats taught me that's just how it is, I'd probably be suss of a quiet one

speaking of... generally Eco's ive found to be very quiet but now I'm seeing them with noisey balance shafts. My guess is that the pumps are tired or blocked now.

 

[lmfvf2ssredlineute]

any good brand name oil is ok to use for a street driven ls3 engine, my wifes blown ls3 is happy on 5-30 nulon, in fact some v8 super car teams use a 5-30 oil, holden have tested ls3 engines under extreme temps and weather conditions to make sure its ok for use anywhere in oz
do not think too much about which oil grade or brand, they are all the same and a 5-30 nulon full synthetic is what i have used
in two ls3s since new, its fine for street use and the odd track day
oil company's use gimmicks too out do each other and suck customers into paying **** loads more thinking my car will run last longer because its the best most expensive oil
its bullshit long as it meets the api sg ratings it all the same