VX LS1 or LS3

[Arthursbenders]

If you have a VX LS1 I believe these came with the LS6 intake manifold which are better flowing than the LS1 intake (which my VT has). Take a look at the FAST LSX (92mm TB) or LSXR (102m TB) intake manifolds if you want a decent upgrade. There are carb intakes (see Edelbrock Victor Jr.) if you prefer but you generally need to mess around with the hood to make it fit.

You may have factored this in in already but the LS1 performs much better when it can breathe properly. So consider replacing the airbox with an over-the-radiator (OTR) cold air intake, there are tons to choose from (eg. Duspeed, X-air), as well a good quality full exhaust system.

I agree with DLFHUB666 though. You should strongly consider upgrading/replacing the brake and suspension. That is my priority for my VT before adding power as the factory brakes on these cars are decidedly average even for stock specifications. And well, same as I have been told by members on here, think about how your car will perform if you're running 300kw+ on 17 year old suspension components.

Edit: Yes you will need a tune, perhaps $1000 - $1500 for a custom tune.

Alright I’ll have a look at those, thanks.

It did come with an OTR cold-air and new exhaust so I’m glad I saved a bit of cash there haha

 

[harrop.senator]

Engine mounts
gaskets/seals
head bolts/studs
Main studs if revving the **** out of it balancing rotating assembly
boring and torque plate honing the block align honing if going stud conversion on main caps
Water pump
Oil pump
Dual row timing chain
Pushrods
Lifters
Valve springs and collets
Headers
Cats
Catback
Hi stall torque converter if staying auto
Build auto
Clutch and flywheel if going manual
Tailshaft Guido's
Tailshaft centre bearing
Diff ratio to go with compression and cam selection and minimum tightened LSD.

If it were me I'd just buy a written off or defected manual car with a worked motor with receipts.

Or you can buy reconditioned +1mm LS1 for around 4k no accesoracceor manifolds.

I'd supply them a cam, springs, pushrod , timing chain set and ask them to fit it when they rebuild one for you and deck the heads a bit more then just getting the hollow out of them.

With auto can reliably make 380-410rwhp out of imported heads. And 380-410 with a dirty big stall will make you **** your pants compared to the tired old 200-240atw it would've had. Should go 12 possibly 11 with that power and a good stall and driver.

Or buy a cammed used ls3 with box for $4500 fit it in have the stronger box make 4-450rwhp and if it's not crapped out when you get it it'll do 200ks with those numbers. Or for piece of mind get new bearings fitted if compression test is good an oil pump n call it a day.

 

[Arthursbenders]

Engine mounts
gaskets/seals
head bolts/studs
Main studs if revving the **** out of it balancing rotating assembly
boring and torque plate honing the block align honing if going stud conversion on main caps
Water pump
Oil pump
Dual row timing chain
Pushrods
Lifters
Valve springs and collets
Headers
Cats
Catback
Hi stall torque converter if staying auto
Build auto
Clutch and flywheel if going manual
Tailshaft Guido's
Tailshaft centre bearing
Diff ratio to go with compression and cam selection and minimum tightened LSD.

If it were me I'd just buy a written off or defected manual car with a worked motor with receipts.

Or you can buy reconditioned +1mm LS1 for around 4k no accesoracceor manifolds.

I'd supply them a cam, springs, pushrod , timing chain set and ask them to fit it when they rebuild one for you and deck the heads a bit more then just getting the hollow out of them.

With auto can reliably make 380-410rwhp out of imported heads. And 380-410 with a dirty big stall will make you **** your pants compared to the tired old 200-240atw it would've had. Should go 12 possibly 11 with that power and a good stall and driver.

Or buy a cammed used ls3 with box for $4500 fit it in have the stronger box make 4-450rwhp and if it's not crapped out when you get it it'll do 200ks with those numbers. Or for piece of mind get new bearings fitted if compression test is good an oil pump n call it a day.

I’d really like to find a manual LS3 parts car but a) not sure where to really look for one b) can’t see any around for less than 10/15K

Would like to end up with 400kw atw with enough reliability to get around 200,000km out of motor and gearbox

 

[monstar]

Nah mate, you are not gonna end up with 400 kw atw even with an LS9.
How about an L76 for $5k, swap LS3 cam ($100), swap out deac ($1000). 400 hp reliable right there. Plenty on eBay.

 

[Arthursbenders]

Nah mate, you are not gonna end up with 400 kw atw even with an LS9.
How about an L76 for $5k, swap LS3 cam ($100), swap out deac ($1000). 400 hp reliable right there. Plenty on eBay.

400rwkw is do-able with an LS1 as I’ve seen it in person and on threads here on just commodore.

Just a verifiable example;
http://driftcat.com/about/vehicle/

And I’m looking to keep this car as a weekend car in the future so will happily put more money into it over the years, as previously stated because I like the look/feel of the car.

 

[vr304]

Ls3 with a head and cam package would most likely **** on a stroked ls1

 

[monstar]

400rwkw is do-able with an LS1 as I’ve seen it in person and on threads here on just commodore.

Just a verifiable example;
http://driftcat.com/about/vehicle/

And I’m looking to keep this car as a weekend car in the future so will happily put more money into it over the years, as previously stated because I like the look/feel of the car.

You did ask for us to mention where you go wrong as is your first post, well I think the members genuinely trying to help you had no idea that you are building a twin turbo supercar.
400 rwkw or ~700 fwkw sustainable is hideously expensive, and not something any race engineeer I know would claim.
Definitely neither of those engines would handle the power without reinforcing components of the block plus the best rotating components as a starting point, if money were no object, like $40k-$70k. Sure I know one member here - an ex race driver who is financially independent - has spent at least $60k to get an LS1 to ~400rwkw. But is his Frankenstein is technically an LSx.
To give you an engineering target, for the filled LS1 reworked with Darton sleeves and stroked to 427 you still need forced induction to build sustainable peak cylinder pressure of around 3000 psi, 21 bar BMEP, and engineered to rev past 7000 rpm.
He is constantly spending thousands a week on his car. Yeah yours with twin turbos would go like a rocket, coz turbo, but as risky as a space launch.
Good luck with your dreams and setting a realistic budget, to infinity and beyond.
EDIT: If you set your target 10% lower I’d recommend an LS3 on e85 with VVT for $40k less.

 

[Arthursbenders]

You did ask for us to mention where you go wrong as is your first post, well I think the members genuinely trying to help you had no idea that you are building a twin turbo supercar.
400 rwkw or ~700 fwkw sustainable is hideously expensive, and not something any race engineeer I know would claim.
Definitely neither of those engines would handle the power without reinforcing components of the block plus the best rotating components as a starting point, if money were no object, like $40k-$70k. Sure I know one member here - an ex race driver who is financially independent - has spent at least $60k to get an LS1 to ~400rwkw. But is his Frankenstein is technically an LSx.
To give you an engineering target, for the filled LS1 reworked with Darton sleeves and stroked to 427 you still need forced induction to build sustainable peak cylinder pressure of around 3000 psi, 21 bar BMEP, and engineered to rev past 7000 rpm.
He is constantly spending thousands a week on his car. Yeah yours with twin turbos would go like a rocket, coz turbo, but as risky as a space launch.
Good luck with your dreams and setting a realistic budget, to infinity and beyond.
EDIT: If you set your target 10% lower I’d recommend an LS3 on e85 with VVT for $40k less.

That was just a 5 second google just in case he thought it would never get done and yeah of course I understand that it’ll cost a **** tonne for it but, I could totally see 40k+ in over the next 30 years as I’m already willing to spend up to 15 in the first year to build the car up to be capable of handling high power.

My neighbours spent easily over 90k over the years solely because he likes the look of the car and was his first project car. That’s what I’m looking to do because that just sounds like an awesome thing for me to be able to show in 50+ years when I’m in my 70’s.

If I can find a worked motor LS1 or LS3 for **** all I’ll of course pick it up, I’m not going to turn down a good opportunity because that would be stupid obviously.

Edit: I Want engine and transmission to handle taking more before I think of supercharger or turbo(s). If getting those power figures will be definitively easier with an LS3 then for sure I won’t upgrade the LS1 and I’ll just spend time looking around for a decent one that isn’t expensive and possibly worked.

 

[VS 5.0]

Sure I know one member here - an ex race driver who is financially independent - has spent at least $60k to get an LS1 to ~400rwkw.

Who dat @monstar ?

 

[harrop.senator]

That was just a 5 second google just in case he thought it would never get done and yeah of course I understand that it’ll cost a **** tonne for it but, I could totally see 40k+ in over the next 30 years as I’m already willing to spend up to 15 in the first year to build the car up to be capable of handling high power.

My neighbours spent easily over 90k over the years solely because he likes the look of the car and was his first project car. That’s what I’m looking to do because that just sounds like an awesome thing for me to be able to show in 50+ years when I’m in my 70’s.

If I can find a worked motor LS1 or LS3 for **** all I’ll of course pick it up, I’m not going to turn down a good opportunity because that would be stupid obviously.

Edit: I Want engine and transmission to handle taking more before I think of supercharger or turbo(s). If getting those power figures will be definitively easier with an LS3 then for sure I won’t upgrade the LS1 and I’ll just spend time looking around for a decent one that isn’t expensive and possibly worked.

A properly built motor for boost goes like poo without the boost.

400rwkw with boost is a lot more obtainable guys are going 600rwhp on stock block ls1s in the states before they blow up and swapping anothra stock one in lol.

Know nothing about the oiling differences or internal strength differences in parts you'd keep . But I'd just stay LS1 and barely use any LS1 parts.

I don't think the crank snaps on them without a big belt driven charger so if turbo may just be rods, pistons, ring gap, studs and bolts everywhere , turbo grind camshaft and a metal intake manifold.

Add holset and boost call it a day.

In racing classis a turbo charger or supercharger adds half the displacement of the motor again to what it can be ran with n/a to put it in perspective of how much easier a goal is once boost is fed.

I reckon a single hx52 or 55 will go 400+kw kW at about 14 psi which theirs guys running stock blocks at..

It's going to change where you spend money but it's definitely more doable for 15k then na.

I chose 700ish rwhp for the goal of my 461ci Pontiac motor cause I can have flex fuel switchable EFI and a turbo charger for about the same price as 500whp out of a 502 ci stroker kit with less reliability.