Sealing up hose barb into air pipe - what product to use?

[Skylarking]

Loctite 406 is the all plastics superglue, good for gluing broken trim clips etc. 401 glues metals together and metal to plastic. 401 should work mint gluing a metal spud into a plastic air intake component that is already an interference fit.

Particularly external plastics, bumpers, air dams etc can be challenging to find an appropriate adhesive for the different types of plastics used in those applications.

Sikaflex 227 glued a rear diffuser to the bumper well in the is application (below) and takes a knife to cut through the Sikaflex to separate them. I used hot glue in a few places to hold it together initially and get a healthy bead of Sikaflex behind the two components to let it dry and cure. The diffuser is bolted to the body underneath and presses against the bumper cut out.

View attachment 264873

According to the manufacturer, Loctite 401 is best used with porous substrates and works for instant bonding of most plastics according to the product description. And Loctite 406 is designed especially for the fast bonding of plastics and rubbers and when combined with their superglue primers, it can also be used on difficult to bond plastics.

But even though you’ve has success with these, and I don’t doubt you have, I’ve had some problems with bonding some plastics that state they work with “most plastics”. Thats why I prefer to identify the plastic(s) needing to be bonded and then use a specific glue that mention specific suitability to the materials in question.

Sometimes trying to clean up one failed glue repair and then using another glue just adds too much of a PITA to the repair/mod process

Having said that. I’m a fan of superglues mixed with baking sofa or sawdust or carbon powder and such … Doing this can make for an interesting repair or remanufacture of otherwise unrepairable broken parts.

 

[dassaur]

Appreciate it @Skylarking I have no idea what sort of plastic it is! It's very flexible, I can't imagine its nylon reinforced like coolant tank parts etc. There are no markings on it that I could find.
Thanks @RevNev I will try 401 and see how it goes.

 

[lmoengnr]

Loctite 406 is the all plastics superglue, good for gluing broken trim clips etc. 401 glues metals together and metal to plastic. 401 should work mint gluing a metal spud into a plastic air intake component that is already an interference fit.

Particularly external plastics, bumpers, air dams etc can be challenging to find an appropriate adhesive for the different types of plastics used in those applications.

Sikaflex 227 glued a rear diffuser to the bumper well in the is application (below) and takes a knife to cut through the Sikaflex to separate them. I used hot glue in a few places to hold it together initially and get a healthy bead of Sikaflex behind the two components to let it dry and cure. The diffuser is bolted to the body underneath and presses against the bumper cut out.

View attachment 264873

If you can guarantee an 'interference fit', definitely try 401.

 

[RevNev]

According to the manufacturer, Loctite 401 is best used with porous substrates and works for instant bonding of most plastics according to the product description. And Loctite 406 is designed especially for the fast bonding of plastics and rubbers and when combined with their superglue primers, it can also be used on difficult to bond plastics.

My superglue experience is mainly interior trim clips breaking when disassembling plastic components that have aged and become brittle and Loctite 401 works great on most except a VF cluster binnacle or HUD cover. It's a softer more pliable plastic and the other Loctite option in a superglue was 406 and worked well and much better than 401 in that application. I'd say for sure, 406 is more effective on wider range of plastics than 401, but 401 also glue metals particularly aluminum using acetone as a primer.

Wheel arch liners are a funny plastic that neither 401 nor 406 works particularly well, likewise with some plastic bumper clips the superglue type adhesives aren't the best. There's an endless number of plastic compositions presenting a challenge to find the most ideal adhesive.

 

[lmoengnr]

My superglue experience is mainly interior trim clips breaking when disassembling plastic components that have aged and become brittle and Loctite 401 works great on most except a VF cluster binnacle or HUD cover. It's a softer more pliable plastic and the other Loctite option in a superglue was 406 and worked well and much better than 401 in that application. I'd say for sure, 406 is more effective on wider range of plastics than 401, but 401 also glue metals particularly aluminum using acetone as a primer.

Wheel arch liners are a funny plastic that neither 401 nor 406 works particularly well, likewise with some plastic bumper clips the superglue type adhesives aren't the best. There's an endless number of plastic compositions presenting a challenge to find the most ideal adhesive.

I've used 401 to glue some strange shaped objects to a lathe face plate for turning, that I couldn't mount in conventional chucks.
Used tissue paper as a substrate, which makes it easier to remove with a heat gun.
It seems a bit sketchy, and I don't run it faster than 400 RPM, but it never flew off.
First time I did it, I wore safety glasses and a face shield...

 

[dassaur]

Got around to doing this and loctite 401 worked a treat. Put a bead of sika 227 (not 221 as initially said) for some flex with the heat on the outside too to prevent vacuum leaks.
Now successfully running a dual exit catch can.

 

[dassaur]

Thanks for everyone's help. Finished product below.

 

[dassaur]

In hindsight, I wish I put the barb a little offset because there's some contact with the hood but marginal. The can works at least, already collected some oil.

 

[RevNev]

Finished product below.

That's a bit high tech for me!

This is my catch can setup on a race engine.

 

[dassaur]

That's a bit high tech for me!

This is my catch can setup on a race engine.

View attachment 266237

Nice, but from all my research catch cans dont do much (if anything) at high acceleration - 'cause intake manifold has no vacuum, therefore can wont draw anything out of intake.
The way mine works it has dirty air in (middle) and 2 clean air out - from wherever higher vacuum is found (intake manifold at low throttle and post maf high throttle)

Now @RevNev if you can educate me I am all ears!

It's my understanding the can needs an alternate source of vacuum for oil separation at high throttle.