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Upgrades for turbo cars

ryno_vrx

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upgrade the injectors 740cc about $650
upgraded in tank fuel pump (gtr) $180
upgraded to a t25/t28 flanged turbo around $2000
new plug n play ecu $1200-1800
upgrade the airflow meter to a z32 item or similar as it chokes around 190rwkws
last area to look out for is the standard valve train as the rocker arms are known to break or begin to float at high rpm.
then enjoy
 

cameron20020

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for gods sake. please dont set it up to suck in hot air from the engine bay, from a pod filter, like the dumb bastards did on my brothers VL before he bought it. perhaps a good cool air intake will do you good.

but yeah cams for the turbo will give it more top end grunt i think
 

soop

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Cams are the least of your worry...

Now i understand the theory behind Cold air induction. But honestly the turbo is spinning at what? 250000rpm?
They get to about 600c.
The intake charge is going to be freaking hot regardless of where the air is pulled from. Thats the why people use intercoolers. The only benifit I can see in a CAI is they generally flow better then the standard setup. (CAI doesn't necissarily mean a fuggin god awefull pod filter.)
 

Low_VX_Taxi

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Cams are the least of your worry...

Now i understand the theory behind Cold air induction. But honestly the turbo is spinning at what? 250000rpm?
They get to about 600c.
The intake charge is going to be freaking hot regardless of where the air is pulled from. Thats the why people use intercoolers. The only benifit I can see in a CAI is they generally flow better then the standard setup. (CAI doesn't necissarily mean a fuggin god awefull pod filter.)

I have a CAI: large flexible tube mounted on the lower extremities of the front bar running to a standard air box with a bigger opening (and a higher flowing filter of course) on my car. I beleive keeping down operating temps is a good thing, even if its only a little and not going to make a huge difference like an intercoolder will (I also have a nice cooler too).
 

greenfoam

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My mate has a Silvia and messes around with them a fair bit. He's got a CA18 in his and it's fair mental, still running a stock ecu (retuned). Must have near 200rwkw, very quick little car. He runs the NA cams or at least one of them, a good roller bearing turbo, bigger maf and a big cooler, also better injectors. Apart from that it's all stock
 

ari666

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oh ffs sake, read the first three posts and nearly threw up.

so unless you are looking at 400-500HP ignore any of that crap. cam isnt gonna do squat anyway at all. to start with you have two cams, the best one to change is exhaust, but even then only when you are pushing over 400.

intercoolers are a joke. depending on what you have already. if you have a nice thick R34 or S15 intercooler, then thats all you need till you decide to push 12 psi. 12 psi can be achieved easily buy simply sticking a bleeder valve in your waste gate actuator feed hose. bumping up to that is a bit riskiy on hot days but normally should be fine with stock air box stock manifold and stock ecu program

oh yeah, air pods suck in hot air off your engine. so ignore that crap as well.

so for a simple 350hp SR20, start with getting your gasses OUT. so get a nice exhaust and de-cat pipe. then look at you air going IN, so bigger MAF (300zx) bigger TB and a GOOD FLOWING INTERCOOLER dont buy that crap off ebay, dont buy a HUGE front mount intercooler, they take longer to expand, therefore take longer to deliver pressure to the engine. think of a blowing up a baloon, its hard if you smoke, but think of trying to blow up three baloons all at the same time while smoking. what you are doing by going bigger cooler is increasing the mass surface area of pressure, thus increasing the time it takes to fill that area, thus increasing your turbo lag.. which on a SR20 is bad enough already cos they have crappy torque curves.
get a good air cleaner element to go in your stock S15 box. the 15 box has 2 sources of CAI so you dont need to be a nonce and go looking for cold air, they breathe just fine.

NOW you go and boost her up. they are good for up to 12 psi stock, 15 is managable for a few thousand kms in cold weather, but you really wanna be looking at new bearings if you have an older one. i have been told a newer S15 will handle 18 but cant confirm that.

now the suckie thing about boost is that if you dont fuel her, youll lose her. so you will need to pluck your fuel return pressure to trick your engine into thinking she is using less fuel than she is so it ups the duty cycle. there is a reg you can get which bolts straight onto the old reg and is adjustable either + or - however you need. doing that will keep her wet at high boost and keep her happy.

better yet, grab a new plenum with extra bosses for new injectors. there is a trust/greddy unit made with 4 bosses, so you have your 4 stockies then 1 per cylinder extra just to keep her wet. :D THEN you can go silly turbo.

have i said enough? i think so.
 
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ari666

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ari666

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upgrade the injectors 740cc about $650
upgraded in tank fuel pump (gtr) $180
upgraded to a t25/t28 flanged turbo around $2000
new plug n play ecu $1200-1800
upgrade the airflow meter to a z32 item or similar as it chokes around 190rwkws
last area to look out for is the standard valve train as the rocker arms are known to break or begin to float at high rpm.
then enjoy

wow, the only piece of good advice on here.
 

VL_5SPEED

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Dont knock the cheap ebay intercoolers. Australias fastest VL turbo manual is running a cheap chinese intercooler.
 
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