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Paintin in 2-pac

ILLUMINOUS

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illl probz be using a solid colour over the base followed by a clear coat
 

ari666

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i wouldnt. just do a solid colour, do heaps of thick layers and it'll shine up better than clear over base. itll mean you have more 'give' if you stuff up and get bits of crap in it and peel (expect quite a bit if its done in the shed) cos you will have more you can block back later on. if you get some peel in the base, then peel in the clear, the clear peel will block back but you will still be able to see the uneven base, whereas solid colour will just block back flat. am i making sense?

i could be wrong though.
 

ILLUMINOUS

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that helps a lot...but what do you mean by base, as like a colour or primer or something else....and what do you mean by block back .....and is there anyways to stop it from pealing?
 
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ari666

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by 'clear over base' i mean a thin colour, like a metallic with clear over the top of it, the colour being the 'base'. solid colour is just a flat colour with nothing else in it, so a white or red or blue or whatever.

good spray painters in the right conditions can get paint perfectly flat straight off the gun, but you and i are not good spray painters and we prolly dont have perfect conditions :p so we need to prepare for peel. blocking it back is basically getting a block, i've been using a thick rubber thing from the paint shop. was like...10 bucks or something, looks like a square thick soled thong.

so what you do is spray over some guide coat. cheap 'export matte black' is about 3 bucks a can. you dont need to spray it on thick, just little splatters all over the paint. then with a bucket of water, some 800 sandpaper and your block you rub really lightly and evenly till all the matte black paint is gone. te little splatters of matte will fill the holes where you can see peel and are the lowest point of the paint, so you wanna rub everything else flat to the same height.

when all the black is gone you go over it again with 2000 to start to shine it up, then cut it then polish.

its basically getting all the big scratches into smaller scratches, then getting all the smaller scratches into tiny scratches then getting tiny scratches into swirls then flat. make sense?
 

12345678910

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If you want good results with any 2pac job, you must let the primer dry for at least a couple of days to allow it to shrink, paint over it when its still flashing off and you will encounter sand scrath's all through your work a week or so later. This also goes for your base coat, for optimal results the base should be left over night to let it throughly flash before you apply you're clear coat, and never wax a freshly painted car that goes for any paint type before at least 90 or so days, as the paint is still flashing off and will trap the flashing solvents in to the surface and result in shrinking.
 

383 hatch

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This also goes for your base coat, for optimal results the base should be left over night to let it throughly flash before you apply you're clear coat

What? If you want the clear to peel off you might do that. You shouldn't leave basecoat for more than it's needs to flash off before clearing. More than a couple of hours and you risk de-lamination...
 

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with todays new paint technology most basecoats now have a seven day window before you have to put the clear on, i know that many of the major brands have this feature maybe some dont im not to sure. I would never leave it longer than overnight though. But the first time i heard this i was sceptical aswell but a couple of top quality spray painters that ive talked to have all recommended this method for the best results.
 
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