Q's 1987 VL Calais Walkinshaw project

[GRPAVL]

Spoke to the cert man today to get the low down on brakes and what he is happy with.

The Calais 270mm rotors will have to go. He said even with decent pads they just get too spongy when you use big rims.

He is happy for me to upgrade to the 290mm v8 rotor and a vn v8 caliper but would prefer the rotor be slotted to aid in braking (though not required). quick look into new rotors, pads and some second hand calipers it would set me back about $400 (or $500 for the slotted option).

When I asked him about the 323mm ve upgrade option he said great idea if you can afford it. so far I found a post on here for about 800 AUD but waiting to see if he ships to nz. probably a bit of overkill really but man those twin spots would look good under my rims.

Time to be nice to the wife i guess.

Also sorted out the speedo cable and accelerator cable today.

Took the speedo into Robinson Instruments Onehunga and they are going to run a new cable inside the factory pipe to give me the correct fitting for the t700 box and vl cluster. Should cost about $75-$100.

Took the rb30 accelerator cable into Autostop Takanini and for $30 im getting it shortened about 65mm. This should allow the cable to wind on the throttle plate and connect to the bracket without any other mods.

Q

 

[GRPAVL]

Friday the 13th might be unlucky for some but I dont beleive in black cats or ladders so why should today bother me, infact it hasn't.

Got back my modified speedo cable and mounted it up first pop. Now the T700 trans will work the vl speedo drive and at $45 to mod the old one it couldnt be cheaper if I did it myself. Also just picked up the shortened speedo cable which ill fit tomorrow (damn night shifts).

As for the brakes front have the best possible solution at the cheapest price ever ....
Didnt just want vn v8 single pots on the 290x22mm rotors and was contemplaing using the 28mm vt twinpots and making up some 3mm spacers to put behind the pads (increasing the pad thickness to match the rotor size) but wasnt overly convinced.
Had almost decided to import the vl/vt hub adapters ($350 landed) then upgrade to the 296mm VT rotors ($220) and VT twinpot calipers ($200) which wouldnt leave much change from $750 before pads and brake lines but then ....
Then I found someone in NZ that does a 290mmx28mm rotor for the vl commodore (ie disc with built in hub for the vl spindle). It comes complete with a set of twinpot VT calipers and the best part was that it only cost me $350 plus freight.

Boom ... how do you like them apples

Q

 

[GRPAVL]

Stoopid shop lied. They are only 22mm wide. grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. time to talk to the certer.

 

[GRPAVL]

DO NOT run the vt twinpot caliper on the 290x22 rotors (like 2 posts ago). There is a place in NZ that sells it as a viable upgrade but if you value your life i wouldnt.

I managed to scab up a caliper today and have a play on my spare stuts. It would work and all you would need to do is pack the back of the pads with some 3mm spacers to allow the caliper to work fully as intended. With full brake pads everything would be fine but if you got the outter pad down to the metal it could and most likely would just spin straight out through the 6mm gap and that would be a problem the first time you hit the stoppers.

Going to look at some 4 pot rx7 calipers on monday. They normally run a 296x22mm rotor but have a 140/150mm bolt spacing. It will require some sort of adapter plate but then you can still run the factory 290x22 rotors ($100) and some 4 pots ($250). watch this space.

Failing that I have rulled out the first option - $500-$550 for the 290x22 slotted with VN V8 singlepot calliper as I would rather spend $700-$750for the full VL-VT + adapter upgrade or $1000 for the full VL-VE upgrade will be on the cards. (already broken to the wife).

Q

 

[GRPAVL]

As I have mentioned recently I finally got a chance to reinstall the engine and box into the engine bay. It is all starting to take shape now.

Since then I have connected the engine wiring loom and have been working on the accelerator and speedo cables options at cost effective prices.

ACCELERATOR: Take the factory VL 3.0L cable to Autostop and have them shorten the inside core 60mm at the throttle end. While still a little long overal the cable will now fit between the pedal and the throttle body and throttle bracket perfectly. Cost $25.

SPEEDO: For the turbo 700 box remove the factory speedo sensor unit and stow in a safe place. Take your factory VL 3.0L speedo cable into Robinson Instruments and get them to recore it adding the adapter to suit a T700 box. Go home and install into speedometer unit and gear box. Cost $45

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BIG BRAKE UPGRADE: I may have also mentioned that I have started workign on the brake upgrade. I beleive that I have found the cheapest and best stopping option by far with minimal mods or larger purchases. I expect my upgrade to cost $450 once completed.

Parts required -
VL 290x22mm Rotors.
Wheel bearing kit.
Mazda RX7 FD3S Series 5/6 4 pot calipers.
Mazda pads.

This shows the Mazda caliper would fit perfectly to the Holdens strut if the bolt spacings were the same but they arent (Holden is 80mm caliper spacing while the Mazda is 150mm) as shown this pic.

To connect the two all you need to do is get some 200x50x8mm steel plate and drill 4 holes in it (2 for the strut, 2 for the caliper). Next you need to make some spacers to place under the Holdens mounting point which can be tacked in place. Then all you need are some high tensile bolts to go through an the caliper and the plate to hold it on.

More pics to come as I start assembling myself. This last pic is just to show the depth of the caliper and that you can still run your sweet rims

 

[GRPAVL]

Nothing to do tonight so I got back into it.

Brake booster and master re fitted.
Booster line to engine connected (once I found it).
Drive shaft reconnected.
First driveshaft hoop installed.
Alternator bracket and alternator refitted
Powersteering pump and bracket repainted. (fit tomorrow)

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[GRPAVL]

slow but steady today.

Fitted the alternator, bracket and belt.
Fitted the p/steer pump and bracket.
Had issues with teh power steering lines (which I forgot to install before the extractors. will attack that again tomorrow).
Picked up the new 290mm rotors
Picked up the Mazda RX7 FD3S Series 6 4 pot calipers
Ordered the new wheel bearings.

Finally watched summerslam 2013 and are now off to work.

Q
Picked up the

 

[Deuce]

Steady Progress advancing nicely

 

[GRPAVL]

I hate cars, over the last week I decided to check and rewire any of the crap connections from the previous owner. there were some soldered, some twisted, some crimped and some just taped side by side. how it ever went is beyond me.

Anyways. I finished the other day and have spent the whole day diagnosing and nothing. it still wont start. You can smell the gas out the exhaust, you can hear the coil ticking if you unplug it from the dizzy, it tried to fire a couple of times but no go.

I have checked the following:
Injectors, coil, dizzy module, have power when accessories are turned on
Injectors go back to ecu as required on 2 pins.
Pink anti theft bypass is in place and wired up as needed
Gray park/neutral start is wired and working
Leads/firing order are correct 1,2,7,8,4,5,6,3
If you unplug one lead and plug and short to earth you get spark on crank
Set front pully wheel to TDC and made sure pin 1 of dizzy was meeting rotor.

What way is the fuel lines meant to go in.... from fuel pump to passenger side of rail, through rail, to regulator, back to tank?

anyone offer any help.

Q

 

[GRPAVL]

spent the last 3 doing more diag stuff. Im stumped.

Checked fuel feed was to passenger side (uncracked the pipe fitting and watched it squirt out)
Double checked C16/B1 have 12v at all times
Double checked A6 (pink) has power when ign = on
Checked B5-B3 pulses 0-5v on crank (dizzy module)
Double checked earth wires D10/D6/D3/D1/A12 all have good earth
Checked Voltage between C16/B1 and the earths = 13V (double checking above)
Unplugged 2 injector leads and hooked up a test LED. on crank the LED come on meaning the injector should be pulsing.
Pulled a plug out and could feel it was wet.

Im leaning towards a dizzy issue but it used to work before i pulled it down. Might have to do a compression test on it tomorrow.

where should pin 1 on teh dizzy be sitting. Mine faces the away from the back of the engine at maybe 1pm I suppose.

Q