VY tailshaft question.

[desertdance]

Hi there, I'm trying to replace a stuffed centre bearing on a 2003 VY V6 auto ute.
When attempting to split the shaft it moves about 3mm and then won't budge any further. Are these the non serviceable jobs?
Or am I doing or not doing something?
Thanks, Mark

 

[losh1971]

How are you removing the centre bearing? The hammer method will ruin your uni. Best to take it to a balancing shop and have them do the. work. A new member used the hammer method recently and now has problems. I suspect he has wrecked the uni as he did the YouTube hammer and chisel way.

 

[desertdance]

Thanks mate. It seems like the 4sp auto is non -serviceable. The uni joints are not retained with circlips but are peened over, which leads me to believe the tailshaft is a non-serviceable item. Boo-Hiss! I should have kept the trusty HJ 1 Tonner!
Now it's a $800 tailshaft because of a $40 bearing failure. I think it's beer o'clock...

 

[M#ick2183]

Thanks mate. It seems like the 4sp auto is non -serviceable. The uni joints are not retained with circlips but are peened over, which leads me to believe the tailshaft is a non-serviceable item. Boo-Hiss! I should have kept the trusty HJ 1 Tonner!
Now it's a $800 tailshaft because of a $40 bearing failure. I think it's beer o'clock...

I took mine to a driveline shop think it was about 170 for a new tailshaft centre bearing put it, hasn't been a problem since

 

[desertdance]

Was that going into a VY 6 cyl 4sp auto?
It seems that the manual, 5 sp auto and v8 variants are rebuildable.
Further to all this, it appears that different tailshafts were used in sedans, wagons, utes, 1 tonners etc.
I've phoned around to driveline shops (Coffs, Newcastle& Sydney) and the story is the same: about cutting off/replacing yokes, replacing unis, rebalancing etc which is upwards of $1100. They are all saying that it's cheaper just to replace the shaft. (Then take to the old shaft with a cut off wheel and have 2 good cheater bars!)

 

[losh1971]

There are only a handful of places in Australia who can do these shafts. It does not involve cutting off the unis. It requires a specialist shop, which is why most places cannot do them.

On late Commodores the unis last a long time as they don't move much compared to earlier girls. The bearing is replace its just that not many places do them.

 

[figjam]

As you are on 'Mid North Coast" ......... tried Hardy Spicer. 2 Canavan Dr, Beresfield. 02 4964 4955 ?

 

[desertdance]

no, but I will for sure

 

[M#ick2183]

Was that going into a VY 6 cyl 4sp auto?
It seems that the manual, 5 sp auto and v8 variants are rebuildable.
Further to all this, it appears that different tailshafts were used in sedans, wagons, utes, 1 tonners etc.
I've phoned around to driveline shops (Coffs, Newcastle& Sydney) and the story is the same: about cutting off/replacing yokes, replacing unis, rebalancing etc which is upwards of $1100. They are all saying that it's cheaper just to replace the shaft. (Then take to the old shaft with a cut off wheel and have 2 good cheater bars!)

vt V6 wagon auto I got new unis with nipples put in also while they where at it,as was chasing a vibration/noise, turned out to be diff bearing, I supplied all the parts they fitted them in a few hours,

 

[Hole Denn]

Hi there, I'm trying to replace a stuffed centre bearing on a 2003 VY V6 auto ute.
When attempting to split the shaft it moves about 3mm and then won't budge any further. Are these the non serviceable jobs?
Or am I doing or not doing something?
Thanks, Mark

Sounds like the spring clip inside the hidden middle spline part of shaft is sticking/seized, put front shaft flat on bench with uni end in soft claws/vice firmly and tap slowly/evenly the diff end of shaft with any wood/plastic with hammer, don”t forget to mark the 2 shafts for phasing whole shaft together for reassembling, also mark the inner splines to be sure.

Place front shaft hanging down secured by stuffed bearing in vice and with brass drift slowly tap spline a few times making shaft fall down out of stuffed centre bearing.
Then securely clamp same shaft in soft jaws/vice by uni joint and slowly tap new bearing down on shaft and lastly with a brass drift tap inside metal bearing race to bottom out bearing on front shaft. Molybdenum grease spline shaft and spring clip on end and insert diff end of shaft with correct marks on spline, then using same tools slowly hammer shaft down until shaft flange covers new bearing race and your done.

Also a good time to replace rubber donuts at each end.