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voltage not reaching ignition coils

commodoredave

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engine cranks but current is not getting to the ignition coils. Coils are new and pass multi-meter test.
all fuses and relays are good.
all electricals function such as fan, lights instrument panels, wiper etc,
battery is good.
fuel pump and Fuel injectors are good.

what could the problem be? Would a faulty crank angle sensor do this ????
 

jeepster

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Yes crank angle sensors are common problem, especially when it is 40 degrees in summer.
Also check the plug that goes into the DFI module. Is it cracked? Are there burnt or bent contacts?
 

Lex

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engine cranks but current is not getting to the ignition coils. Coils are new and pass multi-meter test.
all fuses and relays are good.
all electricals function such as fan, lights instrument panels, wiper etc,
battery is good.
fuel pump and Fuel injectors are good.

what could the problem be? Would a faulty crank angle sensor do this ????
Got petrol?
 

brett10

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checking DFI module under the coil packs would be a good start. Make sure the module is getting power and earth. Undo the 7mm bolt and pull back the harness. The far left wire (closest to the front of car is 12v power for the module, pink wire from memory). With ign on you should see 12v at that wire with a multimeter (multimeter earth to batt earth).
Also need to check if the module is getting an earth. put red multimeter wire on the pos batt terminal, and put the black multimeter wire on the fifth wire from the left - black wire (on the dfi wiring connector).
The module supplies power to the coils and both the cam and crank sensor.
The module sends power to the crank sensor, this sends a signal back to fire the coils (primary current). Once engine fires the ECM takes over the spark timing and it runs the coils - thru the module.
 
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commodoredave

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checking DFI module under the coil packs would be a good start. Make sure the module is getting power and earth. Undo the 7mm bolt and pull back the harness. The far left wire (closest to the front of car is 12v power for the module, pink wire from memory). With ign on you should see 12v at that wire with a multimeter (multimeter earth to batt earth).
Also need to check if the module is getting an earth. put red multimeter wire on the pos batt terminal, and put the black multimeter wire on the fifth wire from the left - black wire (on the dfi wiring connector).
The module supplies power to the coils and both the cam and crank sensor.
The module sends power to the crank sensor, this sends a signal back to fire the coils (primary current). Once engine fires the ECM takes over the spark timing and it runs the coils - thru the module.
Many thanks for the detailed reply. Could the ignition switch be the cause? Power is not getting to the DFI but all the writing seems good, earth is good. Maybe power is not getting to the crank sensor thus firing order is corrupted ? Troubleshooting and grasping here I know but your post is a big help.
 

lout

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is this the same car that got fried with wrong relay
 

brett10

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The ignition switch can sometimes be a problem if the connections or contact points on the switch are pitted, corroded, burnt, or anything else that could decrease the power going out of the switch. If you have 12.5 volts at the battery, and the ign switch is faulty, you might be getting a lower voltage on the other side of the switch, maybe not enough to operate the computer. Many cars have a fail safe that if the battery voltage drops below a certain level the computer will shut off to protect itself. Usually around 11.5 volts.
To check the crank angle sensor you need to back probe the crank sensor wires at the dfi module. The 2 wires on each side of the 7mm bolt at the module are the 18x and 3x wires. Black wire on the multimeter goes to battery earth, the red wire goes to either the 18x or 3x wire. With the ignition on, turn the motor over by hand (ratchet and socket) and you should see battery voltage at the connector flash on and off as the reluctor ring on the back of the balancer passes over the crank sensor. 18 times per full 360 degree rotation (18x signal), and 3 times per full rotation (3x signal). No voltage reading or constant voltage that doesn't change shows a faulty sensor.
**Before you start this test make sure the pull the fuel relay to prevent the car accidentally starting when your turning it over.
An even easier way to see if the sensor is working is to hold the injectors when the car is being turned over by the starter motor. You will feel them click. Or plug a noid light onto the injector wiring.
Also Is the immobiliser light off when cranking ?
 
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krusing

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lout

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fried wiring under fusebox
 

vc commodore

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