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yeah sort out the timing man... buy a timing light and a manual and learn how to use it if you dont.
Timing light sensor lead on spark lead for cylinder 1(arrow on sensor lead should be following lead to spark plug end, other wise timing light will no flash)
Positive power for timing light goes on positive battery post
Negative lead on timing gun on neg battery post or any grounded metal in bay.
Keeping aware that all leads clear the fan and engine drive belts.
Loosen dizzy adjustment nut so dizzy can be moved with a little resistance.
Making sure harmonic balencer timing marks are clean.
Shine the timing gun down on balencer and timing mark on lower timing cover u will see which marks on balencer line up when cylinder 1 fires.(vacuum assisted dizzy need to have vac line removed)
Far left mark on the dirty 30 is "0" degrees and each notch moving right is 5 degree increments
Dirty 30 is
factory 15 degrees so the 4th mark from left should be flashing inline with timing cover mark. If its not move dizzy accordingly to line it up. Then tighten.
Engine idling Is easier but if it doesnt start u can do it while cranking to get it ball park. Then fine tune once idling
Why would u think that?
They Move a **** load faster and have explosions in them all the time it's running..... More so overworking the starter motor
Jake....... Lol
Awesome as, cheers for that man!
I was thinking, would all this cranking be doing any damage to my cylinders?