more kw

[DirkDiggler76]

I have a 2010 270kw ss-v.

Was floating the idea of more kw. after 6 years or so I am used to the kw.

I mainly drive my car rev range 2300 to 4500, ( manual.) fuel economy not really care about, as only drive 20km a day, for myself. My Wifes care is the bread winner.

My style of driving, is:

I don't to burn outs....
But say at the lights, lead car, 2k rpm cluch.. then as soon as wheels move I floor it to around 4 or 4.5k rpm. I drive my car hard. or if riding in traffic, I hold my gear to around 2.5k rpm or higher. 90 percent of my shifts are around 3 to 4k rpm.

I don't have a price range as I don't really know what out there. Car is stock , but lowered ( not by me). bought car second hand with 9000km on clock

 

[monstar]

More kilowatts mid range means more torque earlier, Early Intake Valve Close like 64° ABDC 219-226 duration on a lower LSA like 113-115. Also good scavenging from down low means tuned tri-y headers and collector, x-pipe at the second harmonic. e85 is meant for your driving.

 

[vr304]

The basics for these usually are Otr air intake,aftermarket extractors with hi flow cats and a 2.5 inch or 3 inch exhaust system with a dyno tune... livens them up really well

 

[Kirbs454]

+1 for the OTR, full exhaust and tune. Brings the engine alive.

 

[BLACK-VE]

I have a 2010 270kw ss-v.

Was floating the idea of more kw. after 6 years or so I am used to the kw.

I mainly drive my car rev range 2300 to 4500, ( manual.) fuel economy not really care about, as only drive 20km a day, for myself. My Wifes care is the bread winner.

My style of driving, is:

I don't to burn outs....
But say at the lights, lead car, 2k rpm cluch.. then as soon as wheels move I floor it to around 4 or 4.5k rpm. I drive my car hard. or if riding in traffic, I hold my gear to around 2.5k rpm or higher. 90 percent of my shifts are around 3 to 4k rpm.

I don't have a price range as I don't really know what out there. Car is stock , but lowered ( not by me). bought car second hand with 9000km on clock

change the diff ratio that's makes the car lively 3.7's whiche were HSV manual ratio or VF2 manuals standard, get a otr and tune with exhaust and your done

 

[monstar]

Likely your LSD is crapped out anyway so gears are good and cheap to increase torque. Probably the best bang for buck. Also I recommend swapping a TruTrac to make the most out of that and to transfer more traction.
Hitting 2000 rpm with 100% load and maintaining that through Maximum Brake Torque say 4400 rpm is not so much about WOT / flow so OTR and any aftermarket exhaust is not the key. However you will trap more charge and deliver more cylinder pressure (BMEP) with EIVC Cam, correct spark for octane, e85 delivering up to 20% more torque at 2500 rpm.
Most aftermarket exhausts are not torque monsters, quite the opposite. You can improve mid range scavenging with headers and exhaust properly tuned to your cammed engine peak rpm.

 

[harrop.senator]

Theirs a youtube dyno videos sore next to no low down difference between tri ys and 4 into 1. They recommended 4 into 1 for all purposes also showed twin 3s were always better then twin 2.5s.

But honestly 6 speeds and dont care about economy. 3.9 or 4.11s sound like your dream.

 

[monstar]

Theirs a youtube dyno videos sore next to no low down difference between tri ys and 4 into 1. They recommended 4 into 1 for all purposes also showed twin 3s were always better then twin 2.5s.

But honestly 6 speeds and dont care about economy. 3.9 or 4.11s sound like your dream.

I think you can find a youtube video for most eventualities but I use proven race formula from Vizard, Larry Meaux, reporting from Craig Hasted, Cam advice from Patrick Guerra and Geoff Skinner, etc.
At least that way it’s a higher level of professional research, and the results show low to mid range scavenging requires a totally different spec for building torque than a set of straight headers gathered to perform at a high rpm hp peak.
Gearing (making the best with what you’ve got) is good value but you can only squeeze a lemon so far. To improve OP’s brake torque 2000-4400 rpm, which is 100% load, the aim is to phase combustion (valve and spark) events and power enrichment in that powerband.
So cam, fuel type, resonance tuning then you won’t want extra low gears to boogie - that tactic lessens the useful application of the 2000-4400 powerband in favour of upper rpm (where there’s comparatively little torque).
Here’s the sort of effortless full load delivery ~2k rpm to over 4K with boosted torque and 2.92 gears:

Compare (time, gear changes and) flexibility 20kph - 100kph using engine torque vs typical low geared setups designed for high rpm hp.

 

[harrop.senator]

I've got some vizard books myself and it seems theory says a lot more then reality. Was same car same conditions same dyno back to back and was looked at from all rpms not just peak, graphs dont lie.

 

[monstar]

I've got some vizard books myself and it seems theory says a lot more then reality. Was same car same conditions same dyno back to back and was looked at from all rpms not just peak, graphs dont lie.

OK graphs don’t lie... perhaps the test was flawed, let’s entertain that.
BTW I’ve developed a NA 825 Nm variant of OP’s engine and drive it every day. It delivers same peak as LS9 dome but plateaus 1500 rpm longer.
You can understand how I am reticent to abandon years of incremental tuning advances in favour of (any?) one size off the shelf, single peak all-flow straight pipes. But OP it really doesn’t matter if the cat is black or white as long as it catches the mouse.