Replacing rear axle/Drive shafts on a VT IRS..............

[Darcon666]

Done it so many times @ the race track due to all the circuit racing I have done in the past.

It Should take you less than 1hr to do each side... Much easier if you have a HEX socket(Socket with allen key) & a nice long bar. Also, you might need to take out the lower bolt of the shock absorber to give you enough clearance/movment of the rear hub to twist out the shafts.

Good luck...

 

[50LTRv8]

I think I need to replace mine, If I get some from ebay do they need to be packed with grease or any lube applied before install?

 

[monkeys437]

CV's usually come with a pack of grease with the precise amount required to lube them properly.

 

[graham7773]

If the complete assembled shafts are being replaced, the CVs will already be lubed. I did mine not too long ago and the 1/2 inch drive 8mm Allen socket did the job very well teamed with a 1/2 inch drive breaking bar. Remember to clean the heads of the flange bolts out as the Allen socket does not go very far into them and broken knuckles and swearing will result from slippage...

 

[50LTRv8]

Thanks guys, I am going to take a good close look at them over the weekend and see what goes on, there is a clicking noise coming from the rear and I think it might be the shafts.

 

[mr little]

hi everyone, i have a v6 vt commodore i just recently smashed it up a gutter, how hard are wishbones and struts to change???
cheers

 

[ian]

hi all
just a quick question are the drive shafts all the same eg wagons same as sedans
are v8 's the same as v6 etc left and right the same ?
thanks
ian

 

[ConstantVelocity]

All the same... I replaced my sloppy ones on my VTII SS with some nice tight ones from a VZ V6... second hand ones from a newer v6 are a good bet.

 

[ian]

thanks for that

 

[PhilSeymour]

Well here in 2018 my 2003 Berlina started clunking and first I thought it was the centre tailshaft bearing. Certainly the rubber mount the bearing sits in was completely shot, so a new one from Ebay for $33 fixed it (Repco and Burston wanted $180).
Anyway, clunking soon returned with a vengence and with back jacked up and wheels free to turn the clunk was obviously in the RH CV shaft.
Went to Bunnings and bought a 1/2" socketed 8mm hex key ($12) then off to the wreckers for a shaft. Picked a later model Commodore and half an hour later using the hex key and 600mm breaker bar and minus $30 the shaft was mine. Yes.. it is a good idea to remove lower bolt on the shocker, and use the handbrake to lock the wheel. You will need to lock and unlock it three or four times to rotate the shaft to get at the bolts. In case the handbrake has been removed or doesn't work, take something to jam the wheel.
Thanks guys for the help.