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Wanna move the battery to the boot

Discussion in 'Electrical Wiring / Questions' started by immortality, Aug 4, 2006.

  1. immortality

    immortality Moderator Staff Member

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    i'm thinking about moving the battery to the boot to create more room under the bonnet and help with weight distribution, whats the best way to run the cables, throught the car or under the car:whistling

    what have other people done out there
     
  2. yobbo88

    yobbo88 Member

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    i'd run cables through the car to avoid damage from stuff on the road etc personally. how big is the battery? weight distribution will be so ridiculously minimal its crazy. the extra room under the hood cant hurt but
     
  3. immortality

    immortality Moderator Staff Member

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    13 plate, 700cca. big battery, i don't like having starting problems. i've had problems with the battery going flat over a period of weeks, got 14 volts at the altenator but the battery slowly looses voltage. so i figured i'd kill 2 bird with one stone and move the battery and rewire to fix the fault. think of fitting a centrifugal supercharger in the future so i need the room under the bonnet.:yeah:
     
  4. SweetWagon

    SweetWagon booosted

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    I dont know how you would tackle the wiring side of things, I would think the cable would be too thick to run on the inside, but i have never tried.

    Which car is this for? There would be no point moving the battery for a supercharger on the holden v6's as they all mount on passenger side of the bay, where the coilpacks go.
     
  5. immortality

    immortality Moderator Staff Member

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    :bang:, sorry 308 VH. got a 4 bbl throttle body injection unit on it run by a link ecu. who ever did the original wiring however stuffed it up big time. the wired the +12v signal for the dizzy from the coil +12v supply:bang: and this was done by a supposed proffesional outfit. 1 week after i got the car back the ecu was fried cause of a loose connection at a relay:bang: cost them a packet they had to send out a flatbed to get it :cry: so it was still sh*t when i got it back, lost 4kw cause they stuffed up the ignition map in the ecu. i cut all the wiring out and starting from scratch. anyway thought maybe somebody would have some ideas where/how to route the cables from the boot
     
  6. yobbo88

    yobbo88 Member

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    through the firewall along the skirting next to the doors (down the side you want the battery on) under the back seats if its a sedan and to the battery... there are a few well placed gromets in the firewall that you can use its not hard... i had my amp wired with 4 gauge in around 10 mins in my VH
     
  7. MontieVHSL/E

    MontieVHSL/E New Member

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    i did this with my car and ran the cable under the car.. ran them in the same route that the fuel lines took on the other side of the car. i put the cable into conduit and used metal cable brackets to hold it to the body, also where the cable ran through the body into the boot i used silicon to hold it in place so it wouldnt rub. the only prob i think is that i gets rather close to the extractors.. but i have had it in there for about 6 months and no sign that is being affected..
    personaly i would think it to be safer to run the cable under the car than through the firewall and under and through everything, you dont want that sucker shorting out.
    hope that helps
     
  8. yobbo88

    yobbo88 Member

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    shorting out would be bad yeah under the car may be safer.. depends what you have to attach it to... either way sounds fine to me as long as you take your time and find a safe path for it
     
  9. garfa

    garfa New Member

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    run the bad boy through the car near the skirting boards or along the tranny tunnel. as for the size of the coble get a current clamp and measure the max currewnt drawn (when starting) and then add say 20-30% on top and choose a cable able to handle that load.
     
  10. immortality

    immortality Moderator Staff Member

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    i'm going to be using 50mm2 welding flex cable, it has much finner strands then regular cable and can handle higher currents and it is also double insulated. i think i might try through the car first. whats best for the earth side of things, run it's own cable and earth it on the block or just earth the battery to the chassis and a big chassis to block earth as well?:thumbsup:
     
  11. ssute57l

    ssute57l New Member

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    Don't run the cables inside the car as these high current cables have no fuse protection, running them along the inside is a very big fire hazard in the event of a short ar acco (interior and carpet will burn fast and toxic).
    Run them under the car in a tubing on the opposite side of the fuel and brake lines and not cable tied to these lines,
    You can run them on the higher side of the chassis and they wont get pinched by speed humps etc (this is also shorter and reduces voltage drop).

    Earth to chassis/ chassis to block is ok provided they are clean and secure and of good size, slight corrosion may make starting hard so use a preventative on it for best results
     
  12. garfa

    garfa New Member

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    um of course they would be fused at the alt and at the battery.
     
  13. jake87

    jake87 New Member

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  14. ssute57l

    ssute57l New Member

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    Yes they would be fused at the alt, but the heavy starter cable will not be,
    The alt wiring then runs to starter post and fused by a fusible link of approx 80-120Amps,
    When have you seen a starter motor fused ?, never, the current (250 amps+)run direct to the starter from the batt!! that is why this is the most important cable that has to run securely, with limited chances of shorts. The battery has alot CCA (650Amps +) and thats alot of heat in the event of a large cable short and possble battery explosion.
    Hope this now makes sense GARFA.
     
  15. yobbo88

    yobbo88 Member

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    reading some replies in this thread im gonna make an assumption that updating ground wires all over a 23 year old car is a good thing to do no matter what your audio situaiton is yes? if so i have access to some 4 gauge (i think) and looking under my hood none of the wire is thicker than 8 gauge so im thinkin of goin to town under there
     
  16. azkwazere

    azkwazere Ahhh Yes, Ahhh Yes....

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    Youll need to worry about ventilation and housing etc.... Your better of using overkill wiring as its easier to not have to run it all again.

    As for shorts, if you fuse BOTH ends of the wiring, ie, before it hits the terminals and before it connects to other wiring, it will be F-I-N-E!!!!! Thats what my stero setup uses, fuse at both ends... easy.


    aZk.
     
  17. garfa

    garfa New Member

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    um... well why wouldn't the starter cable be fused? that doesn't make sense.
     
  18. immortality

    immortality Moderator Staff Member

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    Their ain't an automotive fuse big enough to handle the current draw of the starter motor, pop your bonnet and follow the starter wiring, where's the fuse????
     
  19. garfa

    garfa New Member

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    and whats the starter draw? well since it only uses 4 ga then i assume its under 150amps. um... what about an anl fuse? they go all the way to 450 amps, eg 2/0 guage!
     
  20. immortality

    immortality Moderator Staff Member

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    i figure somewhere around the 400amps, i'm guessing here but if i use a battery that has less than 400cca (cold cranking amps) i have starting troubles. the other thing to note about electrical motors is that they spike the current when you first apply power to them, thats why in industrial wiring they have what they call "motor rated" fuses which can handle a higher peak current than their rated blowing current
     

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