I'll tag for him to explain the aftermarket traction control system he had fitted.
Copy pasta from another thread
As for the RaceTCS, it is in my mind the best budget aftermarket traction control for anything with the stock ECU and a cable throttle, no need to pull timing in areas of the map, which is a double edged sword, if you have traction it gives all of the powers, it only cuts if it goes beyond a set % of wheel spin, and it cuts on and off millisecond fast, the best bit was the log support and updates for tuning all the settings in the configurator, it is top notch, plus the updates come in fast, like typically the same day, and "
FREE" to boot, they even look at things like drivetrain inertia when it shifts (I never even thought about how drivetrain inertia effects traction during a shift until they told me about it), my final updated configurator, after sending about 12 logs over 6 days, and getting 6 updates, gave me a 3.96 second 0-100 on my Hankook 255/40 17 street tyres on a dry section of black top, that really speaks for itself as there was no way in hell I could get anywhere close to that 0-100 without it, I still haven't tried my Mickey T 275/40 17 drag radials on that section of black top, let alone at WSID on a "
prepped" track, but I do expect good results, hell, I'm more than happy with the 0-100 kph now, but as you can see from the log, the RaceTCS is working hard cutting in 1st on the street tyres, the drag radials can only help with traction, thus less cuts and more available powers
The green line is where the traction control is working, the red is RPM, the blue is KPH
An added bonus now IRT taking the drivetrain inertia into account, is because the drivetrain isn't spinning as hard due to wheel spin at the 1-2 shift, the car how hooks 100% in 2nd on a dry road, before, it would spin through the 1-2 shift, now it just hooks, winner winner chicken dInner
That 3.96 0-100 was from going WOT from stationary, no pedaling, I just mashed the pedal to the floor and held on
I mentioned best for a cable throttle, but it work just as well with a electric throttle body
The only other option is to buy a aftermarket ECU and all that that intakes
I did look at the Haltech 2500T, but for what I needed, the RaceTCS was a fraction of the cost
As for the HTV2300
More cut and past
The initial cost for the HTV2300 installed and tuned was around $15k, then I worked out you really need a interchiller as the WTA alone didn't keep AIT in check, that cost a few grand to purchase, install and retune ( a interchiller is a must with a PD IMO), then for best efficiency of a interchiller I needed thermal spacers, about another $1k, then retune, then, with thermal spacers the PD didn't fit under the bonnet, the only correct way to get it to fit was to clearance the bonnet (I initially tried spacing out the K-frame to lower the engine but that caused issues with the front tail shaft alignment, caused some vibration, and flogged out the front coupler and center bearing, about $1k to get the tailshaft fully rebuilt with new couplers and center bearing and a rebalance), so chop chop on the bonnet was required and the need to fit a Group A bonnet bulge and repaint which cost about $1k
Then, because after removing the spacers on the K-frame for it to fit under the bonnet (it actually hit the bonnet liner at WOT, as the Harrop HTV2300 was designed to "just" fit under the bonnet without thermal spacers, it raised the blower up about 20mm due to the spacers, now the bulge gave me ample clearance from the bonnet
BUT, yeah, there's always a but, now the rear top pulley on the back of the blower was 20mm higher, it did have enough clearance with the K-frame spacers (which needed to be removed as stated above with the tail shaft issue), but then when the engine torqued up at WOT, even with the Mace Unbreakable engine mounts, the rear pulley allen head bolts "just" hit a lip on the firewall (by just I mean about it "didn't miss hitting by 2mm), so off came the blower, and with a little bit of "
clearancing" with a hammer and a rattle can rebuild, and swapping out the socket cap bolts for shorter button head, all was well in the world and I had clearance everywhere, finally..........
So all in about $20k and "alot" of issues needing fixing for me to be 100% happy
Don't get me wrong, the car goes great "now", but a well sized and responsive turbo, or 2, with all the quality thermal protection and supporting mods it would require, could have given me typical power to what the PD gave, but without the clearance or IAT issues I ended up with, for quite a bit of saved dollars
Yes, if your doing all the work and tuning yourself it would have cost me a fair bit less, but in saying that, if going turbo there wouldn't have been the clearance, IAT, or as many issues with traction (setting boost control is simple with a good electronic boost controller and a well place "scramble" button)-( the PD with the biggest and lowest PSI pulley that fits, 85mm, gives 900nm at 2500rpm, which was a issues when trying to launch, or even on a 60kph roll, good for skids, crap to dangerous for everything else), hence the requirement for the RaceTCS)
Food for thought for anyone thinking of going PD
But, I believe thermal spacers and a HTV2300 fits under the bonnet of a VF
Tag your it
@VF Sleeper
He is the man you need to talk to, he has a PD on a VF SS
