VT knock/rattle noise in drive

[Glaze]

Its not your hand break. Have you enough/ to much auto fluid. Have you removed the battery. Have you removed the pcm fuse. What you have posted is about a number of issue. Fresh auto fluid and new filter can change the response in change. Even auto fluid of different brands does this. How long between auto and engine oil change will change the efficiency of both. Engine at 5k, Auto at 5-7k diff also. I guarantee you if something isnt already worn or clogged you car will function more efficiently.

Just checked trans fluid in park idle the level is way above the crosshatch ffs can I pump it out from the dip stick filler or I gotta remove the pan again and let some drain out..? I’ve always used Castrol dexron 3 changed at 170xxx then at 190xxx for a decent clean around. Always changed engine oil every 5k. Haven’t done diff yet need to do it soon.

Took negative lead off battery for a reset. Also I got my brother to sit in the car and change through gears as I was watching the block - resulted in the block shaking pretty rough on the driver side from park to reverse or any gear from or to drive, could this be engine mount problem which could also cause a shaky idle? Cheers

 

[gohrdrgomad]

Just checked trans fluid in park idle the level is way above the crosshatch ffs can I pump it out from the dip stick filler or I gotta remove the pan again and let some drain out..? I’ve always used Castrol dexron 3 changed at 170xxx then at 190xxx for a decent clean around. Always changed engine oil every 5k. Haven’t done diff yet need to do it soon.

Took negative lead off battery for a reset. Also I got my brother to sit in the car and change through gears as I was watching the block - resulted in the block shaking pretty rough on the driver side from park to reverse or any gear from or to drive, could this be engine mount problem which could also cause a shaky idle? Cheers

you might be able to vacume it out with some clear tube like vacume hose and something as simple as a 60 ml seringe for example. Feed the hose down the filler tube suck out the fluid 60 ml at a time. 20 k on the fluid and filter isn't good in my opinion, 10 k max. The car can loose its idle learn when you disconnect the battery, take to the auto elec or holden service or a tuner for example. The shaky idle is the engine not running correct l can only guess if it was ok before disconnection, now shakeup more chance the comp has lost idle learn calibration and this does affect the transmission and shift also. I'm
No mechanic!!!

 

[gohrdrgomad]

Just checked trans fluid in park idle the level is way above the crosshatch ffs can I pump it out from the dip stick filler or I gotta remove the pan again and let some drain out..? I’ve always used Castrol dexron 3 changed at 170xxx then at 190xxx for a decent clean around. Always changed engine oil every 5k. Haven’t done diff yet need to do it soon.

Took negative lead off battery for a reset. Also I got my brother to sit in the car and change through gears as I was watching the block - resulted in the block shaking pretty rough on the driver side from park to reverse or any gear from or to drive, could this be engine mount problem which could also cause a shaky idle? Cheers

you need to consider that the converter inside holds litres of trans fluid so when you drain and change a filter all the 20k old oil isn't removed. When you refill and drive you have a 50-50 mix for example of new and burnt. Your new oil is diluted and contaminated and wont last. Shorter service intervals for cleaner better performing oil, or a dubble flush.Your just damaging the auto.

 

[Glaze]

you might be able to vacume it out with some clear tube like vacume hose and something as simple as a 60 ml seringe for example. Feed the hose down the filler tube suck out the fluid 60 ml at a time. 20 k on the fluid and filter isn't good in my opinion, 10 k max. The car can loose its idle learn when you disconnect the battery, take to the auto elec or holden service or a tuner for example. The shaky idle is the engine not running correct l can only guess if it was ok before disconnection, now shakeup more chance the comp has lost idle learn calibration and this does affect the transmission and shift also. I'm
No mechanic!!!

Fair enough the battery reset made minimal changes I reckon trans fluid being overfull is contributing to this also would it be necessary to change the engine mounts. I might change the thermostat first and get the trans fluid at correct level and see where I am from there

Cheers heaps!

 

[devilly]

Just break the trans line at the radiator. It slowly streams out from here then do it up and check then undo to release more fluid that's how I did it just make sure you do back up firm go for a drive and then do it up again Try injection cleaner in the fuel give it a few runs see if makes any difference.

 

[Glaze]

hey Mate are these the cooler lines coming out of the radiator? Heard they’re a terrible experience to get them off any tips? I’ve used injector cleaner couple times only gave smoother starts I gotta change my o2 sensors for better economy asap do the VTs have 2 or 3 btw? Cheers

 

[devilly]

Yup there the ones you break and let the fluid out of, I have a spare gearbox so I just worked out the correct way to undo before touching my car. then tool on and hammer to crack it a bit then two tools to loosen it was how I did it. could check out wrecking yard to know for sure which way to turn. and wd40 night before helped heaps o2 sensors have 2 for each pipe. good luck

 

[Glaze]

Thanks for that mate will try that I’ve also uploaded a vid on YouTube that has the sound more prominent after the halfway mark hopefully members can help me after hearing the actual rattling during idle in drive

 

[gohrdrgomad]

Bloke the vid u posted isn't much help at all. Maybee beast to start the car on ramps and have a good look n listen. It could be mounts, but unless you fisicly check em anyone's just guessn honestly. It could be the exhaust for e.g... maybe best to put on a hoist let someone experienced find the issues to be on the safe side.

 

[Glaze]

Update: finally got time to change engine oil was overdue by about 1000. Used Castrol gtx 20w50 this time thought to go with the standard, car warmed up much faster and idled well. The rough vibrations and knocking noise while in drive gear seemed to disappear beginning to think the brakes are causing this effect as it really vibrated bad when I applied the brakes but after driving a bit brakes made no change. Ultimately I think because the car was warmer and the temp remained consistent it could’ve resolved the issue. However looking under the car while the oil was draining I found some ATF oil just behind the transmission pan like on the centre bearing of the drive shaft. I also noticed the passenger side engine mount had both of its screws portruding out so they are way past it’s lifespan. I reckon engine mounts being stuffed is causing the issue but it’s weird how the rougher idle is only when the car is in drive gear without brakes applied also the temp gauge sits on the first notch anything under the car will vibrate bad in drive. The power steering pump reservoir and it’s hoses are leaking so not sure if another entry for air is causing idle problems will keep updates anyway Cheers