Replacing sparkplugs

[Dayvo]

Do you also need to use anti seize compound on the plugs

 

[Crunchy Granola]

Do you also need to use anti seize compound on the plugs

Personally I don't use anti siese on spark plugs because it's messy **** and I hate the stuff. A few drops of good quality oil on the threads and not over tightening them and you should be fine. Iff you do use anti siese make sure none gets into the combustion chambers because it will pretty much act like sandpaper in there.

 

[Dayvo]

Personally I don't use anti siese on spark plugs because it's messy **** and I hate the stuff. A few drops of good quality oil on the threads and not over tightening them and you should be fine. Iff you do use anti siese make sure none gets into the combustion chambers because it will pretty much act like sandpaper in there.

Ok thanks, the reason I asked is that I the Gregory's manual it says to use it but when I googled it most say not to .

 

[chrisp]

Do you also need to use anti seize compound on the plugs

From what I’ve read, the recommendation is apparently ‘no’. Apparently the anti-seize compound can play havoc with the torque readings - so the plugs can be easily over tightened risking breaking the plug or stripping the thread.

The other thing I have read is that the plating on the plugs severs as an anti-seize coating. But it is only good for one (or so?) application, so if the plugs are removed and reinstalled, it might not work (and the plug might seize). Some will use anti seize compound if reusing plugs (but be very careful of the torque).

To the OP, also read up on how to remove plugs from an alloy head. Don’t force them if they suddenly bind. The correct method is to work them in and out as you undo them the break up the carbon build up. So, undo them about a quarter turn or so, then screw it back in an eighth of a turn, and keep doing that until the plug completely frees up (usually within a full turn or so). Try and make them come out ‘by hand’ without having to really forcing them at all (after the initial untightening).

 

[Ginger Beer]

Ok thanks, the reason I asked is that I the Gregory's manual it says to use it but when I googled it most say not to .

Google lies, sometimes

I personally have always used a "little" smear of anti seize on plugs

I also use brake grease on caliper pins and the back of pads

The important thing is to not over tighten them, I go finger tight, then half a turn to get a gas seal

And just like Google, opinions may vary

 

[Crunchy Granola]

Ok thanks, the reason I asked is that I the Gregory's manual it says to use it but when I googled it most say not to .

From what I’ve read, the recommendation is apparently ‘no’. Apparently the anti-seize compound can play havoc with the torque readings - so the plugs can be easily over tightened risking breaking the plug or stripping the thread.

The other thing I have read is that the plating on the plugs severs as an anti-seize coating. But it is only good for one (or so?) application, so if the plugs are removed and reinstalled, it might not work (and the plug might seize). Some will use anti seize compound if reusing plugs (but be very careful of the torque).

To the OP, also read up on how to remove plugs from an alloy head. Don’t force them if they suddenly bind. The correct method is to work them in and out as you undo them the break up the carbon build up. So, undo them about a quarter turn or so, then screw it back in an eighth of a turn, and keep doing that until the plug completely frees up (usually within a full turn or so). Try and make them come out ‘by hand’ without having to really forcing them at all (after the initial untightening

Google lies, sometimes

I personally have always used a "little" smear of anti seize on plugs

I also use brake grease on caliper pins and the back of pads

The important thing is to not over tighten them, I go finger tight, then half a turn to get a gas seal

And ju

Google lies, sometimes

I personally have always used a "little" smear of anti seize on plugs

I also use brake grease on caliper pins and the back of pads

The important thing is to not over tighten them, I go finger tight, then half a turn to get a gas seal

And just like Google, opinions may vary

It would be a pretty boring world if every one agreed all the time.

 

[Dayvo]

Ok thanks , I don't think I'll worry about using the anti seize compound.

 

[Ginger Beer]

It would be a pretty boring world if every one agreed all the time.

As long as it is based off sound engineering principles, the Googles is too full of opinions with not alot of actual sound engineering

My advice is to do what the parts manufacturer recommends for their product as some plugs do have a anti-seize for initial installation, others don't

I'm not sure what TR6 is in relation to anti-seize on new plugs

In saying this I swap out my copper plugs every 5k km, and iridium plugs at 50k km

Whilst they say that iridium will last 100k km, that is typically for daily drivers, but if your leaning on your car, I've found they only really last 50k km, after that they seem to start being "not optimal" for performance

 

[hademall]

Ok thanks , I don't think I'll worry about using the anti seize compound.

Just hold your tongue right as you undo them

 

[aussie4life]

My car is the same as yours year.
Can you let me know what you get please.
And what you take out.
They are the first ones that came with the new car.

Id be curious to know the answer as well. When i first got my VE, i did the usual fluids, plugs and coils. After a quick search, i went with some Twin Tip Iridium plugs but im now wondering if theyre underperforming and i need something else. Ive had one die on me and cause a misfire.