Transmission Oil

[Ron Burgundy]

Unless there is a catastrophic terminal problem there is no chance of fluid leaking out. So what’s the point in checking fluid level in a closed system?
See the fluid level checking protocol on the 6l80/90 is quite advanced because basically Dexron IV (special ATF) expands its volume with energy (heat) anyway. That’s why even taking your car to local auto trans specialist who does normal slushboxes generally underfills our trans.
In other words like tearing down a PC, it’s not that it can’t be done by anyone but not advisable for most people to make a decision about levels without following the proper procedure. There’s a high chance owner will break it, not fix it.
It does need changing every 80k km - 100k km, or as soon as 1000km if you abuse (cook) it.
Also there were trans dip sticks for our car sold in the US, after 20k - 40k miles water, snow and shit got in through incorrect fitting / refitting, drawing PITA level dipstick up through engine bay past headers.

I still like to inspect the colour and decide when to replace it on basis of that....but I see now why they would have done it

 

[monstar]

Merc has done it with engine oil now...
Can't check it. No dipstick

In over 300k km running this engine hard under various conditions I have never needed to top the oil. It is not a thing of the past, just not a huge issue to have incrementally reported on the dash really, apart from if level is low.

 

[monstar]

I still like to inspect the colour and decide when to replace it on basis of that....but I see now why they would have done it

Yeah I get you, but more fluid in the pan and bigger filter really is the best long term. With this cheap and easy (more fluid / more flow / more cool / less duty) mod you can be confident all you need do is drop the pan every 100k km, no brainer.
Totally recommend that at next big service if you are gonna hang onto it, mine’s done twice the warranted (MTBF) service life zero problems.

 

[Ron Burgundy]

Yeah I get you, but more fluid in the pan and bigger filter really is the best long term. With this cheap and easy (more fluid / more flow / more cool / less duty) mod you can be confident all you need do is drop the pan every 100k km, no brainer.
Totally recommend that at next big service if you are gonna hang onto it, mine’s done twice the warranted (MTBF) service life zero problems.

I will probably do it at 80 000 km or 5 yrs.... whichever comes first

I have only done 14000 km so far. I do about 15 000km a year

 

[VCoz]

While what I posted above seems like 'a dealer only thing' owners in the US are changing the same GM boxes Auto transmission oil - just process needs to be done differently with these boxes. To my understanding (not a mechanic), the proper fluid level when the engine is idling is at some particular level below the drain hole, hence assume a 'raised inlet tube' exists (i.e. may have a tube inside the drain hole that extends above the oil level at idle). Jayden must have removed the plug with the engine not running to lose fluid. Surely what we should first focus on is helping Jayden get his car going again with simple instructions from someone that has changed their A6 fluid (probably most of the fluid is still in his box but not enough to get running again without risks (guess less than a litre lost)) - the GM 'tool' I guess just measures the level fluid is below the drain's 'raised tube' which happens to also be the entry point of new fluid. Suggest someone 'not guessing' provide a simple fix (bent wire or whatever with measurements) to determine the actual fluid level or determine if filling on idle to the top of the drain (until fluid runs out) means the transmission is filled too much to run the car and take it to have the level checked at a dealer or Transmission specialist. The procedure to top up the transmission is out there somewhere or with a member of this blog. If as suspected self-changing the fluid is doable for many owners then the decision where to get the service done at around 100k is not limited to the dealer should the owner have the correct method and want to do the work. The debate has moved from finding a fix for an owner's error and to help them.

 

[VCoz]

Found this (for 6L80 (V8 A6) but assume applies: again only guessing as not done it (note level control plug is what we are assuming is the drain plug). See the images on the linked site (shows plugs) and read the other information. Appears not so hard to get the car mobile.

https://etesupport.zendesk.com/hc/e...ll-Guide-6L80-6L90-GM-Automatic-Transmission-

FLUID CHECK PROCEDURE
6L80 / 6L90 transmissions do not typically use a dipstick. Proper fluid level is achieved when fluid begins to drip from the
Level Control Plug opening.
1. Verify vehicle is on level ground when performing fluid
level check procedure.
2. Verify drive wheels are blocked and parking brake is
applied.
3. Verify engine is idling at 0% throttle.
4. Verify transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is between
86°F and 122°F.
5. Shift transmission through entire range – hold in each
range for at least three (3) seconds. When complete,
shift vehicle back into PARK.
6. Remove Fill Plug. Remove Level Control Plug.
7. If fluid does not drip from hole (underfill condition), add
fluid until fluid drips slightly from hole.
8. If fluid runs from hole when Level Control Plug is
removed (overfill condition), allow fluid to flow until
only a slight drip remains.
9. Reinstall Level Control Plug. Reinstall Fill Plug.
10. DO NOT OPERATE VEHICLE BEFORE OR AFTER
PROPER FLUID LEVEL HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED.

 

[GUZZLA]

To the OPs original question, I'm sure by now you've sort professional help. Getting the transmission oil level correct is quite a complex process as i found out doing a drain and flush on a FJ Cruiser I owned. It essentially requires the use of a device that can measure trans oil temp in real time, or to know what terminals to bridge in the obd2 port to cause the computer to go into trans temp monitoring and reporting (usually a series of flashes on the gear selector or dash). Trans fluid expands in volume at certain temperatures and needs to be installed in a particularly narrow temp range to determine the correct volume.

I do hope you can get or have got it sorted without too much inconvenience or expense.

 

[GUZZLA]

Also to the OP, I'm curious to know many km on your vehicle and did you happen to notice the colour of the oil? Was it bright red or brown? Did it smell sweet or burnt?

 

[monstar]

Surely what we should first focus on is helping Jayden get his car going again with simple instructions from someone that has changed their A6 fluid
Suggest someone 'not guessing' provide a simple fix
The debate has moved from finding a fix for an owner's error and to help them.

Well I don't know first hand about the 6l45e but don't think pan is same as 6l80, in that he could very well have drained all fluid out of the bottom drain plug. V6 has different pan to the V8.
I think the fill plug is in same location and procedure same, just that OP could well have to start with a full fill vs top-up. You cant really overfill it without really trying BTW.
Dexron VI is hugely expensive stuff, unfortunately. Nothing in it for OP than get a squeeze bottle and 10 litres Dexron VI from SuperCheap or Autobarn or Bursons.

 

[Ron Burgundy]

Good video

This shows you how to check level properly and add oil. Tricky but right way to do it.