Warm up the beast first !

[Voodoo_SV6]

I used to get over 75c intake temps on my E3 R8 in stopped traffic in the M5 tunnel on a 40c summers day. Now that I have an OTR, I have no idea what that would be now under the same circumstances. I don't drive in in peak hour through that horrible piece of road and it's not 40c at this time of year. It's purely a weekend play toy now

 

[Murdoch]

I used to get over 75c intake temps on my E3 R8 in stopped traffic in the M5 tunnel on a 40c summers day. Now that I have an OTR, I have no idea what that would be now under the same circumstances. I don't drive in in peak hour through that horrible piece of road and it's not 40c at this time of year. It's purely a weekend play toy now

It would still get that hot, just cool down quicker with an OTR now I reckon.
Heat seems to kill power in these things, well it does in mine anyway.

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

It used to crucify my turbo Subaru. The E3, not so much, BUT, I used to go very gentle on the E3 because I remember how lethargic the Subby was.

 

[abuch47]

used to kill my turb a4 as well. cold winter nights felt like double the power

So lower OTR intake air temps are purely about ... what, higher flow &/or a more direct path meaning a lower percentage of the intake air mass ‘swirling’ against the heated walls of the intake?

yep and dirk mentioned max CFM that can be used in N/A LS application is easily reached by Orssom, VCM and most likely ramjet intakes

 

[07GTS]

heat only affects the engine as bad as the ecu calibration will command it, many people say that heat removes timing and ur engine looses power BUT thats factory so if u can run 10-20 deg hotter IAT and it still causes no issues (knock ect) then why keep it TOO safe and remove timing, adjust it so its still safe but within a more normal scope and u will loose less power thru un-needed timing loss, also for the OTR just put a thermal mat on the top of the radiator covering it and the OTR wont heat up and u can also wrap the coolant hose so it dosnt radiate heat also it all helps

 

[Murdoch]

heat only affects the engine as bad as the ecu calibration will command it, many people say that heat removes timing and ur engine looses power BUT thats factory so if u can run 10-20 deg hotter IAT and it still causes no issues (knock ect) then why keep it TOO safe and remove timing, adjust it so its still safe but within a more normal scope and u will loose less power thru un-needed timing loss, also for the OTR just put a thermal mat on the top of the radiator covering it and the OTR wont heat up and u can also wrap the coolant hose so it dosnt radiate heat also it all helps

Maybe my tune is a safe one.

It would take a lot of logging/tuning to dial in enough advance and different temps before it knocks, more time than most tuners will allow.
Or Is it okay to just let them knock then pull timing....?
I’m no tuner so unsure.

 

[07GTS]

Maybe my tune is a safe one.

It would take a lot of logging/tuning to dial in enough advance and different temps before it knocks, more time than most tuners will allow.
Or Is it okay to just let them knock then pull timing....?
I’m no tuner so unsure.

it can all be simulated on a dyno as the engine only sees a span of its operating temp range, or if u see a 45c day go for a drive and get heat into it and see if its safe if so then u know it is for those temps and if not then adjust it so u keep the timing for other areas but lower it for just that temp area, knock is usually simple to stop and it is all controlled by tables so if it sees a little knock it may take out 10 deg timing which that same spot of knock with 1 deg less timing may not knock so u can adjust it to suit and not remove big amounts of timing for a small knock reading, most of the time u see knock the ecu has already sensed it and removed timing (or its burst knock which is a calculation based on events that MAY cause knock and ecu will remove timing before it even MIGHT happen) if u get knock now and then couple deg its fine and even stock tunes will knock but as long as the tables are set up right so it sees it and removes timing then if its not present after set time its then back to normal timing so that wont cause any issues to engine, if u see knock and it stays present and u know its real then u have an issue

 

[Redline 2017]

What about the other end how long does it take to cool down?
Often have to do short trips and just an hour ago got in after cruising to coolant temp before lunch. Then after lunch was still at water temp but wonder if the oil and intake were ok.

**** I had a whole tray of tools and 1/8th of a tank disappeared in 15kms to work, thought I may get stuck there. sitting on the empty line but took 4 litres less than max so wasnt too bad.

Other crazy thing was could definitely see the heat coming out the bonnet vents which is good to know it works. first time the sunlight has lined it up to be visible.

When driving the car on a cold morning, managed to get some steam coming out of the vents, like dragon breath lol, wish I got some video... But you know, driving.