Sealing up hose barb into air pipe - what product to use?

[dassaur]

Hey team.
**Preamble**
Last week I had to get my cylinder head spark plug thread repaired (wasn't me who broke it but long story) - machinist did a great job. But I discovered my intake manifold had a decent amount of oil in it, more than I expected. Especially the intake runner for cylinder 7. The car is at 95k kms, and I rebuilt the top end at 88k. I am comparing it to then where there was what I would say is a regular amount of oil. Compared to before rebuild I have been doing a lot more WOT pulls - this isnt scientific, but I reckon it doesnt help.

Anyway, I am going to be putting an Elite Engineering catch can with dual exits so it is not limited to the intake manifold vacuum but splice into my OTR intake on the opposite side of the breather to add an exit from the catch can - this will mean at WOT and acceleration I can draw a vacuum.

**Question**
So, now to the actual question. I will drill a hole smaller than the OD of the hose barb, squeeze the barb in and then thought I should seal it on the barb flange - any thoughts as to what product to use on the flexible plastic the OTR is made of?
The part I will drill into is this:

The barb looks like this:

 

[07GTS]

is there enough meat in the barb to thread it so then u can just use a nut and tighten it in there against the central boss ?

 

[07GTS]

or if u have OTR i just fitted some AN- bulkheads into the plastic on the TB side of the filter so it gets slight vacuum

 

[dassaur]

or if u have OTR i just fitted some AN- bulkheads into the plastic on the TB side of the filter so it gets slight vacuum

This is a good idea but the barb needs to go against the housing in a particular orientation for airflow (the flange needs to sit flush (45degree angle) which a bulkhead wouldn't work. I am not sure of the science behind the barb angle v bulkhead or any other type of access.

And yes I need to put it before TB and after MAF

 

[07GTS]

This is a good idea but the barb needs to go against the housing in a particular orientation for airflow (the flange needs to sit flush (45degree angle) which a bulkhead wouldn't work. I am not sure of the science behind the barb angle v bulkhead or any other type of access.

And yes I need to put it before TB and after MAF

yea not sure about the angle seems odd, if u have it in a sealed space like intake it will have air drawn from all angles unless its trying to get like a venturi style affect if the angle is facing the TB

 

[dassaur]

yea not sure about the angle seems odd, if u have it in a sealed space like intake it will have air drawn from all angles unless its trying to get like a venturi style affect if the angle is facing the TB

Yes that's the idea!

 

[lmoengnr]

This is a good idea but the barb needs to go against the housing in a particular orientation for airflow (the flange needs to sit flush (45degree angle) which a bulkhead wouldn't work. I am not sure of the science behind the barb angle v bulkhead or any other type of access.

And yes I need to put it before TB and after MAF

What material is the barb, and the duct you need it to bond to?

 

[RevNev]

any thoughts as to what product to use on the flexible plastic the OTR is made of?

Loctite 401 is what I'd use on that material, it's a superglue and extremely good for that type of application.

 

[Skylarking]

any thoughts as to what product to use on the flexible plastic the OTR is made of?

If it’s a hard plastic, it may be glass reinforced nylon which is one of the used plastic in cars.

In such cases Permabond TA4660 , which is specifically formulated for nylons, should do the trick nicely. It’s a 2 part double plunger mixtube type adhesive that’s quick setting but not superglue instant like the cheaper Loctite 401 (which has limitations with some plastics)…

Haven’t used either so I’d look at any plastic code markings before deciding which is the best glue in your specific case.

Really the biggest problem glueing plastics is identifying the plastic in question and then choosing the appropriate glue to do the job well… I’ve posted links that provide info on such stuff somewhere within the 270 odd pages of HSV-Paul’s My HSV Clubsport thread

 

[RevNev]

superglue instant like the cheaper Loctite 401 (which has limitations with some plastics)…

Loctite 406 is the all plastics superglue, good for gluing broken trim clips etc. 401 glues metals together and metal to plastic. 401 should work mint gluing a metal spud into a plastic air intake component that is already an interference fit.

Particularly external plastics, bumpers, air dams etc can be challenging to find an appropriate adhesive for the different types of plastics used in those applications.

Sikaflex 227 glued a rear diffuser to the bumper well in the is application (below) and takes a knife to cut through the Sikaflex to separate them. I used hot glue in a few places to hold it together initially and get a healthy bead of Sikaflex behind the two components to let it dry and cure. The diffuser is bolted to the body underneath and presses against the bumper cut out.