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Ve ss diff & manual gearbox oil ?

losh1971

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yea with the DPE 3'' it sits right up at the fill hole bout a finger width gap to play with, and that whole middle piece is one so have to undo it from the headers and rear mufflers to get to it properly, yea stock diff is still hanging in there but i dont do any big clutch dumps just when its loaded ill use the throttle unless it arcs up with a spirited gear change, i have some stronger axles to go in and ill look at diff when i can, ill prob go with the kaas as it seems better for what i want as it dosnt torque vector like the harrop i dont want it changing sides just want both to lock under power
I'm in the same boat to remove the exhaust it's unbolt it at the cats and remove the whole thing. Mine is 3" too but MagnaFlow. Can you not undo the rear mounting bolts and lower it enough to get to the plugs? I bought the long inhex set as I was tired of undoing the rear mounts and rubber hangers.

+1 for a Kaaz, but you will need to change the oil at 1000km then again in about 5000km, and then about 10,000 and 15k changes after that. They have a run in period where you need to keep it under 80kmph and stop and let it cool every 50-80km for the first 1000km. They generate a lot of heat in the first 1000km and that can damage them if not cared for. My run in period was drive it to work, park and let it cool then drive home.
Also don't use Progear in a Kaaz or you will damage it. You use the Kaaz oil for the first three oil changes then a 140 mineral after that with the additive.
 
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07GTS

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I'm in the same boat to remove the exhaust it's unbolt it at the cats and remove the whole thing. Mine is 3" too but MagnaFlow. Can you not undo the rear mounting bolts and lower it enough to get to the plugs? I bought the long inhex set as I was tired of undoing the rear mounts and rubber hangers.

+1 for a Kaaz, but you will need to change the oil at 1000km then again in about 5000km, and then about 10,000 and 15k changes after that. They have a run in period where you need to keep it under 80kmph and stop and let it cool every 50-80km for the first 1000km. They generate a lot of heat in the first 1000km and that can damage them if not cared for. My run in period was drive it to work, park and let it cool then drive home.
Also don't use Progear in a Kaaz or you will damage it. You use the Kaaz oil for the first three oil changes then a 140 mineral after that with the additive.
not sure about lowering the rear as i dont like the flex on the header bolts as its the only other solid mount point, i think i can get a cut down allen key and undo it but just cant get any hose into then be able to refill it, lucky its only a 12-24 month fluid change, wow thats a run in procedure
 

losh1971

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not sure about lowering the rear as i dont like the flex on the header bolts as its the only other solid mount point, i think i can get a cut down allen key and undo it but just cant get any hose into then be able to refill it, lucky its only a 12-24 month fluid change, wow thats a run in procedure
Ok your DPE is a lot different to my MagnaFlow. I have rubber hangers up front. When I pop it up on the hoist next I'll try and post a pic or two. I'd be interested to see where your rear pipes run and see if you have the same issue I had or if it's worse like it sounds it is? I didn't have room for a short inhex socket without dropping the rear hangers. I tried a 3/8 extension and it was too fat and would foul. However the long inhex socket is just enough room to fit with the pipe in place. It's also the right length that it doesn't foul on the cradle.
My pump has a 10mm OD flex hose and is no problem getting the oil in. My pump is a mower oil extraction pump.

Yeah the run on procedure is a little annoying but with a Kaaz you get a true LSD that is relatively easy maintenance after your third oil change.
 

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Ok your DPE is a lot different to my MagnaFlow. I have rubber hangers up front. When I pop it up on the hoist next I'll try and post a pic or two. I'd be interested to see where your rear pipes run and see if you have the same issue I had or if it's worse like it sounds it is? I didn't have room for a short inhex socket without dropping the rear hangers. I tried a 3/8 extension and it was too fat and would foul. However the long inhex socket is just enough room to fit with the pipe in place. It's also the right length that it doesn't foul on the cradle.
My pump has a 10mm OD flex hose and is no problem getting the oil in. My pump is a mower oil extraction pump.

Yeah the run on procedure is a little annoying but with a Kaaz you get a true LSD that is relatively easy maintenance after your third oil change.
aah yea i do have the rubber hangers at the front but they would just stretch to get the rear low enough to get to the diff fill hole
 

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actually had a look at mine today and i must have been thinking bout the old system, my top fill plug is easy to get to its above the exhaust, its just the bottom drain plug that will require a allen key with most of the end cut of to shorten it to undo
 

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actually had a look at mine today and i must have been thinking bout the old system, my top fill plug is easy to get to its above the exhaust, its just the bottom drain plug that will require a allen key with most of the end cut of to shorten it to undo
I use the right size bit (or a cut down allen key head) to fit, with a ratchet spanner. For me it's a 1/4" ratchet spanner.
Yours possibly bigger?
 

losh1971

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actually had a look at mine today and i must have been thinking bout the old system, my top fill plug is easy to get to its above the exhaust, its just the bottom drain plug that will require a allen key with most of the end cut of to shorten it to undo
No photo of mine yet, been busy with other projects. But I wonder if you could sneak a long in-hex socket past the exhaust like I can, I have a 3" system too. You would need a bit over half the plug exposed, and you may not have that. I can't get a 3/8 extension over it as it's too fat, but I can just sneak the long in-hex socket over the tailpipe and just fit the 3/8 breaker bar on the end without fouling on the cradle. Once loose I can get the ratchet on. For some reason they tighten up after a run and I don't feel comfortable using the ratchet to loosen it.
 

07GTS

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I use the right size bit (or a cut down allen key head) to fit, with a ratchet spanner. For me it's a 1/4" ratchet spanner.
Yours possibly bigger?
yea wont fit a socket on the drain plug maby just a little ''bit'' with the spanner or allen key i got the feeling they are usually tight to get off and allen key flexes, may even have to tack weld a cut allen key piece to the spanner so its easier

No photo of mine yet, been busy with other projects. But I wonder if you could sneak a long in-hex socket past the exhaust like I can, I have a 3" system too. You would need a bit over half the plug exposed, and you may not have that. I can't get a 3/8 extension over it as it's too fat, but I can just sneak the long in-hex socket over the tailpipe and just fit the 3/8 breaker bar on the end without fouling on the cradle. Once loose I can get the ratchet on. For some reason they tighten up after a run and I don't feel comfortable using the ratchet to loosen it.
yea i dont have my rear under body bits on there so i can go thru the cradle to get to it looks like enough room for a 1/2'' socket drive allen bit for the fill plug
 
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