VE Calais 09 v6 Many issues I can’t figure out, overhearing. broken down

[Viaperz]

So I’ve bought a lemon, about a year old.

Had to replace all SIDI injectors and cats,

My engine started overheating, I fixed it by bleeding the system and adding more distilled water. This was about 6 months ago

Now it’s over heating more regularly. None to the point of auto shutdown

Today it auto shutdown, threw out these codes. At first I thought it was the water pump because my heater also takes like 10 minutes minimum to pump out hot air.

Anyway here at the codes it three out this morning after dying in the ass on the way to work in full safety/limp mode

1: P1258 manufacturer control code
2: P0506 idle air control system RPM lower than expected

Any ideas boys, I’m ******* stumped for thoughts

 

[hademall]

So I’ve bought a lemon, about a year old.

Had to replace all SIDI injectors and cats,

My engine started overheating, I fixed it by bleeding the system and adding more distilled water. This was about 6 months ago

Now it’s over heating more regularly. None to the point of auto shutdown

Today it auto shutdown, threw out these codes. At first I thought it was the water pump because my heater also takes like 10 minutes minimum to pump out hot air.

Anyway here at the codes it three out this morning after dying in the ass on the way to work in full safety/limp mode

1: P1258 manufacturer control code
2: P0506 idle air control system RPM lower than expected

Any ideas boys, I’m ******* stumped for thoughts

Slow down and take a breath.
The guys on here will help you if you can give a clear history of your car since you have owned it and any prior history you may have.
I’m far from being an expert on anything, but it does appear you may be jumping the gun so to speak.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Proper bleeding procedure.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ve-vf-alloytec-cooling-system-repairs.279976/

 

[Fu Manchu]

Might be something going on with the throttle body and or MAF sensor. Replacing the cats leads me to believe they would have been damaged by something else not at its best.

Get the MAF sensor cleaned.
Make sure there’s a new air filter or at least that it is clean.
Clean the throttle body.

Drop the oil every 5000ks because you don’t know it’s history. Maybe even a few at 2000ks at first.

 

[Viaperz]

Might be something going on with the throttle body and or MAF sensor. Replacing the cats leads me to believe they would have been damaged by something else not at its best.

Get the MAF sensor cleaned.
Make sure there’s a new air filter or at least that it is clean.
Clean the throttle body.

Drop the oil every 5000ks because you don’t know it’s history. Maybe even a few at 2000ks at first.

I’ve changed the oil,

This is the first time it’s thrown these codes, wouldn’t I have other issues related to air intake if it was the MAF sensor before this? Everything implies to me that it’s the coolant temp sensor.

Brand new air filter and oil is changed every 5000kms by myself

 

[Viaperz]

Slow down and take a breath.
The guys on here will help you if you can give a clear history of your car since you have owned it and any prior history you may have.
I’m far from being an expert on anything, but it does appear you may be jumping the gun so to speak.

How am I jumping the gun?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Something as simple as incorrect MAF sensor reading can easily throw out fueling and lead to other sensors logging faults that can be hard to source. Also incorrect TP data from the throttle body can adversely affect other sensors. A vacuum leak.

A fault code does not say what needs replacing. They provide clues to the mystery which can only best be solved with methodical process. The sensors involved may very well be doing exactly what they are designed to do. When data readings are outside set parameters a code is set and serious ones will be displayed on the dash or with an engine light.

In your case it’s entirely possible trapped air (yes you said you bled it) caused an over heating issue and the car shut down as critical protection. However that is only guess work and loading parts cannons with guesses isn’t ideal.

My suggestion is to up the servicing for a while because it’s an unknown and that sets you up well to establish good maintenance now you have it. It’s simply a starting point.

More radical guesses could be a cracked head leaking coolant and it finding it’s way into the cats via combustion. Cats dead.
Compression test.

Go to my link and follow the through air bleed process. It’s amazing how much air is trapped in a system when it’s already “been bled”.

A coolant sensor is cheap and can be done without much hassle. A part swap for sure but with a minor cost.

Try a new radiator cap (140kPa) from Holden. Always genuine. Clean in the coolant inlet pipe where the cap fits.

Check for signs of leaking hoses.

Do not throw out the coolant ratio. A 50:50 mix of red coolant (suited to the Commodore) and demineralised water. Don’t mix coolant types.

 

[Viaperz]

Something as simple as incorrect MAF sensor reading can easily throw out fueling and lead to other sensors logging faults that can be hard to source. Also incorrect TP data from the throttle body can adversely affect other sensors. A vacuum leak.

A fault code does not say what needs replacing. They provide clues to the mystery which can only best be solved with methodical process. The sensors involved may very well be doing exactly what they are designed to do. When data readings are outside set parameters a code is set and serious ones will be displayed on the dash or with an engine light.

In your case it’s entirely possible trapped air (yes you said you bled it) caused an over heating issue and the car shut down as critical protection. However that is only guess work and loading parts cannons with guesses isn’t ideal.

My suggestion is to up the servicing for a while because it’s an unknown and that sets you up well to establish good maintenance now you have it. It’s simply a starting point.

More radical guesses could be a cracked head leaking coolant and it finding it’s way into the cats via combustion. Cats dead.
Compression test.

Go to my link and follow the through air bleed process. It’s amazing how much air is trapped in a system when it’s already “been bled”.

A coolant sensor is cheap and can be done without much hassle. A part swap for sure but with a minor cost.

Try a new radiator cap (140kPa) from Holden. Always genuine. Clean in the coolant inlet pipe where the cap fits.

Check for signs of leaking hoses.

Do not throw out the coolant ratio. A 50:50 mix of red coolant (suited to the Commodore) and demineralised water. Don’t mix coolant types.

I’m going to chuck a new coolant temp sensor in this arvo, attempt to drive it home from where I ditched, pull it up in the driveway and:

1: Clean the MAF sensor
2: drop and replace coolant.
3: pressure test for leaks.
4 and final: change thermostat. As it’s an annoying job on this model.

It’s weird though, I don’t think the MAF has anything to do with this issue, I believe, that the MAF and low rpm code is due to it being in limp mode, the true culprit here is the overheating, which then in turned caused it to go into limp, which then gave the MAF code. As it was struggling hard.

Also doubt it’s a leaking head gasket as my smokes fine, and the cats were burnt out due to leaking injectors over 6 months ago.

 

[Fu Manchu]

1. Change thermostat. (Set aside a long time)
2. Change coolant sensor
3. Bleed out all the air. All of it and it takes around 3 thermostat openings to do it.
4. Clean MAF.

Check for vacuum leaks and cracked headers.

The advise has been given. Do what you want with it.

 

[hademall]

How am I jumping the gun?

I only suggested you may be jumping the gun. Hopefully Fu Manchu’s in depth response may help you