Stability Fault causing ABS and Cruise Control Issues

[bowmanj]

Hi,

I know there's a lot of these on here and I've read a fair few of them. I have a similar issue with my 2010 3.0L Omega Sedan and I would like to see if anybody has any ideas before I thrown more money at the problem. The vehicle was having issue with the Brakes being soft so early last year I took it in and they told me it needs a new brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster which I paid for. After that I was having stability error come up occasionally on my LCD so I took it back in and they told me it was a faulty Brake Light switch so they replaced that. After this the car went back in several time where they had to re install a new brake light switch as the one they installed was "faulty" and they also had to replace the master cylinder they installed as that too was "faulty". Since then I have returned the car too them because the stability error still comes on, now every time I start the car and also my cruise control doesn't work (as in it turns on but it wont 'set' the speed). They've knocked me back and told me it is nothing they have done and that they can not figure out what is wrong and I need to take it into an Auto Sparky.

The only reason I am now reluctant to send it into an Auto sparky is that the car is getting older (190000kms) and I don't want to spend more money only to have the problems not get solved or lead to further problems. I'm posting this to see if these are events other VE owners have experienced and solved. I've diagnosed some of the issue myself, It seems that if I slightly press down of the brake pedal (I'm talking very slight 1-2cm) the brake lights don't turn on but also the cruise control can set and hold a speed as long as I have that slight pressure on it (if I press it down any more it operates as normal ie Brakes engage, lights come on cruise control disengages). So it seems like the vehicle is not getting the correct feedback about my wheel speed whilst the brake pedal is not engaged which could be the cause of the issues. I thought this could be the ABS at fault, I bought a second hand module (I don't feel confident replacing the pump) and the car still operated as it did before but now with the ABS light on (I assume due to the module not being coded in). Now I am thinking it could be the ABS pump that needs to be replaced. I'm happy to have someone do this but before I do has anybody else experienced similar issues as me and if so what was the solution?

Thanks,

 

[lout]

take it to a different mechanic
i would think it was misdiagnosed from the start
have brake pedal calibrated and scan for codes

 

[Fu Manchu]

Step one. Have the battery load tested. Have the charge circuit tested and have the battery health confirmed. All of those things are done a specific way and ideally with dedicated devices.

On VE, low voltage conditions will present just as you are seeing. With compromised voltage, the ECM starts isolating some systems. It does this to preserve available voltage. It robs Peter to pay Paul. It directs the available voltage to more critical systems. It rations it. This creates false codes and phantoms system faults.

Such a simple thing for many to miss.

Even if your battery is new. Assume nothing. Many of us could give examples of how a new battery can be ruined in days if underlying problems are not dealt with.

Taking the steps I outlined in chapter one of this post will rule out some very simple causes.

 

[bowmanj]

Thank you for your replies. I will take these on board and post back with the results

 

[bowmanj]

I've made some progress. Firstly I replaced the battery, it was due for a replacement so that was fine but it had no change to the symptons of the car.

I've found out that my brake lights are also not working properly, this really narrowed the issue down for me to the brake light switch. Here's where I'm at. This all started happening when the Mechanics replaced my Master Cylinder and Brake Booster. I started getting stability issues etc. and I kept taking the car back (several times and many many weeks of having no car later). I believe that at least the master cylinder and maybe the brake booster did need replacing but upon their installation a string of errors have occurred.

Firstly they said it was a faulty brake light switch which I paid to be replaced and they also re replaced the master cylinder saying that the one they installed was dodgy. I suspect they were wrong on both accounts. Upon the works taking place the brake pedal has always been different, there is a lot more 'free play' in the pedal so they moved the height of the pedal up something I really am annoyed at and can't even get them to acknowledge. I think they replaced the master cylinder at their own cost because they misdiagnosed excess free play in a pedal with sponginess. They then raised the height of the pedal with the new master cylinder so the pedal wouldn't hit the floor. The free play in the pedal Im guessing came from them incorrectly adjusting the brake booster push rod during installation (I'm thinking I might try fix this issue myself). With all these changes to the brake pedal behaviour I think it has left my brake light switch completely uncalibrated but I am struggling to find information of what to do with this.

If the Brake pedal height gets adjusted does the brake light switch need to be recalibrated and if so how? I would like to point out that the brake light switch on a VE commodore is not a button it is a device on a swivel. I would call it a brake pedal position sensor but I cannot seem to find any post of store item that uses that name.

This is a picture of the switch so no one gets confused by my words (I've been confusing myself). I removed the switch from the bracket (I did not unseat the harness) and played around with it. Doing so did remove all the stability issues (YAY) but there are gremlins in there. I started using my hand to move the lever from extent to extent and doing so did trigger my stability issue and the brake lights would turn on and off as expected however sometimes there would be a flicker when going from the on position to the off position.

In short switch on extent > Switch off extent: Brake light on > Brake Lights off > Brake light flicker (on/off) > Brake lights off.

Upon reinstalling the switch on to the bracket the stability issues are going, I can turn stability assist on and off as per normal. but the brake lights are always on (this would be because I haven't put the switch in the correct position and I need to adjust it). My question is though with brake pedal adjustments does a switch light this need to be recalibrated? and if so could doing so fix the issues with the car. To me it really feels like the computer is just incorrectly interpreting the brake light switchs feedback.

Thanks,

 

[Fu Manchu]

Tech2 or similar will calibrate the switch.

 

[jeffs2008/my09]

Hi,

I know there's a lot of these on here and I've read a fair few of them. I have a similar issue with my 2010 3.0L Omega Sedan and I would like to see if anybody has any ideas before I thrown more money at the problem. The vehicle was having issue with the Brakes being soft so early last year I took it in and they told me it needs a new brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster which I paid for. After that I was having stability error come up occasionally on my LCD so I took it back in and they told me it was a faulty Brake Light switch so they replaced that. After this the car went back in several time where they had to re install a new brake light switch as the one they installed was "faulty" and they also had to replace the master cylinder they installed as that too was "faulty". Since then I have returned the car too them because the stability error still comes on, now every time I start the car and also my cruise control doesn't work (as in it turns on but it wont 'set' the speed). They've knocked me back and told me it is nothing they have done and that they can not figure out what is wrong and I need to take it into an Auto Sparky.

The only reason I am now reluctant to send it into an Auto sparky is that the car is getting older (190000kms) and I don't want to spend more money only to have the problems not get solved or lead to further problems. I'm posting this to see if these are events other VE owners have experienced and solved. I've diagnosed some of the issue myself, It seems that if I slightly press down of the brake pedal (I'm talking very slight 1-2cm) the brake lights don't turn on but also the cruise control can set and hold a speed as long as I have that slight pressure on it (if I press it down any more it operates as normal ie Brakes engage, lights come on cruise control disengages). So it seems like the vehicle is not getting the correct feedback about my wheel speed whilst the brake pedal is not engaged which could be the cause of the issues. I thought this could be the ABS at fault, I bought a second hand module (I don't feel confident replacing the pump) and the car still operated as it did before but now with the ABS light on (I assume due to the module not being coded in). Now I am thinking it could be the ABS pump that needs to be replaced. I'm happy to have someone do this but before I do has anybody else experienced similar issues as me and if so what was the solution?

Thanks,

Hi Everyone,
Last Thursday I was coming home from Bankstown and heard a chime in my car's dashboard I looked at my dash and this come UP IN MIDDLE STABILITY CONTROLLER TURNED ITSELF OFF
I was doing 80 kph when I went to stop my brakes steering all felt like motor had stopped and that's exactly what had occurred.

I have never experienced such a dangerous event in any of my commodore's which shocked me to contact Holden for advice Whilst talking to the service Mechanic asked me have I been having any issues since we checked your voltage and battery under load which I quickly told him that I've been experiencing lots of weird sensor failures told to me from Mechanic at Cronulla Auto Transmission and Auto electrical/Mechanical repairs.

I got these repaired and the oil pressure switch.Had my coolant system flushed and correct Red coolant put in,a new Radiator Cap 140 kpa 20psi from Holden.New Petrol Cap Holden as these all were indicating issues. I'm of the opinion there could be a voltage issue or my ECU is stuffed and I have been advised those can be expensive at $1800.00
In the meantime this car even thought it was purchased from a dealer with Integrity Car care known as RELIANCE EXTENDED WARRANTY. Is a major concern as this business are reviewed with problems with services being done each 6 months or 10,000
Klms even though I have only done a total of 7365 Klms since buying it.

I've now spent a lot of money,got lots fixed without any possible proof it required these fixed as I'm still getting those same messages on my dash X CONTACT DEALER (ONLY) had it serviced and transmission checked out on 24/1/2024 Now I don't know what to do except for Having Fair Trading to check the Dealer for selling this vehicle to me with constant issues all of which started when I had car serviced and this all just started to happen.

What would you look at if this was your ride? I am totally Lost not a mechanic and at my age I don't have any issues with my information provided from this cars previous owner.As he had the car serviced each time it was due,replaced timing belts,ignition coils,all the fluids,fuses,just about everything that made this Calais what it is today.I don't know who or what to do now after so long trying to find the cause of this mess.

I never turned this OFF I don't know

jeff

 

[bowmanj]

Hi Everyone,
Last Thursday I was coming home from Bankstown and heard a chime in my car's dashboard I looked at my dash and this come UP IN MIDDLE STABILITY CONTROLLER TURNED ITSELF OFF
I was doing 80 kph when I went to stop my brakes steering all felt like motor had stopped and that's exactly what had occurred.

I have never experienced such a dangerous event in any of my commodore's which shocked me to contact Holden for advice Whilst talking to the service Mechanic asked me have I been having any issues since we checked your voltage and battery under load which I quickly told him that I've been experiencing lots of weird sensor failures told to me from Mechanic at Cronulla Auto Transmission and Auto electrical/Mechanical repairs.

I got these repaired and the oil pressure switch.Had my coolant system flushed and correct Red coolant put in,a new Radiator Cap 140 kpa 20psi from Holden.New Petrol Cap Holden as these all were indicating issues. I'm of the opinion there could be a voltage issue or my ECU is stuffed and I have been advised those can be expensive at $1800.00
In the meantime this car even thought it was purchased from a dealer with Integrity Car care known as RELIANCE EXTENDED WARRANTY. Is a major concern as this business are reviewed with problems with services being done each 6 months or 10,000
Klms even though I have only done a total of 7365 Klms since buying it.

I've now spent a lot of money,got lots fixed without any possible proof it required these fixed as I'm still getting those same messages on my dash X CONTACT DEALER (ONLY) had it serviced and transmission checked out on 24/1/2024 Now I don't know what to do except for Having Fair Trading to check the Dealer for selling this vehicle to me with constant issues all of which started when I had car serviced and this all just started to happen.

What would you look at if this was your ride? I am totally Lost not a mechanic and at my age I don't have any issues with my information provided from this cars previous owner.As he had the car serviced each time it was due,replaced timing belts,ignition coils,all the fluids,fuses,just about everything that made this Calais what it is today.I don't know who or what to do now after so long trying to find the cause of this mess.

I never turned this OFF I don't know

jeff View attachment 263831

Hi Jeff, I think this post you have written would be better suited to your own thread.

 

[bowmanj]

Tech2 or similar will calibrate the switch.

I agree, right now I'm thinking I will take it to my local mechanic to get it done. But I am interested in getting one of these tools. There's alot of variability in price points for these from what I understand the cheap ones really just read codes and you need to pay more money for more features (makes sense) what kind of price point would I need to go into to get one that would do a relearn/calibration of the brake light switch?

Thanks,

 

[jeffs2008/my09]

Hi Jeff, I think this post you have written would be better suited to your own thread.

Hi there,
I am sorry all I ever do in here is at the wrong place I'm not doing it on purpose and I do hope it can be moved I will do my best.
Again my sincere apologies.I think this anniversary calais needs to go back to its previous owner it's too dangerous for me,It's sucking dollars and I was warned it will because whatever's causing this stuff to happen is very concerning.

jeff