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Wanna move the battery to the boot

ssute57l

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Don't run the cables inside the car as these high current cables have no fuse protection, running them along the inside is a very big fire hazard in the event of a short ar acco (interior and carpet will burn fast and toxic).
Run them under the car in a tubing on the opposite side of the fuel and brake lines and not cable tied to these lines,
You can run them on the higher side of the chassis and they wont get pinched by speed humps etc (this is also shorter and reduces voltage drop).

Earth to chassis/ chassis to block is ok provided they are clean and secure and of good size, slight corrosion may make starting hard so use a preventative on it for best results
 

garfa

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ssute57l said:
Don't run the cables inside the car as these high current cables have no fuse protection, running them along the inside is a very big fire hazard in the event of a short ar acco (interior and carpet will burn fast and toxic).
Run them under the car in a tubing on the opposite side of the fuel and brake lines and not cable tied to these lines,
You can run them on the higher side of the chassis and they wont get pinched by speed humps etc (this is also shorter and reduces voltage drop).

Earth to chassis/ chassis to block is ok provided they are clean and secure and of good size, slight corrosion may make starting hard so use a preventative on it for best results
um of course they would be fused at the alt and at the battery.
 

ssute57l

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garfa said:
um of course they would be fused at the alt and at the battery.

Yes they would be fused at the alt, but the heavy starter cable will not be,
The alt wiring then runs to starter post and fused by a fusible link of approx 80-120Amps,
When have you seen a starter motor fused ?, never, the current (250 amps+)run direct to the starter from the batt!! that is why this is the most important cable that has to run securely, with limited chances of shorts. The battery has alot CCA (650Amps +) and thats alot of heat in the event of a large cable short and possble battery explosion.
Hope this now makes sense GARFA.
 

yobbo88

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reading some replies in this thread im gonna make an assumption that updating ground wires all over a 23 year old car is a good thing to do no matter what your audio situaiton is yes? if so i have access to some 4 gauge (i think) and looking under my hood none of the wire is thicker than 8 gauge so im thinkin of goin to town under there
 

azkwazere

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Youll need to worry about ventilation and housing etc.... Your better of using overkill wiring as its easier to not have to run it all again.

As for shorts, if you fuse BOTH ends of the wiring, ie, before it hits the terminals and before it connects to other wiring, it will be F-I-N-E!!!!! Thats what my stero setup uses, fuse at both ends... easy.


aZk.
 

garfa

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ssute57l said:
Yes they would be fused at the alt, but the heavy starter cable will not be,
The alt wiring then runs to starter post and fused by a fusible link of approx 80-120Amps,
When have you seen a starter motor fused ?, never, the current (250 amps+)run direct to the starter from the batt!! that is why this is the most important cable that has to run securely, with limited chances of shorts. The battery has alot CCA (650Amps +) and thats alot of heat in the event of a large cable short and possble battery explosion.
Hope this now makes sense GARFA.
um... well why wouldn't the starter cable be fused? that doesn't make sense.
 

Immortality

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Their ain't an automotive fuse big enough to handle the current draw of the starter motor, pop your bonnet and follow the starter wiring, where's the fuse????
 

garfa

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and whats the starter draw? well since it only uses 4 ga then i assume its under 150amps. um... what about an anl fuse? they go all the way to 450 amps, eg 2/0 guage!
 

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i figure somewhere around the 400amps, i'm guessing here but if i use a battery that has less than 400cca (cold cranking amps) i have starting troubles. the other thing to note about electrical motors is that they spike the current when you first apply power to them, thats why in industrial wiring they have what they call "motor rated" fuses which can handle a higher peak current than their rated blowing current
 
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