Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

VS #4 V6 T Build Log

Draimond

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
285
Reaction score
260
Points
63
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VS V6 Executive
Done:
  • Finish rust repair and clean more.
  • Respray engine bay.
  • Rear main seal.
  • Swap to modded sump.
  • Make new starter motor cables.
  • Install big injectors.
  • Polished plenum and misc alloy bits.
  • Re-sleeved thermo fan wiring.
Work in progress:
  • Install new sensors.
  • Plumb Turbo - oil and water.
Cancelled work:
  • Make a custom oil dipstick to suit turbo placement.
I've managed to shape the factory tube well enough that it clears the dump and I can still pull the dip stick out.
  • Add AN fitting to rad for turbo water drain back.
Thinking about trying to get this on the thermostat housing or something.

To do list:
  • Catch can needs a drain plug.
  • Paint k-frame, sway brackets, brake booster bracket and catch can in 2k black.
  • Finish engine wiring harness.
  • Add new fuses and relays.
  • Replace cooked oem wiring.
  • Replace 2x BCM connectors in engine bay with 1x DT12 pin. (May require dash out)
  • Make custom knock sensor bolts.
  • Finish turbo manifold mods.
  • Make intercooler pipework.
  • Finish LS coil bracket, install coils.
  • Mod spark plug cables to suit LS coils.
  • Mount Turbo OPR.
  • Install wideband controller.
  • Install new fuel pump, upgrade wiring, move fuse and relay to boot, make / buy a relay / power distribution box in boot.
  • Install body gauge.
  • Engine back in.
  • Swap auto for manual shifter.
  • Clutch and flywheel install. (New bolts?)
  • Install T5 transmission and make wiring.
Parts needed:
  • Flex Fuel Sensor.
  • Blow of valve.
  • More wires and connectors.
  • Intake air temp sensor.
  • AN4 aluminium hard line.
  • Flywheel bolts. (Lost mine in the chaos)
Need to find out:
  • Cam and Crank sensor - 5V or 12V? 5v yeah?
  • Engine light wire comes from PCM? Runs across under the dash?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240307_203909_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg
    IMG_20240307_203909_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg
    381 KB · Views: 31
  • Compress_20240307_204119_9860.jpg
    Compress_20240307_204119_9860.jpg
    233.6 KB · Views: 35
  • PXL_20240221_035657949.jpg
    PXL_20240221_035657949.jpg
    340.8 KB · Views: 35
Last edited:

Draimond

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
285
Reaction score
260
Points
63
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VS V6 Executive
Engines back in, managed to mark the brand new engine bay paint when I dropped a tool on the chassis rail.

Had a go at doing hardlines for the first time, fairly happy with how it all came out.
Im not sure where to run the water return line from the turbo... thermostat housing after the thermostat? maybe weld an AN6 port onto the rad... idk.

So much to do still, so many parts I still need to buy. I miss driving it.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240318_063231412.jpg
    PXL_20240318_063231412.jpg
    451.6 KB · Views: 35
  • PXL_20240318_063439621.jpg
    PXL_20240318_063439621.jpg
    418.8 KB · Views: 35
  • PXL_20240318_043410736.jpg
    PXL_20240318_043410736.jpg
    270.4 KB · Views: 36
  • PXL_20240318_044755004.jpg
    PXL_20240318_044755004.jpg
    232 KB · Views: 35
  • PXL_20240318_021649787.jpg
    PXL_20240318_021649787.jpg
    280.6 KB · Views: 33
  • PXL_20240318_063418815.jpg
    PXL_20240318_063418815.jpg
    224.7 KB · Views: 34

07GTS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2013
Messages
5,003
Reaction score
6,685
Points
113
Location
Australia
Members Ride
VEGTS BUILT BLOWN E85
see if u can use the natural flow of the water system to feed thru the turbo also ?
 

Draimond

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
285
Reaction score
260
Points
63
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VS V6 Executive
see if u can use the natural flow of the water system to feed thru the turbo also ?
I think I have... Garrett have a brief write up about how the turbos water ports should be connected, which I think I've followed. Apparently the best way to know that you've nailed it is once the car's been running and it's hot, when you turn it off, if you have a close listen you can still hear water flowing even though the engine's off. Something about the hot side wanting to move to cold.
 

Immortality

Can't live without smoky bacon!
Staff member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
22,641
Reaction score
20,541
Points
113
Location
Sth Auck, NZ
Members Ride
HSV VS Senator, VX Calais II L67
I'd run the turbo water return to either the thermostat housing or straight to the radiator, no point dumping that heat into the motor.
 

Immortality

Can't live without smoky bacon!
Staff member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
22,641
Reaction score
20,541
Points
113
Location
Sth Auck, NZ
Members Ride
HSV VS Senator, VX Calais II L67
Seeing as you have the DFI module removed, maybe straight into the bottom half of the thermostat housing (it looks like there is a lot of room there), I think there is plenty of meat in that casting to drill and tap and it would be a fairly straight shot from the turbo looking at the pics. done this way, the turbo heat will help with the warm up cycle on the engine and dump the heat straight to the radiator when the thermostat opens.
 

Draimond

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
285
Reaction score
260
Points
63
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VS V6 Executive
I'd run the turbo water return to either the thermostat housing or straight to the radiator, no point dumping that heat into the motor.
Yeah that's what I said just up this page a bit. Not sure which one to go with tho.
Have a zoom in on this photo, I've taken the factory coolant temp sensors spot for the turbos water feed and added a temp pressure combo sensor inline.
Took this pic today after finishing the oil pressure reg mounting. Amazing how good some heatshrink makes a bit of scrap tin look. That ugly grey bracket is getting painted black once I decide if cutting chunks out of it will make it look nicer. Over did it on the radiused edges.

I don't think the thermostat housing (post thermostat) would come out clean for the water return. That spout isn't a very big area and I feel like the flow wouldn't be great any time the thermostat is cracked open.

It's probably going to be the rad, begrudgingly. I don't want more long hoses. Already have a bunch.

Speaking of adding hoses, I'm planning on sending the power steering return line over to the radiator. I've got an existing auto rad and a manual transmission going in. Just need to work out how to hide the hoses.
 

Attachments

  • Compress_20240319_153908_8022.jpg
    Compress_20240319_153908_8022.jpg
    266.7 KB · Views: 21

Immortality

Can't live without smoky bacon!
Staff member
Joined
Apr 15, 2006
Messages
22,641
Reaction score
20,541
Points
113
Location
Sth Auck, NZ
Members Ride
HSV VS Senator, VX Calais II L67
I see now. I would have used that as the return as that is the location of the hottest coolant in the engine.

If you go straight to the radiator you'll need to go to the far side/top hose.

It's a shame the factory heater hose fittings are on the opposite side of the engine as using those would have been the easiest option.

Fortunately my Turbo is only oil cooled so I don't have to consider this problem.
 

Lex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
5,887
Reaction score
5,253
Points
113
Location
Geelong Victoria
Members Ride
VT Executive S1 V6 6 speed Auto Wagon
Yeah that's what I said just up this page a bit. Not sure which one to go with tho.
Have a zoom in on this photo, I've taken the factory coolant temp sensors spot for the turbos water feed and added a temp pressure combo sensor inline.
Took this pic today after finishing the oil pressure reg mounting. Amazing how good some heatshrink makes a bit of scrap tin look. That ugly grey bracket is getting painted black once I decide if cutting chunks out of it will make it look nicer. Over did it on the radiused edges.

I don't think the thermostat housing (post thermostat) would come out clean for the water return. That spout isn't a very big area and I feel like the flow wouldn't be great any time the thermostat is cracked open.

It's probably going to be the rad, begrudgingly. I don't want more long hoses. Already have a bunch.

Speaking of adding hoses, I'm planning on sending the power steering return line over to the radiator. I've got an existing auto rad and a manual transmission going in. Just need to work out how to hide the hoses.
Have you thought of getting some steel tube, the size of the top hose ( steel tube is now a hose joiner). Drill a hole in it the joiner the size you need for the return turbo water hose. Slash cut the correct barb fitting, so it lines up with the return turbo water hose.

Now weld the barb to the hose joiner. Have flare the hose joiner (if not already done).
Hose clamps & hopefully your done?
 

Draimond

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
285
Reaction score
260
Points
63
Location
Brisbane
Members Ride
VS V6 Executive
Have you thought of getting some steel tube, the size of the top hose ( steel tube is now a hose joiner). Drill a hole in it the joiner the size you need for the return turbo water hose. Slash cut the correct barb fitting, so it lines up with the return turbo water hose.

Now weld the barb to the hose joiner. Have flare the hose joiner (if not already done).
Hose clamps & hopefully your done?
Yes, about a year ago and I bought the aluminum 90° mandrel bend tube just in case that ended up being the plan. Hahaha
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lex
Top